Turkey – A Traveling Fool

March 15, 2020

Istanbul, Ephesus and an Earthquake

Our first two days on the cruise consisted of stops at Istanbul and Kasudasi (Ephesus) in Turkey. Although I had been on a two week tour of Turkey which included time in both cities just a few years earlier, I was looking forward to returning. I had really enjoyed Turkey when I was there before. It was a great country with friendly people, an amazing history, and some fascinating things to see and do that were quite unique.

I had the option of signing up for tours of my choice or just hanging out in each place on my own. We had set sail for Istanbul as soon as we left Lavion and arrived shortly after breakfast. I had signed up for a tour that included Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

When I had been in Istanbul (formerly Constantinople and, even earlier, Byzantium) the last time, I had been quite ill by the time we were touring those locations. They had also been experiencing a monsoon-like rain while we were at Topkapi Palace which greatly limited my getting around that particular location. This time, the tour began at the Palace.

On my previous visit, I had spent the majority of my time in the harem. I had never seen a harem before and doubted strongly that I would ever get the opportunity to tour one again. This one was famous, enormous, and had been in use from the 15^th century to the early 20^th century. So, armed with a map showing roughly 90 rooms (out of what is believed to be about 400 rooms total) open to the public, I had explored every inch of it that I could. As wonderful as it was to see, I didn’t have much time left to see much else other than the area with the Sacred Relics.

This time, I headed straight for the Imperial Treasury. One of the prize pieces in the treasury was the Topkapi Dagger. This dagger had been made in 1747 by the Sultan Mahmud I for the Shah of Persia. But the Shah was murdered before he could receive his present, so the dagger stayed at the Palace. It was featured in the film Topkapi during which a heist of the dagger took place.

There is also an enormous diamond called the Spoonmaker’s Diamond. Nobody knows the origins of the diamond, but there have been several legends put forth regarding who may have owned and why they parted with it.

The collection holds several more pieces of jewelry, solid gold candlesticks encrusted with diamonds, the throne of Mahmud I (layered with emeralds and pearls), various weapons decorated with jewels, and the right hand and forearm of John the Baptist encased in gold.

With all of the pieces of him that seem to be on display around the world, I wonder how much of John the Baptist could be left in the tomb that was supposedly his in Egypt. This is one of three alleged right hand and forearms of John in existence and the number of heads claimed by different places as his is staggering.

On my previous visit, I had gone into the part of the Palace containing the Sacred Relics. Most of them had to do with Muhammad, but there was also a room that contained what were reported to be Abraham’s Pot, Joseph’s Turban, Moses’ Staff, and David’s Sword.

This time I didn’t have nearly as much time at Topkapi as during the previous visit, so I wandered around the different courtyards and spent a little time sitting out on the terrace that overlooked the Bosphorus before I needed to rejoin the rest of the group for lunch.

After lunch, we sort of waved at the Hippodrome as we went by on our way to the Blue Mosque. We didn’t stay there long either. But the interior with its tiles and domes is the main thing to see.

Onwards to Hagia Sophia with which I had fallen madly in love when I was last in Istanbul. Built in 532-537 AD over an earlier 4^th century church, the building survived many earthquakes over the centuries and the Ottomans as well. Instead of destroying the church, the Ottomans simply covered up the mosaics and turned it into a mosque. Now that the building is a museum, the mosaics have been uncovered and they are glorious.

This trip, we didn’t have any free time in Hagia Sophia to be able to go exploring on our own, so I didn’t get to go up the ramp to the gallery. Instead of stairs, the building still has its original 1500 year old ramps to enable movement from floor to floor. I had really felt like I was traveling back in time with those ancient ramps and felt sad that I didn’t have the time to revisit them or the wonderful mosaics in the gallery.

One of my dream trips would be to return to Istanbul, spend a lot of time at the Hagia Sophia and maybe tour the harem again. Then take the Orient Express from Istanbul to Venice, spending some time in Venice before heading home.

From Hagia Sophia, we continued to the Grand Bazaar. I would have preferred to stay at Hagia Sophia, but…. It was not nearly as crowded or higgledy-piggledy as the one in Cairo had been. It was more shops than stalls. I had really loaded myself up with Turkish tchotchkes on my prior trip. So, other than a small package of pistachio Turkish Delight, I refrained.

Our little group of seven sat together at dinner again. Then we went to the show. It was a rock’n’roll show which might have been why we missed the earthquake. Honestly, there was a 6.9 magnitude (severe) earthquake in the Aegean between Greece and Turkey at roughly 9:30pm. Canakkale (where ancient Troy was located) suffered quite a bit of damage and a couple hundred injuries. There were buildings destroyed and people injured all over Greece and Turkey (and even some in Bulgaria).

We were heading to the Dardanelles from the Sea of Marmara when it struck. Maybe it was the fact that we were on a ship and/or that we were not yet out in the Aegean itself that lessened the impact of the initial earthquake and its several aftershocks (one of which was 5.3 and struck around midnight).

I think it was just a matter of timing. Had it hit right as we came out of the Dardanelles into the Aegean at Canakkale, it could have been very unpleasant, especially if there had been a Tsunami associated with it.

We weren’t docking at Kasudasi until around 3pm, so we could sleep late and do shipboard activities until then. Not wanting to disturb anybody, I didn’t knock on any doors for breakfast. But Mark caught up with me at the stairs (we were only one deck away from where they did the breakfast and lunch buffets), so we had breakfast together. He ran off to the casino and I headed for a Greek cooking demonstration. We were able to sample the foods they cooked and they gave us recipes so we could make the dishes at home.

At lunch time, out by the pool, they made a seafood dish with mussels, shrimp, crab, rice, various vegetables and some spices in a giant wok. It was delicious. Although I watched them make it, I haven’t been able to completely duplicate it (likely because I didn’t necessarily recognize what all the vegetables and spices were).

We arrived in Kasudasi at 3:30pm. I had signed up for the tour of Ephesus and the Virgin Mary’s house. This was where the Apostle John had brought Mary to live after Jesus entrusted her to his care. She had a tiny stone house way up on a mountain near Ephesus. We visited there first. I really liked the atmosphere of the place. It was very serene and peaceful.

Then it was Ephesus. I had been there before too and thought it was one of the coolest ancient Greek/Roman cities I had ever seen (originally built in the 10^th century BC). When I had been there before, Trajan’s Fountain had been in scaffolding for some restoration. It was done this time and I could see it in all its glory.

For about three years, the Apostle Paul had lived in a dwelling that had been just behind the Library of Celsus — an exquisitely beautiful building down at the end of the steeply sloping street we took down into the town from the Agora and past the Odeon from the entrance. It was in Ephesus where we began to hear about the earthquake of the night before. It had been felt quite strongly there.

On my prior trip I had begun to run out of time by the time I got to the theatre. This time I made it a priority. It had an estimated seating capacity of 25,000 and is thought to have been the largest theatre in the classical world. It certainly seemed to me to be the largest I had ever seen. Paul preached at the theatre. He got around quite a bit before he got arrested, hauled off to Rome and ultimately beheaded.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped off at a carpet place. We were given a delicious tea and shown loads and loads of carpets. Did I resist? Not 100%. I ended up buying a very intricately woven small wall hanging. I figured that it went well with the curved Turkish dagger I purchased on my earlier trip to Turkey.

We didn’t arrive back at the ship until shortly after 9pm and went to a dinner buffet that was open until 10pm. Slept very well for another night. The gentle rocking that sometimes happens on a ship was working its magic on me.

Next time – Thera (Santorini) and Atlantis

June 2, 2019

Return to Istanbul – Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace was built in the 15^th century for the Ottoman Sultans, replacing the ruined Great Palace of Constantinople (destroyed by the Ottomans during their siege of the city). It is unique among palaces as being different from either European or Middle Eastern palaces. One of the draws for me was that it has a fully intact Harem! The palace also has lots of grilled windows and secret passages to allow the Sultan and his family maximum privacy.

Once we passed through the Imperial Gate, we were in the 1^st courtyard. There is a Mint and a small, Byzantine church, Haghia Eirene, in this courtyard. Several other buildings that used to be there aren’t any more. There is a fountain to the right, however, that was purportedly used by the executioners to wash their hands after performing a beheading. Lots of unsuspecting people were using it to refill their water bottles. Due to the heavy rain, I didn’t get a lot of outdoor shots unless I was under an arcade. Even then, with the torrent, many photos would have been of the rain and not what I was trying to see.

The gate from this courtyard into the next was called the Gate of Salutations. I thought it looked like part of a fairytale castle. Experts say it looks Byzantine. You can judge for yourself when you look at the photo included here.

Through this gate we entered the 2^nd courtyard. The Divan was where the Imperial Council met and had one of those grilled windows that the Sultan could hide behind and hear everything that went on there. In the photo, the grilled window is in the upper middle of the wall.

The entrance to the Harem and to the Imperial Kitchens (with utensils and porcelain on display) are also found in this courtyard, as well as the stables and one of the treasuries (at that time housing a collection of arms and armor).

The Gate of Felicity goes from this courtyard to the 3^rd. The Palace School was located here as well as the Audience Chamber, the Imperial Treasury, and numerous private apartments and special chambers. In order for me to tour the Harem, I needed to return to the 2^nd courtyard once we had our free time.

I paid the additional fee and entered the Harem. They gave us maps, which were somewhat helpful as the Harem is a very large labyrinth of rooms and courtyards. A newcomer could easily get lost. Even with the map I found myself getting confused a couple of times. But then, there were roughly 93 rooms that were open to the public.

The Harem was in use until the early 20^th century. Even though the Ottoman sultans had moved into the newer Dolmabahce Palace in the late 19^th century and the sultans lost power not too long thereafter, there were children who had been born in the Topkapi Palace Harem who were allowed to live there for as long as they wished. So there were some elderly women still living there at the end of their lives when the sultans were long gone.

At one point, about a year or two after I took this trip, some women from my church held a book club based on a book about life in the Topkapi Harem that was written by a granddaughter of one of the last residents of the Harem. She had visited her grandmother there and had interviewed her and other Harem residents in addition to the research she did for the book. It was quite fascinating.

In movies, harems are usually shown as large open pools of water with naked women bathing with eunuchs fanning them, surrounded by nasty-looking guards. Not quite. This Harem housed the Sultan’s mother, his wives, his concubines, his children, and all of their servants. The bathing areas were much smaller and more private than depicted in films. There were schools for the children, wives and concubines. The guards (who were eunuchs) weren’t there to keep the women and children in; they were there to keep others out. The residents of the Harem could go about their lives, including outside of the palace, but with an escort for their safety.

The first courtyard within the Harem area was the Courtyard of the Eunuchs. This was technically just before entering the actual Harem. The dormitories of the eunuchs overlooked this courtyard.

After passing through a sentry post, the Harem itself was reached. The first courtyard there was the Courtyard of the Queen Mother where the Sultan’s mother and her servants were housed. This had some truly elegant rooms. Taking photos of the rooms presented some difficulties as the day was dark, the rooms relatively small, and a lot of people were in them. In one of the rooms in the Queen Mother’s suite, I got a good shot of the upper portion of the walls, part of the ceiling and a chandelier. An attempt at photographing the entire room ended up with just a crowd of people not entirely in focus. Sometimes that’s just the way it is on a trip.

The next courtyard was the Courtyard of the Concubines. It was mainly pink. This area had dormitories for the general concubines with a special apartment for the Chief Concubine. There were also laundry facilities, baths, a hospital, and some beautiful gardens that overlooked the Bosphorus. I took some rather dark, but otherwise decent photos of a couple of the rooms in there.

The Imperial Hall was where the Sultan would hang out with friends and family. We were roped off from a good-sized section and it had a high dome with additional windows, which helped to get a good photo showing how ornate the room is. I just bided my time until I could get up to the rope with nobody in front of me.

When I finally made it through to the last courtyard – the Courtyard of the Favorites – and out of the final gate of the Harem, I was in the 3^rd courtyard of the palace again. I went and sat down under an arcade to reconnoiter (the photo of that courtyard was taken from my seated perspective). Checking my watch, map, and the lines, I realized that I didn’t have enough time left to see both the sacred relics in the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle and the Topkapi Dagger and other important jewels, art and artifacts in the Imperial Treasury. So I opted for the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle.

The Pavilion of the Holy Mantle was built to house relics of the Islamic Prophet Mohammed. It was originally part of the Sultan’s private quarters, but was opened up in the 16^th century for special viewing by others. Relics of the Prophet include his mantle, some hair from his beard, a tooth, a footprint, a bow and a sword.

What I really wanted to see were the other relics. These included a pot belonging to Abraham, the staff of Moses, the sword of David, the turban of Joseph (the Joseph with the coat of many colors), and an arm of John the Baptist (which was encased, but parts were visible). I was able to see all of these, but not allowed to take photos or video. Whether or not the relics were authentic doesn’t really matter that much to me as they were cool to see anyway.

After Topkapi, we visited the Grand Bazaar. By this time I was feeling really sick and it was still raining heavily. It was pretty much a monsoon at this point. So I opted to stay on the tour coach and take a nap after I picked up some items for dinner at a little food shop next to where we were parked. I had visited the Grand Bazaar in Cairo, Egypt (which is much older) just a couple years earlier, so I figured it was okay to miss this one.

I had to get up at 2am to catch my flight. I dozed off from Istanbul to Amsterdam and then watched a couple of movies from Amsterdam to Minneapolis. When I got home, I think I slept for three days straight (with my dog curled up with me). But I loved seeing Turkey and revisited both Istanbul and Ephesus three years later as part of a trip to Greece & the Greek Islands.

As we were heading back to the hotel from the Grand Bazaar, we passed the train station for the Orient Express. It is quite Victorian and reddish in color. My photo is shot through a rain-streaked tour coach window. Someday I would love to take the Orient Express from Istanbul to Venice, spending some extra time in both cities.

Next time – a long weekend in Hollywood, being a tourist while visiting family.

Gate of Salutations
The Divan
Inside the Divan
The 2nd Courtyard
Courtyard of the Eunuchs in Harem
Harem
Courtyard of the Queen Mother in Harem
Inside Queen Mother’s apartment
Inside Queen Mother’s apartment
Courtyard of the Concubines in Harem
Inside a Harem room
Another Harem room
The Imperial Hall in Harem
Courtyard of the Favorites in Harem
3rd Courtyard of Palace looking towards Audience Chamber
Pavilion of the Holy Mantle
Orient Express Train Terminal

May 26, 2019

Return to Istanbul – Haghia Sophia

Back when I was taking an art history class at Texas A&M University at Commerce, I became enamored with the Haghia Sophia in Istanbul. The photos of it showed a magnificent building, which was completed in 537 AD by the Holy Roman Emperor Justinian as a Greek Orthodox Cathedral. It was built over two previous buildings, also churches.

Haghia Sophia, meaning “Divine Wisdom” continued as a church for close to a thousand years until converted into a mosque by the Ottomans in 1453. It then remained as a mosque for nearly 500 years until the 1930s when it was turned into a museum. At that point, the paint and/or plaster that had been placed over many of its mosaics was removed. It is considered to be one of the greatest examples of Byzantine architecture in the world. It was also the largest cathedral on earth for roughly the first thousand years of its existence.

I was really excited to see it. I was still feeling mighty sick and it was a cold, rainy day. I drank a couple glasses of fresh-squeezed orange juice (by the way, Turkey has the most flavorful oranges I have ever tasted) with my breakfast, downed loads of cold meds, bundled up and headed out with my feet barely touching the ground. The Haghia Sophia was one of what you could call my “bucket list” locations. Josh Gates, host of “Expedition Unknown”, “Legendary Locations”, and “Destination Truth”, has declared it to be one of his favorite destinations as well.

It was starting to rain as we arrived, so we didn’t spend a lot of time outside, entering the building almost immediately. We gathered in the Narthex to listen to our tour director tell us about the history of the building. I already knew the history and was itching to get into the main part of the building. It was difficult for me to be patient, but I politely waited until he was done talking and escorted us towards the entrance to the nave.

The main entrance to the basilica is the Imperial Gate, which has a mosaic over the door depicting Christ on a throne with the Emperor bowing next to Him. This is one of the more famous mosaics within the Haghia Sophia.

Once inside of the nave, my jaw dropped in awe. Wow! So beautiful! The size is amazing. A mosaic of Mary and the baby Jesus can be seen straight ahead from the entrance in the apse near one of the two half-domed ceilings that flank the central dome. There are also mosaics of the Archangels Michael (fragmentary on the left) and Gabriel (a good share of him on the right) flanking the apse.

A coronation square for the crowning of Emperors is found in the floor just to the right and close to where the altar would have been. The altar was replaced by a Mihrab, which indicates the direction of Mecca. Not far from that is a Minbar, which is a raised, covered platform from which the sermon is delivered. It is reached by a steep stairway.

A special loge for the Ottoman Sultans is found perched on columns slightly to the left of the apse. A tall, throne-like chair called a Kűrsű, on which the Imam sits, is located over on the left side of the nave. I took photos and video of everything.

As soon as we were released for free time to explore on our own, I dashed off to the Vestibule of Warriors, where I could see the famous mosaic of Mary and the baby Jesus flanked by Justinian and Constantine over the door leading to the nave. There was a photo of that mosaic in my art history textbook. Constantine offers a representation of Constantinople while Justinian offers a model of the Haghia Sophia.

I felt that the ceiling of the vestibule showed the age of the building. It looked much older than so much of it that has been repaired (from earthquake damage) and renovated over the centuries. Perhaps it has been pretty much left alone.

The Haghia Sophia doesn’t have stairs. Instead it has ramps leading to its various levels. I headed up the main ramp to the gallery. I was so excited that I forgot to take a photo of the ramp, so I got one of the ramp that I used to come back down later. On the way to the ramp, I passed the Wishing Column. The line to touch it was longer than I cared to join. I had things that I wanted to make certain not to miss.

Up in the gallery, after taking some photos of the nave down below, I walked around to the other side of the building to the marble Gate of Heaven and Hell. Just inside of the gate was the famous Deësis mosaic, which has the adult Jesus flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist interceding for humanity on Judgement Day. The bottom portion of the mosaic has deteriorated, but the upper part is still amazing.

I continued along the gallery. The middle part was called the Loggia of the Empress, where the Holy Roman Empress and her court could watch what was taking place in the nave below.

From close to the end of the gallery, I took photos of the tall chair and the overall nave below on my way to two more mosaics that were nicely intact. One was of the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus flanked by Emperor John II Commenus and Empress Irene. The other was of Christ with Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe.

That was as far as I could go, so I returned to the opposite side of the gallery, continued along to the farthest I could go there too and then descended down the ramp located in the far corner down to the main floor. A gift shop was located at the bottom of the ramp. I bought a book on the basilica before having to head out to meet the others and our tour director. By this time, it was absolutely pouring rain. So I hid under the roof of a fountain until we could head off to Topkapi Palace.

Haghia Sophia
Narthex
Mosaic above Imperial Gate
View into nave from Imperial Gate
Mosaic of Mary and Baby Jesus in apse of nave
Mosaic of the archangel Gabriel
Coronation Square
Mihrab
Minbar
Sultan’s Loge
Ceiling of Vestibule of Warriors
Mosaic above entrance to Vestibule of Warriors
View of nave from gallery above
Marble Gate of Heaven & Hell
Deesis Mosaic
The gallery with Loggia of the Empress
Kursu (tall chair of Imam)
View of nave from gallery above at the other end
The ramp coming down from the gallery
Ceiling of fountain where I sought shelter from rain

May 19, 2019

Return to Istanbul – Part 1

As I mentioned in my first post on my 2011 trip to Turkey, I have always wanted to visit Istanbul. It seemed like such an amazing, mysterious place and it did not disappoint. Too bad that, by the time we got back there after traveling around the country for a couple of weeks, I was sick as a dog. But sick or not I was determined to soak it all in and see everything I wanted to see.

We had an early morning in Bursa and, immediately after breakfast, took off for the coast to take a ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Istanbul. Although I sort of drifted in and out on the way to where we caught the ferry, once we were on the ferry I was wide away and stood at the front of the railing to take in all of Istanbul as it hove into sight.

Our first stop in Istanbul was the Hippodrome of Constantinople. This track for horse racing and chariot races was built in 203 AD when the city was called Byzantium. In about 324 AD, when Constantine the Great relocated the capitol of the Holy Roman Empire to Byzantium (it was soon renamed Constantinople), he enlarged the Hippodrome to accommodate 100,000 spectators.

The four gilded horses at St Mark’s in Venice were looted from this Hippodrome during the Crusades in 1204. It is believed that the horses originated in either Greece or Rome.

The Serpent Column in the middle of the Hippodrome was removed by Theodosius the Great from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. It was originally cast to commemorate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians in the Persian Wars of the 5^th century BC. It once had a golden bowl supported by three serpent heads at the top. All that is left now is the base.

In 390 AD, Theodosius the Great brought an obelisk from Karnak in Luxor (dating from about 1490 BC). He had the obelisk cut into three pieces when he moved it to Constantinople. Only the top section survives on a marble pedestal in the same spot where Theodosius originally placed the obelisk.

In 1453, when the Ottomans took over, they built over the Hippodrome. In the 1950s the area was excavated and where the track was has been indicated with paving. We had lunch at a café next to the Hippodrome before making a visit to the Blue Mosque.

Constructed between 1609 and 1616, the Blue Mosque is actually the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. It was built on the foundations of the former Byzantine Grand Palace and got the name of the Blue Mosque because of its interior. It is decorated with thousands of ceramic tiles with the most prominent color being blue. The mosque also has six minarets. It is one of the few mosques that I have been able to visit that is still an active mosque. It is quite beautiful. Fortunately photography was allowed inside.

Next came a cruise on the Bosphorus. We started on the European side. One of the first places we saw was the 19^th century Dolmabahce Palace. This was where the Sultan and his family moved from Topkapi Palace. Topkapi was too old and not stylish enough in his opinion. The new palace was the largest in Turkey. We did not get to tour it. However, it is pretty much of a Victorian European style, so not terribly unique. The Sultan was trying to match his European counterparts.

Built in 1452 by Ottoman Sultan Mehment II, Rumelihiseri (also known as the Fortress of Europe) was originally built for an Ottoman siege on Constantinople. This fortress worked in tandem with the Anadoluhisari (Anatolian Fortress), directly across the Bosphorus (and at its more narrow point), to cut off all naval traffic on the Bosphorus. After the fall of Constantinople (which was then renamed Istanbul and made the new Ottoman capitol) this fortress was used mainly as a customs checkpoint and as a prison.

Immediately after it was built, Mehment used it to levy taxes on any ship using the Bosphorus. A Venetian ship decided to ignore the orders to stop and pay. They were immediately sunk, surviving sailors beheaded, and the captain impaled and used as a human scarecrow as a warning to all other ships.

The Anadoluhisari was built by Sultan Bayezid I in 1396-7 as part of his plan for a siege of Constantinople. The siege was interrupted by a crusade and then a period of turmoil for the Ottomans. After Mehment’s successful siege, this fortress also served as a customs house and as a military prison.

Shortly before we reached the end of the cruise, we passed by the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. We would be spending the following day exploring these last two buildings and the Grand Bazaar.

That night, we were going out for dinner and entertainment, which included belly dancers. These were not the same type of belly dancers as in Egypt. They were the more common version that are seen in most movies and TV shows where belly dancers are featured.

Once again, I pretty much passed out for the night. I was really looking forward to seeing Haghia Sophia and Topkapi Palace. Both places were legendary and the main reasons why I wanted to visit Istanbul in the first place.

Roman mile post
Serpent Column
Obelisk
Roman marble base for obelisk
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque arcade
Blue Mosque interior
Another view of interior
Yet another view of interior
Bosphorus cruise boat
Dolmabahce Palace
European side of Bosphorus
Fortress of Europe
Anatolian Fortress
Asian side of Bosphorus
Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia & Topkapi Palace
Belly Dancer

May 12, 2019May 12, 2019

Ankara, King Midas’ Tomb & Bursa

When leaving Cappadocia in the early, misty morning, we saw several balloons rising in the air to give tourists a balloon’s-eye-view of the area. Although I won’t hesitate to go up in a helicopter or small plane (as long as they are enclosed) I’m not a fan of going up in anything I could possibly fall out of. I won’t do outdoor observation platforms or narrow, swinging bridges across deep gorges either.

On our way to Ankara, the capitol of Turkey, we could see Hasan Mountain off in the distance. This is the second tallest mountain in Turkey, the tallest being Ararat. The photo I captured shows some snow-capped peaks roughly in the center of the photo that seem to be floating as the lower portions of the mountain are hidden by the mist.

Ankara, the second largest city in Turkey after Istanbul, became the capitol in 1923 at the end of the Turkish War of Independence. It is a very old city, however, with its origins dating back to the Bronze Age. A large number of artifacts from the area are housed at the fascinating Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. The country now known as Turkey has also been known as Anatolia throughout most of its history.

There are some stone and bone tools dating back to the Palaeolithic Age (before 8000 BC). From the Neolithic Age (8000 – 5500 BC) is the oldest known cave painting in existence and a mother earth goddess figure. I have included photos of both with this post.

The museum is quite large with several items from pretty much every other period of history from the Chalcolithic Age, Early Bronze Age, Assyrian Trade Colonies, and Hittite Period. From the Phrygian Period they have King Midas’ skull and most of the pieces found in his tomb. There really was a King Midas; in fact there were three. Not sure which one was supposed to have asked Dionysus to give him the ability to turn everything he touched into gold. But the one whose skull and belongings are displayed in the museum in Ankara is considered to be the most important of the three.

They also have items all the way through history up to the modern era. Saw loads of swords, daggers, helmets, etc. There were some really cool looking feathered owl mask-like pieces that turned out to be something that would be placed over a severed head. That took them from cool to creepy.

We went to the Ataturk Memorial. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was the founder and first president of the Republic of Turkey (from 1923 to his death in 1938). He has an enormous memorial in Ankara. When we arrived there, a private service or viewing of some sort was going on inside of the mausoleum and the attached museum. We needed to wait outside for a while. It was very cold and pretty soon began to rain torrentially.

While waiting to get inside, we took photos and videos of what we could outside, including a changing of the guard ceremony. Once it began to pour, we cowered under a covered arcade (and behind a pillar) until we could get indoors. Once inside, we could take photos within the mausoleum itself, but not the museum. They had a large number of items from his life and even recreated some rooms from his home. They had several of his cars and carriages.

From there we entered the former Kingdom of Phryge to visit Gordion. This was where Alexander the Great “cut (or unraveled) the Gordion knot”, which was the equivalent of Arthur pulling the sword from the stone. There were a large number of burial mounds including the largest of them all for King Midas (this is the Midas from the 8^th century BC). We had lunch near the tomb and then visited it and the museum next to the cafe where we had lunch.

Although it wasn’t raining and wasn’t quite as cold as it had been in Ankara, by this time I was not feeling at all well. However, I behaved myself while in the tomb, unlike King David’s in Jerusalem and King Tut’s in the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. I didn’t lie down on any slabs (although I desperately needed a nap) or trip over anything. To be fair, although I missed seeing the step in David’s tomb and fell headlong against the gate separating women from the coffin, I don’t think it was at all my fault that the electricity went out when I was in Tut’s tomb, leaving me alone in the dark with Tut himself.

Midas was not in his tomb any more since he was in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. The tomb was built of wood surrounded by a stone tomb with loose rocks in between the two enclosures. Then a mound of dirt and grass was over the stone tomb. It was different from any other tomb I have seen. I was really glad to be able to see and photograph it.

En route to the former Ottoman capitol of Bursa, we stopped off for a break at a Turkish coffee shop. Not a coffee drinker, I was glad to see they had hot chocolate.

When we arrived in Bursa, our tour director said to meet him in the lobby in 45 minutes (after we received our luggage and got ourselves a little settled in our rooms) to go on a walking tour of the old part of the city. I told him that I was not at all well and needed to go to bed. Bless his heart, he showed up at my door right about the same time as my luggage with some cough syrup with codeine, some antibiotics, some fresh-squeezed orange juice, and a gyro. The drugs could be purchased without a prescription in Turkey.

The room was a large corner room which was rounded with windows all the way around the two exterior walls. There was a large, round column in the middle of the room. It also had a small table and chairs for me to sit and have my dinner. Just outside of my windows was a statue of the founder of the Ottoman Empire, Osman Gazi who lived roughly from 1257 to 1326. Once I had my dinner and took my drugs (including some cold tablets I brought with me) I went to bed and slept soundly.

Next time – back to Istanbul to actually tour the place.

Balloons over Cappadocia
Hasan Mountain
Cave painting
Mother earth goddess
Hittite sculpture
King Midas’ skull
Medieval helmets
Owl “masks”
Soldier at Ataturk Memorial
View from Ataturk Memorial
Interior of mausoleum
King Midas’ Tomb
Corridor in tomb
Stone outer tomb & loose rocks
Wooden inner tomb
Turkish coffee house
Bursa hotel room
View from Bursa hotel room

May 5, 2019May 5, 2019

Cappadocia

The Silk Road was a network of trade routes from China through India and Persia and on to the Middle East and other Mediterranean locations. Its heyday was from the 3^rd century to the Middle Ages. Along the route were Caravanserais. These were essentially motels for merchants traveling along the Silk Road that included accommodations for both people and animals (horses, donkeys, camels), shops for supplies, food, drink and a mosque. At night they closed up tight like a fortress to keep the travelers safe.

One such Caravanserai is the Agzikarahan Caravanserai, which is close to the town of Askaray. It was built in the early 13^th century and was one of the last (and largest) built. It also contains a small mosque reached by narrow steps. Even narrower steps (where it was necessary to hug the wall) lead up to the roof.

The area of Cappadocia consists of hundreds (possibly thousands) of formations eroded by wind and rain from soft volcanic rock over millions of years. The Hittites lived here between 1800 and 1200 BC and began to carve out dwellings from the rock. Some of these dwellings are still lived in today.

In the 4^th century AD, Christians fled to the area to avoid persecution elsewhere. They created underground cities that were completely hidden and fortified. We toured part of one of these cities at Ozkonak. The people engineered the means to bring both fresh air and water down into their cities. At Ozkonak, they also had a communication system of pipes, which is unique among all of the underground cities in the area. 60,000 people could be housed on ten levels for up to three months when the city was sealed against their enemies. Four levels are currently open. Large round stones were used as doors.

As short as I am, I needed to practically double over to walk through the tunnels connecting the different homes and other buildings. Not being used to having to duck down when I walk, I forgot at one point and beaned myself. I really smacked my forehead hard. I was embarrassed for being such an idiot, so I kept quiet and just held my cold water bottle to my head for a bit.

By the 9^th century, the people came out from the underground cities and began carving out churches and homes from the volcanic rock in the Goreme region. We could see the remains of St Basil’s Church up above us. We visited the Tokali Church (the Church of the Buckle), which is the largest of the group. Then we went into the Barbara Church. This one was much smaller and built in the 11^th century. But the wall frescos were not in as good shape as some of the other churches. The floor was full of graves. We needed to walk across planks to get around the church.

The Yilanli Church (or the Snake Church) was named for a fresco of St Theodore and St George slaying a dragon that looked rather snake-like. After visiting this church, several of us climbed up some narrow, shallow (in depth), but high (in height of each step) stairs to a monastery consisting of a storage room, kitchen and dining room. There was a church above the dining hall. The stairs had no railings at all. So when I needed to come back down, I turned around and went down backwards. The steps were so much like a ladder that I treated them as such.

Up another set of steep stairs (but with a railing) was St Katharine’s Church. This was another 11^th century church. We visited a carpet maker and a jewelry maker. The carpet maker wove the rugs on the property and had several beautiful carpets – especially those made from silk, which were the most expensive. The jewelry was mainly turquoise. It was also created in the shop. That evening we had dinner at a place with folk dancing. I enjoy seeing the costumes and dances of the countries I visit.

The next day, we went to the Pasabag Valley (Monks Valley) which had mushroom caps on top of its “fairy chimneys”. The area is called Monks Valley because several monks lived at the top of the columns there. Their rooms were accessed first by steps, which became more like a ladder, which then became handholds. The space within became more and more narrow as the top became closer. This was to discourage strangers from climbing up to the rooms. Storage rooms were often at the base of the building and could serve several people.

We stopped at several other places, including the Three Graces and a camel formation. Near the camel, we encountered a wedding party who posed for photos for us. We had lunch on an outdoor terrace at Uchisar in the Pigeon Valley (or Valley of the Dovecotes). A massive rock cut castle overlooks the valley. We could clearly see and photograph this castle from where we had lunch.

Where the tour coach had been parked was next to a small shop. The shop owner’s dog relatively recently had had puppies. So we all gathered around the puppies and mother to ‘ooo’ and ‘aw’ at how adorable they all were.

Before calling it a night, we went to a Whirling Dervish ceremony. Because it was a religious expression, no filming or photography was allowed. After they were finished, a few of them came out and recreated some of what they had done so we could take our photos and video.

One of the younger women on my tour was originally from Afghanistan. She was on the trip with her parents who had taken her and her siblings to immigrate to Canada a few years earlier. She was quite friendly towards me, but her parents were not. I wasn’t sure if it was because of the language barrier or not. She sat next to me as we watched the Whirling Dervishes in their worship. She whispered to me about what they were doing and why throughout, which made the whole experience so much more magical.

The order was founded in the 13^th century in Konya, Turkey. The ceremony has four parts, starting with a solo song of praise followed by some improvisation on a reed flute. The second part involves the participants bowing to one another and then making a single file procession around the hall. Once they have all bowed and proceeded around they hall, they kneel and remove their black cloaks, leaving white gowns and tall, brown hats.

It is during the third part that the whirling takes place. As mentioned in an earlier post, they spin on their left foot with the right palm stretched towards heaven and the left hand pointing to the ground. They very much appear to be in a trance. The last part of the ceremony involves a recitation from the Qu’ran and a prayer.

Next time – Exploring Ankara (the modern Turkish capitol), King Midas’ tomb, and Bursa (the original Ottoman capitol).

Entrance to Agzikarahan Caravanserai
Within the caravanserai
Entrance to mosque in caravanserai
Ozkonak underground city
Goreme Open Air Museum
Some of the churches at Goreme
Goreme carpet factory & shop
Turkish folk dancers
Monks Valley
A grouping of monk’s dwellings
Storeroom next to steps up into dwelling
Shallow steps leading to hand holds
Camel formation
Wedding party
Uchisar rock cut castle
New friends
Staged Whirling Dervish ceremony

April 28, 2019April 28, 2019

From Aphrodisias to Konya

Aphrodisias dates to 5800 BC, but wasn’t dedicated to Aphrodite until the 2^nd century BC. As an archeological site, it’s pretty cool as quite a bit of it is relatively intact despite having been largely abandoned after a major earthquake in the 7^th century AD. The area it is in is highly earthquake prone.

The first structure we came to was the Tetrapylon (gate), built roughly 200 AD, which I thought was quite beautiful. At the center of town was a large temple. It had been dedicated to a goddess of fertility back when it was originally built in the 7^th century BC, but was later enlarged and dedicated to Aphrodite in the 2^nd century BC. By the 5^th century AD, the temple was converted into a church and remained so until the earthquake that destroyed most of the town.

The Odeon was a lecture hall that seated about 1,750 when completely intact. Now it has its first nine rows up from the stage, but the rest is in ruins. The Stadium is one of the best preserved in the Mediterranean. It was used strictly for sporting events until after the 7^th century AD earthquake when the theatre was badly damaged. Then a stage was added to the stadium so plays could be performed there. The arena was always too narrow for chariot races.

We visited several other structures including a bath house, an agora (market), and the museum containing several statues and other artifacts before heading for Pamukkale. The name Pamukkale means “cotton castle”. The white terraces of travertine are created from hot springs. At the time I was there, people were allowed to walk on portions of the travertine as long as they did so with bare feet. Currently it isn’t allowed at all as it has been decided that it causes too much damage.

Adjacent to Pamukkale is what remains of the ancient city of Hierapolis which sits on hot springs in the classical kingdom of Phrygia in southwestern Anatolia. Founded in the 2^nd century BC by King Eumenes II of Pergamon as a thermal spa center, Hierapolis quickly became a healing center. The Greek king Antiochus III the Great, relocated roughly 2,000 Jewish families from Babylon and Mesopotamia to Hierapolis (which means “Holy City”). The population grew to about 50,000 by 62 BC.

After a couple of nasty earthquakes in 17 AD and 30 AD, much of the Greek city was destroyed. It was rebuilt in the Roman style. Hierapolis had been ceded to Rome in 133 BC.

St Phillip (the disciple) was martyred there in 80 AD, during the reign of Titus. He was crucified upside down as he claimed he wasn’t worthy of being crucified in the same manner as Jesus. In 2011, a few months after my trip, his tomb was discovered just outside of Hierapolis, not too far from where he had been martyred.

After entering the site, one of the first structures we encountered was the gymnasium. The word “gymnos” actually means “naked”. This was because the early sporting events and competitions were performed in the nude.

The theatre (dating from some time after the 60 AD earthquake) was in pretty good shape and still seats about 15,000. We were up on the area at the top of the theatre, behind it, when a woman who had been pushing her grown daughter in a wheelchair, turned away from the wheelchair momentarily without setting the brakes. The chair took off towards the low stone wall behind the theatre. The mother and the others with her didn’t notice, but I did and I ran towards it, grabbing a hold a few feet from the wall. The mother and her friends had noticed by this time and arrived shortly after I stopped the chair and set its brakes. Whew! What possibly could have been an unpleasant accident averted!

I was out of breath (running is not something I do often – especially not uphill), so I entered the theatre and sat down for a bit to catch my breath. The photo I have included with this post was taken from that perspective.

In the 7^th century AD another destructive earthquake took place. This toppled several columns into a large, ancient thermal pool. They are still there as part of the pool. The pool has sometimes been associated with the Temple of Apollo and has often been touted as a location where Cleopatra once bathed. Some of us chose to have an afternoon break poolside.

Our hotel was in Pamakkale and it also had a thermal pool, which was very relaxing after a long, strenuous day. I slept well that night.

The next morning we set out for Konya. During our mid-morning break, we were served a thick yogurt with honey and hashish (which, in small amounts, was legal in Turkey as of 2011). It was sprinkled with hashish – not enough for getting high.

Konya was once called Iconium and has been inhabited since about 3000 BC. The name of the town was changed to Konya in about 1134 AD. It is a very strict, conservative Muslim community and is also the main home of the Whirling Dervishes. The hotel was easy walking distance from the Mevlana Museum (the Museum of the Whirling Dervish).

The Whirling Dervishes (also known as the Mevlevi or Sufi) are an order who celebrate their love of Allah by spinning around in a dance called the Sama. They spin on their left foot with their right palm facing up towards Heaven and their left hand pointing at the ground. We had not yet seen one of these ceremonies at this point.

Although I had been just fine during the rest of the tour, in Konya I appeared to stand out way too much because of my coloring. On the way into the museum (out in the courtyard area) a couple of women grabbed the braid I was wearing down the center of my back. Apparently they had the need to find out what my hair felt like. I was quite startled.

After touring the museum (which dates to 1274), I walked around outside of the building looking at the graves when I was confronted by two couples. The men were dressed very conservatively and the women were covered from head to toe in layers of black cloth – a burka. As soon as they saw me, the men placed themselves directly in my path and began to shout something at me that I could not understand. I responded that I was sorry, but did not understand and attempted to get past them. The one man and both women left, but the other man stayed and gave me a good shove (that he made certain no one else saw) before he too left. Shaken, I headed back to the hotel immediately and stayed there. Fortunately, this was the only time I was treated badly the entire trip.

Next time – Cappadocia.

Aphrodisias Tetrapylon
Temple of Aphrodite
Odeon
Stadium
Bath House
Agora
Pamukkale (location where I was standing)
Pamukkale
Entrance to Hierapolis
Gymnasium
Theatre at Hierapolis
Ancient Thermal Pool
Entrance to Museum of the Whirling Dervish
Whirling Dervish Graves

April 22, 2019April 22, 2019

Ephesus

Ephesus was originally a Greek city built around the 10^th century BC on the site of an earlier Hittite city dedicated to the worship of Cybele, the Anatolian mother goddess. Cybele (or Kybele) and the Greek goddess, Artemis, were combined to create Artemis of Ephesus. There is a statue of her in the Commercial Agora (main marketplace) next to the Library of Celsus.

One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis (completed roughly 550 BC), was located just outside of Ephesus. Ephesus was destroyed by the Goths in 263 AD, rebuilt, and then partially destroyed by an earthquake in 614 AD.

What mainly exists now is the 4^th century BC city of Alexander the Great’s successor, Lysinachus. Only about 20 to 30 percent of the actual city has been excavated as of yet. For the most part, the Roman remains are in the best shape. Marc Anthony and Cleopatra visited Ephesus back in 33 BC.

The city has lots of Christian associations. The Apostle Paul lived in Ephesus from 52 to 54 AD. He lived just behind the Library of Celsus and attended a synagogue that was close by until he started a church. He wrote the book of Corinthians while he was living in Ephesus and wrote the letters to the Ephesians after he was imprisoned in Rome. He also preached in the 25,000 seat theatre, which is mostly intact.

The disciple, John, was thought to have brought Mary, the Mother of Jesus to Ephesus in 37 AD to live out the remainder of her life. The restored house is up a mountain about five miles outside of the city.

The tomb of John is located at the Basilica of Saint John which was constructed by Emperor Justinian I in the 6^th century AD. The ruins of the Basilica stand up a hill not too far from the remains of the Temple of Artemis.

At Ephesus, our tour started with the Baths of Varius. We could see the water pipes that brought water to several of the Roman baths and throughout the city. Next we visited the Odeon, which was once a roofed meeting hall.

Coming down the hill towards the main part of the city, we arrived at a square with both physician and pharmacist symbols on the gate. There too were the remains of the Temple of Domitian. Soon we had our first glimpse of the Library of Celsus shortly before reaching the Gate of Hercules and another bathhouse and privy.

The Temple of Hadrian dates from the 2^nd century and was repaired in the 4^th century. What remains of the temple is very graceful looking with a delicate curved arch in the middle. Hadrian was a busy guy, building walls, triumphal arches, aqueducts, temples and other structures all over the Roman Empire.

The remains of the Library of Celsus are gorgeous. The four statues on the façade represent Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intellect), and Episteme (knowledge). The library, built in 125 AD, was funded by Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, Governor of Roman Asia. His son was the one who had it built and Celsus himself was buried in a sarcophagus beneath the building. With its reading rooms facing the East to catch the early morning light, the library originally held about 12,000 scrolls.

If you exit the library to the area in front of it and go to your left, you will find the Commercial Agora (the main marketplace). There are statues in the niches. One of the most important is the statue of Artemis (the Roman goddess Diana) of Ephesus.

The street in front of the library is made of marble and leads to the theatre, which is considered to be the largest Roman Theatre in existence. Although it was mainly used for theatrical presentations, it was also used for some gladiatorial exhibitions in the later Roman period. A graveyard for gladiators has been discovered nearby.

After leaving Ephesus, we drove up a nearby mountain to visit Mary’s house. The room in which she lived is off to the side of a small chapel. There is also a baptismal pool on the property.

Coming down the mountain, at the edge of the modern town of Selcuk, we stopped off to see the remains (mainly one tall column with some scattered smaller pieces) of the Temple of Artemus. The temple took about 120 years to build and was enormous and beautiful. It was destroyed by a flood in the 7^th century BC. The area around it is still a pond.

The remains of the Basilica of St John are visible from the location of the temple. A 14^th century mosque can also be seen as well as a medieval castle fortress on the top of a nearby mountain.

That evening, about half of our group walked down to the harbor and had dinner at a very homey restaurant. We sat out in the front yard under a large canopy. I didn’t record in my journal what we ate. By the time we made it back up to the hotel, we needed to head straight to bed due to an early departure time in the morning. I do remember that we ordered several different dishes and shared them. It was mainly sea food. We had a great time and definitely worked off the dinner and the wine on the climb back up the steep road from the harbor to the hotel.

We spent the next couple of days exploring Aphrodisias, Parmukkale, Hierapolis, and Konya.

Baths of Varius
Water pipes
Odeon
Temple of Domitian
Looking down the street towards the Library of Celsus
Gate of Hercules
Temple of Hadrian
Library of Celsus
From inside the library
Artemis of Ephesus
Commercial Agora
Library from another angle
Theatre
Beneath the stage at the theatre
Mary’s House
Temple of Artemis with Basilica of St John upper left
View of Kasudasi from hotel room

April 14, 2019April 14, 2019

Troy

Troy, the site of the Trojan War back in roughly 1184 BC, was thought to have been a mythical place as portrayed by Homer in The Iliad. But it was a real city. Its location was first identified in 1822. But it wasn’t until 1868 that the first archeologist began excavations. There are nine levels. The seventh is thought to be the one from the period Homer wrote about.

We could see the walls and the remains of one of the towers. We could also walk through the corridor to the gate, which was at a hairpin turn to prevent the enemy from attacking with a battering ram. Shortly after entering the gate, we could climb to the remains (mostly just the floor) of the Temple of Athena.

The Trojan War was fought against Troy by the Greeks when Paris of Troy (son of King Priam) took Helen from her husband, Menelaus, King of Sparta. Menelaus’ brother was Agamemnon, King of Mycenae. He took the lead in the siege of Troy.

Troy is now considered to be much, much larger than what has so far been excavated. What they have uncovered is thought to be the citadel within the larger city. It is also thought that the Trojan Horse was likely taken up a ramp into the citadel and not through the gate.

We explored several of the levels, including a theatre (Roman) at the 9^th level. One of the women with whom I hung out the most and I climbed up a hill that overlooked the remains of the corridor and gate so we could get some more photos before we needed to leave the site. Under that hill is likely even more of Troy.

It was such an exciting place to be since I had heard about it all my life. Though some distance from the sea now, it was right next to it back in its day.

After leaving Troy, we drove along the Bay of Edremit, from where we could see the Greek Island of Lesbos. According to Homer, Lesbos was once part of the kingdom of Priam, the King of Troy.

We had lunch at Bergama, which was once Pergamon. The current city of Bergama is known for its carpets.

In the afternoon, we stopped off at Izmir, which is also known as Smyrna. The origins of Smyrna date to the 3^rd millennium BC, but the city was destroyed in the 7^th century BC. Then Alexander the Great came along. He wanted to restore the city after having a dream while sleeping on a nearby mountain. He founded his new city of Smyrna on the side of the mountain.

We spent the night at Kusadasi from which we explored Ephesus the next day.

Trojan Horse at Troy
Remains of tower
Corridor to gate
View from Athenian temple
1st excavation
View of some of the levels
The ramp
Another view
Roman theatre
More of Troy
A different view of Troy
The gate and corridor viewed from the opposite hill
Izmir/Smyrna

April 7, 2019April 7, 2019

Istanbul & Gallipoli

When the person behind the desk at the airport asked me where I was going, I was really tickled to be able to say “Istanbul”. It had always seemed like such an exotic, mysterious place. Partially in Europe and partially in Asia, it was once Constantinople. Before that, it was Byzantium. It has Egyptian obelisks, a Roman hippodrome, very early Christian structures, and Ottoman mosques. It also has a royal palace with a completely intact harem. Then, there is the train station for the Orient Express. Someday I would love to take the trip from Istanbul to Venice.

The hotel was on the Asian side of the Bosphorus overlooking the Golden Horn and near the Galata Bridge. A deep, natural harbor, the Golden Horn has been the main military port of Istanbul back as far as the 7^th century BC. I could see the Suleymaniye Mosque (Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent), on the other side of the Bosphorus, from my hotel room.

After taking a few photos from my hotel room window, I set out to explore the area (which was called Galata) around the hotel. It was a grey day, but the city itself was colorful.

That evening I met the Tour Director and my fellow travelers. We had 41 people on the tour. Only a couple of us were from the US. Most were from Canada, the UK and Australia.

We were returning to Istanbul later in the tour to explore the city in detail. So the next morning, we crossed the Galata Bridge to the European side, looked around a bit and then left Istanbul, driving along the Sea of Marmara on the European side of the Dardanelles. We were headed to Gallipoli.

During World War I, a large battle took place between the Ottoman Empire (supported by Germany and Austria-Hungary) and the British Empire (Australia, India, Newfoundland, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom), supported by France and Russia on the Gallipoli Peninsula. It was a major Ottoman victory and a horrible defeat for the British Empire and its Allies (302,000 casualties). It was an absolute massacre.

We started off at Anzac Cove, one of the main battlefields. Just above the cove is a rock formation called “the Sphinx”. Next was the Mehmetcik Memorial, which depicts a Turkish soldier carrying a British soldier. Then we visited the cemetery and the Lone Pine Memorial to the Australians who died at Gallipoli.

The main memorial included a statue of Ataturk (1^st President of the Republic) and some of the battle trenches. A memorial to New Zealand was near the Ataturk Memorial. There is a pretty good film about it called “Gallipoli” released in 1981. I was quite moved by the film when I saw it several years before visiting Turkey.

When we were done exploring the battlegrounds, trenches, cemetery and memorials, we took a ferry from Kilye Bay on the European side of the Dardanelles to Canakkale on the Asia Minor side. Canakkale is the nearest major town to Troy. The Trojan Horse used in the 2004 film “Troy” greets those who arrive by ferry.

We spent the night at a resort hotel on the water. There were some huge rabbits hanging out on the property. Much larger than the bunnies I usually have on my property at home.

I had what I thought was a really interesting bathtub in my room. It was quite compact and you basically sat on a seat and used a hand-held shower. It worked well for a seated shower, but wouldn’t have worked at all for a bubble bath.

We spent the next day stepping way back in time while exploring Troy!