August 2019 – A Traveling Fool

August 25, 2019

The Baltics: Berlin, Germany Revisited

I had been to Germany and Poland on a previous 2008 tour of Central Europe with my mom. Both countries were included in the 2012 tour that I took to the Baltic Region, so I had the chance to visit them for a second time. We took a ferry from Gadser, Denmark to Rostock, Germany, and then drove to Berlin, where we spent the night in a hotel in the former West Berlin.

On the 2008 trip, we had spent several days in Germany touring all over the country. This time, we had just one full day in Berlin. We picked up our local guide across from the zoo and headed out for a guided tour, starting at Potsdamer Platz, which has the largest concentration of newer skycrapers (and corporate headquarters) in the city.

Our first actual stop was at the Topographie of Terror, which had not yet existed in 2008 (opened in 2010) and was located on the former site of the torture chambers of the Gestopo, next to a still standing section of the Berlin Wall. It has displays regarding the horrors of Nazi rule.

Our next stop was Checkpoint Charlie – the US manned crossing between East Berlin and West Berlin. In 1961, there had been a very tense standoff between US tanks and Soviet tanks. The US Attorney General at the time was Robert Kennedy. He and a KGB guy managed to talk it out and de-escalate, despite both sides having about 10 tanks each pointed at the other side.

Then we went to the Holocaust Memorial (Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe) and explored that. It is located on what had been a “killing zone” of the Berlin Wall and is near both the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (German Parliament Building). Although it is right in the middle of the city, when you are walking around among the slabs, the large blocks muffle a lot of the surrounding sound and it seems very quiet and peaceful.

Our next visit was to the square containing the German Dome, French Dome and Theatre, before we drove by the Ephraim Palace and the Town Hall on our way to Museum Island. The Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dome) was next to the Altes Museum. The Cathedral was originally built in the 15^th century, but this version was finished in 1905. Sometime when I have more free time in Berlin, I want to spend a day on Museum Island. It has some amazing museums with some incredible art and historic objects. One of the pieces in the Neues Museum is the very famous bust of Nefertiti.

After leaving Museum Island, we saw the Kronprinzenpalais, which was the Crown Prince of Germany’s palace in the 18^th century. For a while, it was used as an annex of the National Gallery and is now used for exhibitions.

A very short distance away is the Opera House on Bebelplatz. This was the main site of the Nazi Book Burnings in the 1930s. There is a memorial on Bebelplatz set into the square.

The first time I had been to the Brandenburg Gate, it had been snowing (we were there in March, not one of our best decisions). This time it was early September and a beautiful day. The gate had been built in the 18^th century to represent peace. It was later used as one of the symbols of the Nazi party and was also a symbol of Berlin during the Cold War. Although it survived the bombings of World War II, it was pockmarked in several places.

The Reichstag was built in 1894 and was destroyed by fire in 1933. It didn’t get fully restored until after the reunification in 1990. The decision was made to reconstruct the dome out of glass, which not only provides a lot of natural light to the parliament below, but also allows visitors to have some spectacular views from the ramps and platforms inside.

We went by the President’s Palace, Schloss Bellevue, on our way back to the zoo, where we were dropping off our local guide as well as being released for lunch and some free time. Heike and I found a place to eat nearby. We also briefly stopped in at a souvenir shop where I bought a small piece of the Berlin Wall.

We wanted to explore the Kaiser Wilhelm Kirche, which had been severely bombed during World War II and left as it was as a memorial. Built in the 1890s, what remains of the interior is pretty cool. It is very traditional in style – kind of a Victorian era version of a medieval style church. It is quite a contrast to the new church that was built in four buildings surrounding the old church and connecting to it. The new church is mainly of glass and very, very modern. We both thought it was quite beautiful.

After visiting the church, we returned to the zoo to see some of the animals. There was a baby elephant which was quite fun to watch as he or she was really adorable. We also spent some time with some llamas before we needed to join back up with our group to head to Poland.

Next time – revisiting Poland with new adventures in a couple of places I have been before.

Topographie of Terror
Berlin Wall
Checkpoint Charlie
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Berliner Dome
Opera House on Bebelplatz
Brandenburg Gate
Reichstag
Another view of Reichstag
Schloss Bellevue
Kaiser Wilhelm Kirche
Inside Kaiser Wilhelm Kirche
More of Interior
Interior of New Part
Entrance to Zoo
Piece of Berlin Wall (with little piece of plastic on it to protect it)

August 18, 2019

The Baltics: Denmark

In the fall of 2012, I took a tour to the Baltics. Although the Baltic States are officially Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, the Baltic Region also includes Denmark, Germany, Poland, Russia, Finland, and Sweden, which all rim the Baltic Sea. Nine countries; nine languages; nine cultures; and seven currencies (not all were using the Euro). I had been to Germany and Poland before, but not to any of the other countries.

I flew from Minneapolis to Toronto and from there to Copenhagen. It was kind of a misty day. There was a grocers near the hotel, so I bought some food for lunch. The entire group would be getting together to meet each other and then have dinner at 6:30pm. There were about 22 people. Only a couple of us were from the US, the rest were from Canada, the UK, Australia and New Zealand.

Right away, I met a woman named Heike, who had been born in Germany, but had moved to Australia when she was a child. We immediately hit it off and are still friends. Our Tour Director, Andrej, was originally from Russia. He had managed to leave Russia while it was still under official Communist control and eventually made a new life for himself in the US after spending a few years in some of the other countries we were about to visit. He was a very interesting person to talk with about all sorts of things.

Officially the Kingdom of Denmark, Denmark was once ruled together with Norway and Sweden. Its people have been referred to a Jutes and Vikings (along with Norway) as well as Danes. Copenhagen had originally been a Viking fishing village (beginning in the 10^th century) before becoming the capitol of Denmark in the 15^th century. I have both Viking and specifically Danish ancestry, so was very happy to be in Denmark.

The next morning, we began our tour of Copenhagen at the Borsen (built in the 1600s), which was the old stock exchange. It is currently used as the Danish Chamber of Commerce. I thought it was a very unique looking building. It was along the waterfront, with gables that looked similar to some I have seen in the Netherlands and a steeple with entwined dragon’s tails.

Nearby, on its own little island, is Christiansborg Palace, which was built in the 18^th century on the site of an earlier castle. It is the home of the Danish Parliament, Prime Minister’s Offices and Supreme Court, as well as several Royal Reception Rooms (including a Throne Room), a library, the Palace Chapel, and the Royal Stables.

On our way from this area to a 17^th century waterfront called Nyhavn, we passed by a statue of a knight on horseback that I really liked and managed to get a pretty good photo of as we passed. Nyhavn was a colorful area with restaurants and townhouses and loads of boats. Some of the boats were an older type called “lantern boats”.

At the mouth of the harbor is the famous Little Mermaid statue. Unveiled in 1913, the face of the statue was based on a Danish ballerina who portrayed the Little Mermaid in a ballet based on the story by Hans Christian Anderson.

Amalienborg Palace is the home of the Danish Royal Family. They moved there from Christiansborg Palace after Christiansborg suffered a severe fire. It is really four identical palaces situated around a courtyard. We watched a changing of the guard ceremony, which I managed to video as well as photograph. I enjoyed watching the lead guard yelling at tourists to “get out of the way” (in English) as they performed their maneuvers.

The Royal Life Guards march from the nearby Rosenborg Palace (which dates from 1606) in order to have the changing of the guard ceremony. The palace was built in the Dutch Renaissance style and was used as a royal residence until around 1710. This palace still contains the crown jewels. The photo I took as we went by is a little off kilter and fuzzy, but still gives an idea of what the palace looks like.

We also saw the Opera House, a copy of Michelangelo’s statue of David, the 1626 Kastellet military buildings, and the 1740 marble Fredericks Kirke. Then we had our lunch stop by the Tivoli Gardens. This was a large, famous, 19^th century amusement park in the heart of the city. Its many rides include four roller coasters.

After lunch, I visited the City Hall Square where I watched some musicians and took photos of the surrounding buildings. I also visited the Radhus (city hall). It was built very much like a palace. Just outside was a statue of Hans Christian Anderson. His lap was highly polished due to all the children who climb up on it. Just across the street in my photo of the statue is the Tivoli Gardens.

Once we left Copenhagen, we drove through the countryside of Denmark to cross the border into Germany.

Next time –Germany & Poland revisited.

The Borsen
Christiansborg Palace
Another view of Christiansborg Palace
The square in front of the palace
My knight
Nyhavn
A lantern boat on the right
More of Nyhavn
The Little Mermaid
Amalienborg Palace
Another part of Amalienborg Palace
Changing of the Guard
Rosenborg Palace
Tivoli Gardens
Radhus
Courtyard of Radhus
Hans Christian Anderson statue

August 11, 2019

Return to Croatia

After a fascinating and sobering visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina while on a 2012 tour to Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia, we returned to Croatia to visit its gorgeous Plitvice Lakes National Park. Located in a very mountainous area, the park consists of roughly sixteen lakes connected by rivers, streams and loads and loads of waterfalls. The waterfalls mostly flow over travertine and they are every place you look. Although humans have lived in the area for thousands of years, the park was never fully conquered by them.

We rode in our tour coach to the edge of one of the lakes and then took a small ferry boat that was pulled across the lake (no motors allowed). From there, you walk on dirt paths next to the rivers, lakes and falls until the paths disappear and you are walking on suspended paths of wooden logs over the water.

At one point on the wooden path, the waterfalls were cascading down towards me on the one side and dropping way below me on the other. With railings being somewhat intermittent at this point, this made me a tad nervous. But I took a deep breath, said a few prayers and kept going. The whole park was incredibly beautiful. I kept taking photos and videos as we continued moving ever further down into the valley.

Finally we reached the valley floor where we were completely surrounded by the mountains, the waterfalls and the pools of water that then dove underground. How did we get out? A switchback trail up one of the mountains. It rose gradually, so it wasn’t too difficult to climb. We also stopped at several points along the way for more photos. At the top, we were met by our tour coach and taken to our hotel, which was located within the park. Unfortunately the restaurant within the park had burned down that morning, so we needed to leave the park to get some dinner.

The next day we headed for the capitol of Croatia, Zagreb. Settled by the Romans, Zagreb has been continually inhabited ever since. It was quite far inland in a mountainous region. In 1094, the settlement was named Zagreb and its Hungarian ruler began building its cathedral.

We took a walking tour of the Old Town. As we reached the Stone Gate, we found a lovely statue of Saint George and the Dragon. We continued up hill to Saint Mark’s Square. The centerpiece of the square is the 13^th century Saint Mark’s Church. The south portal contains several Gothic statues. The roof is decorated in colorful tiles.

The Croatian Parliament building is also located in the square. A short distance away is a plaque dedicated to Nikola Tesla, who was born in a small town in what eventually would become Croatia.

Now we were going downhill again. As we neared the Tower of Lotrscak, we encountered some girls dressed in the Croatian national costume selling flags and other souvenirs. I bought a flag for fun. It was May Day, which is like Labor Day in Europe. The tower dates to the 13^th century and was part of the fortified walls that once surrounded the part of the city that was at the top of this hill, including Saint Mark’s Square. A cannon is fired from the top of the tower at noon daily. This was a real cannon, not a recording of one.

From the wall at the foot of the tower, we had a great view of the lower part of the city. Going down some stairs from the wall, we found restaurants below to have some lunch. Then we went on to Jelacic Square where a political rally was taking place. The square was laid out in the 17^th century and was the main square of the city.

We spent the night in Zagreb and then headed back to Ljubljana the following morning. That was our last day of the tour.

Next time – the start of another 2012 trip – this time to the Baltics and Scandinavia. 2012 ended up being my last year of taking multiple trips in the same year. I changed jobs at the end of the year and the amount of vacation time I had coming to me each year also changed.

Ferry to main part of park
Some of the waterfalls
More waterfalls
On one side of floating wooden path
On other side of wooden path
View from switchback
Zagreb Cathedral
Interior
One of the squares in Zagreb
St George near the Stone Gate
St Mark’s Church
Gothic statues
Croatian Parliament
Plaque celebrating Nicola Tesla
Looking back up the street
Croatian national dress
Tower of Lotrscak
View from wall of lower part of city

August 5, 2019

Bosnia & Herzegovina

On a 2012 tour to Slovenia, Croatia & Bosnia, once we left Dubrovnik, we drove to Bosnia. Bosnia traces its first human settlement back to the Neolithic Age. At that time, its population was mainly Illyrian and Celtic. Then the Slavic people populated the country from the 6^th century to the 9^th century. Bosnia was finally established in the 12^th century and became the Kingdom of Bosnia in the 14^th century. At this point, it was annexed into the Ottoman Empire and became a Muslim country with strong Turkish influences. Even after becoming part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Bosnia remained Muslim.

It’s very difficult to summarize the Bosnian War (1992 – 1995), but the way it was explained on the tour was that Serbia wanted the territory that Bosnia occupied and felt that they were entitled to take it because Bosnia was Muslim. So Serbia waged several bombing campaigns and sieges against Bosnia, seriously devastating the entire country and attempted to carry out an ethnic cleansing.

Mostly mountainous, although the country’s formal name is Bosnia & Herzegovina, it is informally known as just plain Bosnia. The Neretva Gorges were the first part of the country we encountered. The Neretva is a major river running through the country.

Only a small part is on the Adriatic. It bisects Croatia, but gives Bosnia a tiny port. The rest of the country is landlocked and still had loads of landmines throughout as of 2012. There were signs all over the place warning people not to just go walking out into the countryside. There were still lots of properties that were abandoned. Not sure if the people just left for better parts and never returned or if they were killed.

The first larger settlement we encountered was Mostar in the region of Herzegovina. There were a lot of pockmarked and bombed out buildings in town. A public park had been turned into a cemetery when the city was under siege (normally cemeteries are outside of town). The year on most of the graves was 1993. This was so sad, as was the fact that so many of the people in the graves were relatively young.

We visited a Turkish house dating to the 1600s. The entrance was through a very plain, unassuming gate into a lovely courtyard. Some of the upstairs rooms were open to the elements and the courtyard. After leaving the house, we visited the Karagoz Bey Mosque – a relatively small mosque built in 1557.

The Stari Most, literally “old bridge”, also dates to 1557 (when it replaced an earlier wooden bridge). It looks like a smaller, plainer version of the Rialto Bridge in Venice. It was damaged during World War II and destroyed in the Bosnian War, but it had been fully restored by the time we saw it in 2012. People would dive from the middle. During free time, we had lunch in the area next to the bridge. I also explored a nearby bazaar.

On our way to Sarajevo (which means “palace in the park”), we saw a bridge that had been blown up in World War II and left as it was when it collapsed. We also saw several teepees made of hay. These were used by shepherds and/or farmers when they sometimes stayed overnight out in the fields.

We had a walking tour of the old town of Sarajevo, which was founded by the Ottoman Turks in the 1400s. The old town is dominated by a very large bazaar. I ended up getting a single-handed Turkish-style sword with a curved blade, a horse-head pommel on the handle, and a red tassel. It currently hangs above the built-in glassware cabinet in my dining room.

We visited the Emperor’s Mosque from the 1400s. It was the first mosque to be built in Bosnia after it was conquered by the Ottomans.

Although Muslim, Sarajevo became home to a number of Sephardic Jews who were invited to relocate there after being expelled from Spain at the end of the 15th century. They had a thriving community in the part of town near where the bazaar is located up until the Nazis overran the city during World War II and sent 85% of the the Jewish population to their deaths in concentration camps.

We also visited the place where Archduke Ferdinand and his wife were killed by a 19-year-old Bosnian Serb in 1914, beginning World War I. There were a couple attempts with bombs by some of the other conspirators while the Archduke was on his way to the City Hall to give a speech. But one bomb didn’t even go off and the other damaged the wrong car. It was on the way back from City Hall that the car containing the Archduke and his wife stopped to turn around (it was going the wrong way) when the assassin stepped onto the running board of the open car and shot them both point blank.

The hotel we were staying in had been destroyed during the Bosnian War and rebuilt. At dinner time, we visited a “han”, which is the city version of a caravanserai (a Middle Eastern roadside inn), built in the 16th century. It could accommodate 300 people and 70 horses at one time back in its day. It had a restaurant where we had our dinner.

When leaving town the next morning, we went by the Olympic Park from the 1984 Winter Olympics. Very sadly, it had been turned into a massive cemetery during the Siege of Sarajevo.

Next time –we return to Croatia to see Plitvice National Park and Croatia’s capitol city, Zagreb.