The Baltics 2012: Saint Petersburg, Part 1

The three biggest reasons why I chose the Baltics tour were: 1) Denmark – from which my mother’s father’s parents came, 2) Latvia – from which one of my sister-in-law’s parents came, and 3) St Petersburg – just because it was St Petersburg. Back in the 1980s, my mom had gone to Moscow, St Petersburg and Kiev with a church group. It was still the Soviet Union at that time. But it wouldn’t be too many years before the dissolution in 1991.

Founded by Peter the Great in 1703, St Petersburg was the capitol of Imperial Russia. The capitol was moved to Moscow in 1918 after renaming St Petersburg as Petrograd in 1914. Then, in 1924, Petrograd was renamed Leningrad. The name went back to St Petersburg in 1991 at the time of the dissolution of the Soviet Union. So, when Mom visited, it was called Leningrad.

She had been taken to Lenin’s tomb when she was there. By the time I got there, he had been buried. I took a photo of a Subway Sandwich shop to show her how much had changed since she was there. However, not everything had changed.

Before leaving for the trip, I had to purchase an entry visa for $400. This involved filling out a voluminous form with much more information than I felt that they needed. They asked for the address of every place I had ever lived my entire life. For every place I ever worked my entire life, they wanted the name of the company, the address, the name of my boss, and what I did there. They also wanted the name, address, and years of attendance for every school. At the University level, they wanted what I had majored in as well. I did the best I could and then had a photo taken without me smiling. They didn’t want anyone smiling in the accompanying photo. I guess being happy was not an option.

On the Estonian side of the border, things took barely any time at all. If we had blinked, we would have missed that side of the border. The Russian side was another matter.

Only a handful of us were from the US. The rest were from the UK, Australia, New Zealand and Canada. However, they parked us over to the side and kept us waiting for hours while they let several other buses and tour coaches through. Despite all of the forms filled out to get the entrance visa, we had many more forms to fill out. Then we needed to be interviewed one by one.

Drug sniffing dogs were sent through the coach while bomb detectors and cameras were slipped under the coach. Our luggage was all removed and we had to open it for inspection. As we completed our inspections and interviews, we were sent into a room where we were watched over by armed guards until we were all done. Then they had us sit there for a while longer before we could get back on our coach. In the meantime, we ate the bag lunches that Andrej had purchased for us before leaving Estonia. Obviously this was just their modus operandi.

Also, while waiting, we adjusted our watches due to Russia not participating in Daylight Savings Time. At that point, we were nine hours ahead of Minneapolis. By comparison, London is six hours ahead of Minneapolis. We adjusted our watches several times on this trip.

After reaching Saint Petersburg, we were given a basic tour of most of the main sites of the city. Our only stop was at St Isaac’s Square. There we could see St Isaac’s Cathedral, Mariinsky Palace, and an equestrian statue of Czar Nicholas I in the center.

Dedicated to St Isaac of Dalmatia, the cathedral was a museum during the years of the Soviet Union. It has since been restored as a cathedral. The Mariinsky Palace was built by Nicholas I for his daughter and her husband as a wedding gift and is located directly across the square from St Isaac’s Cathedral.

St Petersburg had lots of people dressed in 18th century Imperial Russia costumes at various historic sites throughout the city. We encountered our first one at St Isaac’s Square. Since she was the most elaborately costumed, I have included the photo I took of her.

We headed from the square to our hotel and dinner. We started the next day with the Spit of Vasilyevsky Island. The Kunstkammer was the first museum in Russia and was founded by Peter the Great in 1727. It was essentially a “cabinet of curiosities”. The most gruesome exhibit was and still is the severed head of the brother of a former mistress of Peter the Great who had been executed for embezzlement.

A pair of Rostral columns, originating in Grecian and Roman times to celebrate a military or naval victory, stood not far from the museum in front of the former stock exchange (the Borse). The island also contained an Academy of Sciences, a Naval Academy and the Cruiser Aurora.

The Aurora was built in 1900 and saw service in the Russo-Japanese War and World War I. By World War II, it was used as a training ship. After the war, it was permanently moored on the Neva River and turned into a museum ship. During World War I, one of the first events of the Bolshevik Revolution was a mutiny that took place onboard the Aurora.

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Czar Alexander II was blown to bits in 1881. It was gorgeous and everything that an ornate Russian Orthodox Church should be. The interior contained more mosaics than any other church in the world, so the church has been used as a mosaics museum.

Our last visit before lunch was to the Peter and Paul Fortress, which was the original citadel created by Peter the Great in 1703. There was a mint, a prison, and a mausoleum for non-reigning Romanovs. The mausoleum was created because the Cathedral was getting too full of tombs.

Before visiting the Cathedral, we looked at a statue of Peter the Great. The statue was considered to be an accurate portrayal. The Czar was about six feet eight in height, but was not in proportion for his height. His hands, feet, shoulders and head were all smaller than they should have been.

Inside of the Peter and Paul Cathedral, which was definitely crowded, we saw loads of tombs, including Peter the Great, Catherine I (his wife), Elizabeth I (his daughter), and Catherine II the Great (his other daughter). A special room with the remains of Czar Nicholas II and his family was set to the side. DNA tests had been performed on the remains they found and all – the Czar, his wife, Alix, and their children, Olga, Tatiana, Maria, Anastasia, and Alexei – were properly identified and interred.

The remains of Alexander II were in a rose-colored tomb with his wife next to him in a black tomb. The newest tomb (other than the memorial to Nicholas II and his family) contained Nicholas II’s mother. A quartet of men did some acapella singing in a side chapel.

Lunch was a cruise on the Neva River. En route to the boat, we passed the Admiralty, an equestrian statue of Peter the Great, and a couple of Egyptian statues. Periodically during lunch, I had to take a break from the food (which included borscht) to take photos of what we were passing. Smolny Cathedral, which was attached to a convent, and Kresty Prison, which began life in the 1730s as a wine warehouse and later converted to a prison, rebuilt and expanded, were two of the buildings we saw from the river that we hadn’t seen during other trips around town. During the Soviet era, Kresty Prison became notoriously overcrowded with ten times the number of prisoners for which it was designed. We could also see a statue of Lenin in front of the rail station.

Next time – more of St Petersburg, including the Winter Palace/ Hermitage Museum.