Viking Cruises – Page 2 – A Traveling Fool

September 2, 2024

Viking British Isles Explorer Cruise: Irish Baking at Ballyknocken Farmhouse in County Wicklow, Ireland

After two days at sea, we had no problems at Dublin on what was Day 5 of the tour. We dropped anchor just off the Dun Loaghaire Marina and tendered to the dock. The tenders looked rather tiny from the outside, but had loads of room inside. The pilot sat up above. There were plenty of people to help us on and off. But the sea was quite calm, so I didn’t have any issues. However, when a gentleman offers his arm, I take it.

I had visited Dublin before, including during a trip around all of Ireland, so a good share of the shore excursions were things I had already done. There were two that especially intrigued me, but they overlapped so I needed to choose. Ballyknocken Farmhouse Baking won out. TV chef and food writer, Catherine Fulvio, has a cookery school at her farm in County Wicklow.

I tend to watch many of the cooking shows on Saturday mornings on PBS here in the states. I figured it was a good chance to experience a live cooking lesson and spend some time on an Irish farm all in one excursion. I also have some Irish ancestry on my maternal side although I have not yet been able to find out from which part of Ireland they came. The census records and the ship records merely say “Ireland”. This was my maternal grandmother’s father’s mother (a great great grandmother).

In addition to the culture, people and history of a place, I also enjoy learning something new such as how to cook or bake something that epitomizes the location. We were scheduled to learn about baking scones. But, since we were a tad early and she had loads of time with us, she also chose to teach us how to make Irish Soda Bread. Afterwards, we ate both. We had some homemade Rhubarb and Ginger Jam with the scones and some tea. It was all delicious. The scones were much lighter than what I had on the ship. They were more like the recipe I use from my grandmother’s cookbook. I intend to make both of the new recipes myself.

After our lesson and tasting were over, we were invited to explore the farm. There were some sheep out in one area. They didn’t seem to have any interest in us. But they were probably quite used to constant visitors and thought to themselves, “Oh no. Not another bunch of city folks.” There were about 30 of us in the group, mostly from the US.

We had a lovely drive back to the port. Taking the tender back to the ship, I was on the side where I could get a photo of a docked three-masted schooner. I actually sailed on one when I was in Halifax, Nova Scotia, and have toured many others in various countries.

I shot some photos of our ship as the tender returned to it. Too bad the Guinness tour was at the same time as this one. It would have been nice to follow up with a pint there. I just needed to order one with my very light lunch (a small salad with some fruit on the side) on board the ship.

I met up with Sherry and Christine for the evening lecture on the Bayeux Tapestry, by Dr Caroline Malloy. She had some tidbits of information that I hadn’t ever heard or read before. The ship also had representations of the tapestry all over it.

I had visited the tapestry on my Grand France River Cruise in 2021. They didn’t allow photos, but they did allow me to film it. My video camera is a direct to DVD recorder. Whatever I film goes straight onto a little disc that I can just pop into a DVD player to watch. I filmed pretty much the whole thing, only pausing when someone decided to walk or stand in front of me.

At dinner, they were serving lobster tails. I had two with some grilled vegetables and a delicious Chenin Blanc. Sherry was a definite carnivore, usually getting a steak and a baked potato. Christine favored pizza although she did often peruse everything first and then make a decision. She frequently ended up with a pretty eclectic mixture of foods. I mostly went for any fish or seafood they were serving, although I did occasionally go for some meat. Then I usually got some veggies with whatever I got and maybe some fruit salad. The variety at the World Café worked the best for all of us.

Next time – A private tour of a Welsh castle being restored near Holyhead.

August 25, 2024

Viking British Isles Explorer Cruise: Hey, Weren’t We Supposed to Dock in Dover?

I was all set to have a great day when we docked at Dover. I had booked an excursion to the Shepherd Neame Brewery in the medieval market town of Faversham. This was touted as Britain’s oldest beer maker. Then, in the afternoon, I was to spend my time in Canterbury. The excursion included a short orientation walk of Canterbury’s main sites followed by plenty of free time to really explore the Cathedral.

I had already gotten up, dressed, and had my breakfast before finding out that, due to high winds and choppy seas, we would not be able to dock. Instead we would have an unexpected day out at sea. Since my stateroom was on the Starboard side of the ship, facing the coast, I thought that perhaps I would be able to see various parts of the English coast as we went by. But no such luck. We were far enough out to sea that it wasn’t possible to recognize any landmarks.

Unless I wanted to hang a “do not disturb” sign on my door, I needed to vacate the room for housekeeping to be able to do their jobs. I grabbed the book I had been reading on the plane and headed down to the Living Room. There I had a hot chocolate with Bailey’s, which I leisurely sipped on while reading a novelized version of life in southern England shortly after William the Conqueror conquered the country.

Soon we had newly printed schedules in hand and could plan our onboard activities for the day. I was interested in an 11am lecture by resident historian Dr Caroline Malloy on “The Vikings”. One of the reasons I had selected this trip was because I had discovered through both genealogical research and DNA testing that I had some Viking ancestry. Some of those ancestors had moved from Norway to Orkney in the 9^th century. Then, once Orkney became part of Scotland in the 15^th century (and after a lot of intermarriage), they moved down into mainland Scotland before some of them headed down even further to Northumbria and Yorkshire. On this trip, after roaming around the UK and Ireland, we would head on up to Norway.

On the way to the lecture, I ran into Christine and Sherry from the day before. They were also interested in the lecture, which turned out to be quite fascinating. We sat together and then went to lunch. Since I had eaten so much the night before and had a pretty decent breakfast, I had a light lunch. After lunch I had a swim and then rested for a bit before our next lecture at 4:30pm.

By the way, Viking helmets that have been excavated in archaeological digs have not sported horns. So, Minnesota Vikings – not accurate.

Since we were at sea, the shops were open. Out at sea, they were both tax free and duty free.

I love amber. I had first purchased some jewelry of that semiprecious stone while on a tour of the Baltic countries back in 2012. The amber in the shop onboard ship was all from Poland. It came in many different shades with many different styles of settings. All of it was gorgeous. Most of the amber I already had was in a honey color. I quickly found some earrings in a more reddish shade and then hunted for a ring to go with them. I slipped these finds into my purse after giving them my stateroom number (they would be charged to the credit card attached to the stateroom) and headed for the next lecture.

This one was on “Enjoying Jane Austen and Her Characters”. I got there a little early and ordered a Lemon Drop Martini to sip on while waiting for Sherry and Christine to join me and the lecture to begin. The guest lecturer was a fellow named Dennis Fitzsimonds. He was there setting up and so we ended up having a chat about Ms Austen between the two of us. He was knowledgeable on the subject and I learned a few things I didn’t already know.

The lecture by Russell Lee that evening was called “Baa, Baa, Black Sheep – How Wool Transformed the World”. His lectures were quite entertaining as well as informative. The California ladies and I got into the habit of attending them every evening. It also wasn’t long until the wait staff knew my drink of choice and stateroom number by heart. I had my usual cocktail (just one) every evening to sip during the lecture. They were refreshing and acted as the perfect appetizer for dinner (which we would have once the lecture ended).

The following day was a scheduled day at sea. So two days in a row of lectures, the pool, and shopping. Not a lot of shopping though. I did attend a lecture on amber by Gabriella from the Baltic Amber Shop. Afterwards I spent some time with her in the shop looking at some green amber pieces and a golden-colored bracelet and some earrings to go with it. Then I was done. I figured I now had enough amber for any occasion. I guess I’d better stay out of Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia for a while.

Each afternoon at 4pm tea was served in the Wintergarden. This was a full afternoon tea with a variety of sandwiches and desserts plus whatever tea met your fancy. My choice was Darjeeling. The only quibble I had was that they had only one type of scone – raisin. I don’t like raisins. But I was quite full anyway, so I only had half of it and picked out the raisins. No dinner needed.

That evening it seemed that everyone I encountered complimented me on my beautiful purple dress. Only it wasn’t a dress. It was a top that I used to wear with jeans. However, I had lost about three sizes in weight so, when I took a selfie (worn with some black jeans) and sent it out to friends, the consensus was that the top was now a dress. Time to switch out the black jeans for some black lace leggings.

Next time – Learning about Irish baking at Ballyknocken Farmhouse in County Wicklow (near Dublin).

August 19, 2024

Viking British Isles Explorer Cruise: London

My flight left the US on the 3^rd of July, arriving on the 4^th. It was the day of the UK General Election. The only other time I had been in Britain for a General Election was back in 1997 when the Labour party won by a landslide and Tony Blair began his first term as Prime Minister. I was very interested to see how this election would turn out.

Upon arrival at London’s Heathrow airport, after customs and luggage, I was met by a representative from Viking Cruises. This was my first time with Viking. I had done a couple of river cruises before: the Nile in Egypt with Movenpick, and a Grand France river cruise with Avalon Waterways. I had also gone on one other small ocean-going ship in the Aegean (to Greek Islands and Turkey) with a French line, Louis Cristal. With those ships, there were no children, no casinos, and an emphasis on learning the history, art and culture of the places we would visit. The same applied to Viking.

The ship, Viking Neptune, was supposed to be docked at Greenwich. But when docking the day before, the winds were too high for them to do so. We took the northern M25 loop to Tilbury. I had been to London many times before and had visited Greenwich several times in the past as well. I really like Greenwich and had planned to spend my day there, wandering around and exploring. Ended up spending the day mainly on the ship, exploring that and taking photos.

My stateroom was a Deluxe Veranda on Deck Five. I was just two decks directly above the tenders/lifeboats. The World Café, which served breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffet meals opened early for lunch. I love the idea of a buffet on such trips as I can choose what I want and how much. I tend to prefer smaller amounts of a variety of dishes — usually seafood or fish with a couple of vegetables, some fruit, and possibly a salad. If I have dessert, it is usually a sorbet or a mousse of some kind. They had some delicious salmon with grilled vegetables. I had some fruit salad and some seafood salad with that. I was also served a welcome drink involving bourbon and a premium Riesling. I had signed up for the Silver Spirits package so I could have better wines and an occasional cocktail.

I could get into my stateroom at 1pm. My cases were already there waiting for me. I unpacked and got organized for both dinner (the relatively casual dress code did involve something a bit nicer than a T-shirt and jeans) and the following day. The tickets for the shore excursions for which I had signed up were there, except for the excursion to Scone Palace in Edinburgh. Not enough people had signed up for that one. They provided me with an automatic refund. I could also sign up for a different excursion right there from my room. Had a nice early dinner too and, since I didn’t sleep on the plane from the States, turned in a bit early.

I had signed up for the walking tour of Greenwich for the following day. That was the only excursion they had available for that day and it was included (free of charge). Even though I had been to Greenwich many times on previous visits, I still wanted to go on the tour. You never know. I could learn something new or see something I hadn’t seen before. Since we hadn’t been able to dock at Greenwich, I was especially glad I had signed up. We were loaded onto a clipper that would take us up the Thames and deliver us at Greenwich’s dock.

I met a couple of very nice ladies from Long Beach, California (Sherry and Christine) and ended up hanging out with them for much of this excursion and quite often for presentations and dinner on the ship.

We started with the Cutty Sark. My mom and I had toured this ship on our very first trip to London in 1983 – long before the fire in 2007 that nearly destroyed her. I visited her again in 2016. The ship was named after a witch in the Robert Burns poem “Tam o’Shanter”. The figurehead of the ship is supposed to represent the witch. The Cutty Sark was built in 1791 as one of the last of the tea clippers. Although it was one of the last, it was one of the fastest. But, when steamships took over the tea trade, the Cutty Sark was then used for the wool trade from Australia. After that, she became a training ship and was finally put in permanent dry dock in Greenwich as a museum.

From there we went to the statue of Sir Walter Raleigh in front of the Visitor Centre and then to the Old Royal Naval College. This was the site of Greenwich Palace, which was the birthplace of Henry VIII, Mary I and Elizabeth I. Then we went past the National Maritime Museum to the Queen’s House. This was built in 1616 on the grounds of Greenwich Palace and is now part of the National Maritime Museum. From there we looked up the hill at the Royal Observatory. Then came the one new thing that I had not ever seen before. Nelson’s ship in a bottle.

Throughout all of this, the heavens would periodically open up and drop some fairly heavy rain on us. A few minutes later, the rain would stop only to come gushing down again a few minutes after that. I was wearing a rain jacket with a hood that was strapped down over a baseball cap, allowing me to take my photos either by camera or phone without having to deal with an umbrella. Although I was surprised to encounter such chilly weather in July, all of my prior trips to the UK had taught me to always be prepared for the potential of rain, snow, hail or all three.

Our last stop was to take a quick photo of St Alfege Church. The church was built on the supposed spot where St Alfege was martyred in 1012. The church was built around 1290. Henry VIII was baptized there in 1491. The present church was rebuilt in 1712-1714 after the medieval church collapsed due to the number of burials both inside and out.

By the time we returned to the clipper to head back to our ship in Tilbury, the rain was coming down in torrents again. I still managed to capture a few photos of the O2 Arena and the Intercontinental O2 Hotel plus the Thames Barrier between the raindrops.

When I got back to the ship about 2:30pm, I found that I had a fairly relaxing afternoon ahead of me as the ship set sail for Dover. I also found that Kohari (the fellow who was looking after me and my stateroom) had provided me with some cans of orange Fanta in my fridge. I don’t tolerate caffeine and so don’t drink the usual sodas provided. Very nice of him.

I decided to take a shower and really dress up for dinner that night. I had a black camisole with a lightly beaded sheer top over it, plus some slinky black slacks. For dinner, I had signed up for a five-course dinner at The Chef’s Table restaurant inspired by China’s Cantonese and Hualyang cuisines with special wine pairings. The courses were as follows:

Hot & Sour Soup (Cantonese style) with Martin Codax Mara Martin (Godello) from Monerrei, Spain
Fried Prawns (crispy garlic & chili) with Vinologist (Chenin Blanc) from Swartland, South Africa
Coconut (lemongrass & ginger infused)
Wok-Fried Beef (black pepper sauce, rice in lotus leaf with Altano Organic (Tinto Roriz) from Douro Valley, Portugal
Chilled Mango Cream (pomelo and sago) with Broadbent Madeira from Madeira Island, Portugal

Was feeling just a wee bit squiffy afterwards. I usually have one or two glasses of wine with dinner, but not four. The ship was sailing and I wasn’t sure if the ship’s movement was the problem or the four glasses of wine. I decided it was both.

Next time – Hey, weren’t we supposed to dock at Dover?