Temple of Athena Nike – A Traveling Fool

After spending the morning in Chios, we returned to the ship for cocktails and lunch. We were supposed to go to Mykonos in the afternoon. But when we arrived, we encountered a storm which wouldn’t allow us to take the tender from the ship to the port. Like Santorini, the harbor couldn’t handle large ships and the sea was too choppy for the tenders. I took a photo of Mykonos as we went by.

This was the start of a big storm, so the ship’s captain decided to just head back to Lavrion. Our little group had signed up for a tour of Mykonos plus dinner for our last night on the cruise. Instead, the ship changed both the dinner and the show to two seatings each. They advised women not to wear high heels and everyone to stay away from the open decks. It soon began to rain heavily, so nobody wanted to be out on the open decks anyway.

Although the ship was a little rocky, I didn’t think it was as bad as the storm when on that overnight ferry from Helsinki to Stockholm a few years earlier. I just stayed near the walls where I could grab a railing when needed. Fortunately the rocking was not too violent and I wasn’t tossed around during the night like I had been on the ferry. So I slept well.

We arrived in Lavrion earlier than planned. Lavrion is itself an interesting location. It was the site of the oldest silver mine in the world, dating back to prehistoric times. The silver from that mine financed the Athenian fleet that was victorious over the Persians in 480 BC. It also financed the buildings on the Acropolis in Athens.

We headed for our hotel in Athens (the same one as when we arrived), but they weren’t ready for us. They also didn’t have any place to lock up anyone’s luggage. So we were stuck with sitting in the lobby and waiting as one by one our rooms were made ready. Yep. You guessed it. Mine was one of the last.

By the time I got into my room, everyone else had already departed for whatever they had planned for our last day in Greece. I had a list of options, but only really had time for the Acropolis Museum. I have included here a photo of the museum that I took from the Acropolis when we were there at the beginning of the tour.

This museum was built to house the artifacts found on the Acropolis and on the slopes. It replaced a much smaller museum that had been built on the Acropolis itself back in the 19^th century. Because it was being built over some Roman and Byzantine ruins, it was perched on top of pillars with glass floors and some open areas through which the ancient ruins can be seen.

Once inside, the first space has a sloping glass floor through which parts of the excavation below can be seen. Displayed on both sides are artifacts found on the slopes of the Acropolis. This leads to a staircase representing the ascent to the Acropolis. There were a couple of Athena Nike statues along the route as they would have been at the Acropolis itself.

Once up the hill and stairs comes a very large hallway of statues from the Archaic period. This would have been from the 7^th century BC through the end of the Persian Wars (roughly 480/79 BC). The statues were scattered around on pedestals so they could be viewed from all angles.

From there you are supposed to go up an escalator to the Parthenon Gallery and see the other items on this floor on the way down. But I was very anxious to see the Caryatids from the Erectheion, so I sort of jumped the gun, moved out of the prescribed order of things and visited the ladies next. These are the originals. The statues on the Acropolis are copies.

I rejoined the plan from where I left off and went up to see the statues and friezes from the Parthenon itself. The level on which these pieces were housed, had floor to ceiling glass walls. Views of the Acropolis and the Parthenon from there were amazing. I kept taking photos of those views as well as of the beautiful art.

On the way down, the last grouping was from the 5^th century BC to the 5^th century AD. There were some great statues and pottery from that era as well. There was one bust that I thought had a very pleasant, gentle-looking face. They actually knew who he was — Tiberius Julius Sauromates II. He was a Roman Client King of the Bosphorus Kingdom (which was just north of the Black Sea) from 174 to 210 AD. Not much else is known about him other than that.

I had a good view of the entrance from up there when I went over to the windows to sit down for a bit. Somewhere along the way my left foot had begun to hurt. I reconnoitered with my museum map, deciding to have some lunch at the cafeteria one floor down and then check out the shop before heading back to the hotel.

On my way back to the hotel, I encountered Barbara, Roberta and Chris. Chris wasn’t feeling well and wanted to return to the hotel, so I escorted her back. The four of us planned to meet up in the hotel lobby later to go to dinner together. In the meantime back at the hotel, I pulled out an ace bandage and my folding cane. My foot was really hurting.

We had a delicious Greek dinner at a café near the Acropolis Museum. We toasted our time in Greece and headed back to the hotel to get everything ready for our departure the next day.

When I returned home, I found that I had a stress fracture in my foot and ended up in a big, black boot for the next couple of months. It matched the sling I got in another week from planned surgery on my left shoulder.

I didn’t take another trip for a couple of years until I flew to NYC to see the Royal Shakespeare Company perform Richard II. From there I flew to Edinburgh and then took the train down to London. That trip begins next time.

In early May of 2014, I took a 16 day trip to Greece – the first eight days would be on the mainland and the last eight would be on a cruise of the Aegean. The tour would start and end in Athens.

Athens is one of the world’s oldest cities with evidence of human habitation dating back as far as somewhere between the 11^th and 7^th centuries BC and recorded history spanning 3,400 years. Named for the goddess Athena, classical Athens was a very powerful city-state. Eventually it became the leading city of all Greece.

Once I arrived in Athens, I was picked up by a driver at the airport. When we got to central Athens, the traffic was insane and the driver continually crossed himself as he drove. On the one hand, it was humorous, but on the other it was necessary. To keep from having multiple mini heart attacks, I kept my eyes on the driver and off of what the other drivers were doing. I also said several prayers.

Due to various delays in flights on the way, I didn’t get to the hotel (which was near the Acropolis) until a quarter to 6pm with the tour group meet and greet at 6pm. I basically just got into the room and opened my cases for the contents to breathe before I headed back downstairs.

Met Kathleen, Leslie and John during the gathering and Ivy and Heather after. All six of us walked to a nearby grocers to get some bottled water and snacks for dinner so we could spend our time getting ready for the following day and then get a good sleep. We wanted to be fully awake for our day in Athens.

We began our tour at a former palace (built in 1843) which became the Hellenic Parliament in 1934. In the square in from of the parliament is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The tomb is guarded by the elite Presidential Guard. I love their uniforms, so I managed to shoot a quick photo out of the window of the tour coach.

The Academy of Arts & Sciences looks like an ancient Greek temple. We also took a look at Athens University and the National Library. Then we swung by the Acropolis. We found that the site was not yet open for business, so we visited nearby Mars Hill instead.

Mars Hill is the Roman name for the Hill of Ares; Ares being the Greek god of war and Mars the Roman version. This was the location of Ares’ trial by the other gods for the murder of one of Poseidon’s sons. It was also where Paul preached about the “unknown God”. It still has its ancient, original stairs in addition to a more modern staircase at another part of the hill. It also has some great views of the city.

Also viewed from Mars Hill (known in Greek as Areopagus) is the ancient agora (marketplace) of Classic Athens. The agora is a very large area with bits and pieces of various buildings and memorials, including a mint, an Odeon (theatre) and several temples.

Before returning to the Acropolis, we visited the Panathenaic Stadium, which was originally built in roughly 330 BC for the Panathenaic Games, which took place every four years. It is the only stadium in the world built entirely in marble. It was largely abandoned after the rise of Christianity in the 4^th century AD and finally excavated in 1869. For the first modern Olympics in 1896, it was used for the opening and closing ceremonies and for four of the nine events. It continues to be used as a stadium and as the place in Greece where the Olympic torch is handed over to the hosting nation of the Olympic Games for that year.

When we could finally visit the Acropolis, we gathered at the part of the base from which we could see the Temple of Athena Nike (427 – 424 BC) looming over us from above. Instead of the main entrance, we went up a narrow road with steps here and there that rose up towards the Temple of Athena Nike. Nike means victorious.

I really liked coming up an ancient road and steps from the side of the Acropolis instead of the main entrance. It was a different experience and allowed us to see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (161 BC) on our way up as we passed right next to it. We came off of the road just below the Temple of Athena Nike and so were able to enter through the Propylaia (the monumental gate, 437 – 432 BC). This gate controlled (and still controls) entrance to the Acropolis.

Evidence has been found of the existence of Mycenaean structures on the Acropolis in the late Bronze Age. Between then and when the current structures were built, numerous temples and other buildings were constructed.

From 460 to 430 BC, the Parthenon was constructed as a temple dedicated to Athena. It replaced an earlier temple that had been destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC. At the end of the 6^th century AD, it was converted to a Christian church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. During the Ottoman conquest in the 1460s, it was converted to a mosque. Its destruction came in 1687, when ammunition kept inside was ignited by Venetian bombardment during the Siege of the Acropolis. In the early 1800s, the Earl of Elgin carried much of the surviving sculptures away to Britain, supposedly with the permission of the ruling Ottomans. Restoration began in 1975.

Across the way was the Erectheion, built in 421 – 406 BC and dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. Mythology indicates that the structure enclosed both the mark in the rock made by Poseidon’s trident and the olive tree planted by Athena during the contest between them as to who would be the namesake of the city. A salt water well and tombs of some of the ancient kings were also on this site and enclosed within the building.

On the south side of the building is the Porch of the Caryatids. These are columns in the shape of women. Five of the six originals are in the Acropolis Museum while the sixth was taken by Lord Elgin to decorate his home. It was said that the remaining five, when they were still in place at the Erectheion, would wail at night because they missed their sister. Reproductions of all six Caryatids stand in place of the originals.

Over at the side where our hotel was located, we looked over the side to see our hotel, the Acropolis Museum, and the Theatre of Dionysius (6^th century BC) as well as some other ruins.

Next time — Marathon, Thebes, Mount Olympus, Meteora, and Thermopylae.

Tag: Temple of Athena Nike

Return to Athens

Athens