Tallinn – A Traveling Fool

We arrived in Parnu, Estonia by lunchtime. We had lunch together at a restaurant in the Old Town with a set menu – soup, main course, and dessert. It was quite good. Parnu is on a bay of the Gulf of Livonia in the Baltic Sea. The Old Town gave us some beautiful buildings to look at as we walked off that large lunch.

The town was founded circa 1251 by a bishop, destroyed around 1600, and then was rebuilt. It changed hands several times between the Poles, Lithuanians, Swedes and Russians, until becoming part of the newly formed country of Estonia after World War I. Like Latvia, Estonia was occupied by the Soviets, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again during World War II, ending up under Soviet rule after the war.

Parnu is mainly a resort town and vacation spot for Estonians, Finns, Russians, and Swedes. Its location provides beaches, water sports, and a very well laid out Old Town with loads of restaurants and hotels.

We arrived in Tallinn early evening. With civilization dating back 5,000 years, Tallinn itself was founded as a town in 1248 by the Danes. Estonia overall was civilized as far back as 9,000 years. Tallinn was also part of the Hanseatic League. Tallinn has never been raised or pillaged, but was bombed by the Soviets near the end of World War II. Despite that, most of the Medieval Old Town is intact and is considered to be the best preserved medieval architecture in Europe. As such, it is a World Heritage site.

Information Technology is a thriving industry in Estonia. Skype originated in Tallinn. The hotel had computers in the rooms, so I could send emails to folks back home. This was before I had a smartphone with internet capabilities (I got one of those in February of 2013).

We went into the Old Town (which wasn’t too far from our hotel) for a “Medieval Dinner”. The only thing that was Medieval about the dinner was the building, which was 14^th century. The Old Town is mainly pedestrian only, so we walked in from where the tour coach dropped us off and did a little bit of a tour before reaching the building where the dinner was being held by seeing the 13^th century St Nicholas Church and the Town Hall Square.

The Town Hall dates to the 13^th century with its tower dating to the 17^th century. It is the oldest town hall in the Baltics or Scandinavia and the last surviving Gothic Town Hall in Northern Europe. It has the coolest painted dragon gargoyles up near the roof (which you can see in the photo I have included). The square was originally the market square of the town and now has loads of restaurants. They also have a wonderful Christmas Market there every year. The restaurant we were visiting was in the cellar of one of the buildings on the square.

On our way back to the tour coach (which had moved elsewhere and parked after dropping us off) after dinner, we looked at some Medieval foundations viewable through glass windows in the street, and the Square of Freedom.

The following day, we started at the Upper Town (also known as Toompea). Toompea Castle is now used as government buildings, including Parliament. The population of Tallinn was a little over 50% ethnic Estonian and roughly 37% ethnic Russian with the rest of the people being a mixture of several different ethnic groups. There was a lovely Russian Orthodox church called the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in the Upper Town. It was built in the 1890s when Tallinn was part of the Russian Empire. The nearby Dome Church, was built by the Danes in the 13^th century and is the oldest church in Tallinn.

After visiting another amber shop (which had some earrings in gold, instead of the silver everyone else had), we went to a viewing area to see the Lower Town (called All-linn) below. We could also see out to the Baltic. Several ferries traveled back and forth daily from Tallinn to Helsinki, Finland – mostly bringing folks from Helsinki for the day as prices were much lower in Estonia than Finland. A certain amount of Estonians would travel to Helsinki in the morning for their jobs as salaries were higher in Finland.

We could also see the spire of St Olaf’s Cathedral. Although built in the 12^th century, the church burnt down several times over the centuries, so it isn’t at all original to the 12^th century any more. Otherwise it would have had the title of the oldest church in Tallinn instead of the Dome Church.

From Toompea, we took a long, steep cobbled road (named Pikk Jalg) down into the All-linn. When we arrived at the Town Hall Square, we met up with our local guide, Nikoli. His mother was ethnic Estonian, while his father was ethnic Russian. He was adorable and took a liking to me. Actually lots of tour guides do because I am always so interested in what they are talking about and usually have a pretty good understanding of the history of the place already. I also don’t give them much difficulty about anything. So I’m easy to deal with.

Just like Dubrovnik, Croatia, who claimed that they had the oldest pharmacy/ chemist/ apothecary in the world, Tallinn made the same claim regarding a building they had in their Town Hall Square. Actually they were both beat by the 12^th century pharmacy in Florence, Italy.

Nikoli gave us a walking tour of the Lower Town, which included a very lovely, but small luxury hotel with a Presidential Suite (and balcony). Then he led us into one of my favorite places in Tallinn – St Catherine’s Passage. We entered through a deep arch from behind St Catherine’s Church, which had been built 700 years ago. On one side of the passage had once been a monastery. Several Medieval gravestones were mounted on the wall on that side. The buildings on the other side had been turned into shops, bars and restaurants.

At the other end of the passage, was a narrow street between the city walls and some lovely Medieval houses. The round Helleman Tower was just outside of the passage. A little further along was an even older square tower. At this point, the walls had a covered, timber-framed top. One could walk along the top of the wall largely out of the elements.

When we reached the Viru Gates (which were also original), that was the end of the tour. Most of the group was staying in the area to have some lunch and then would join Nikoli for an optional tour of Tallinn’s Russian Museum. I wasn’t interested in the museum as we have a great Russian Museum in Minneapolis not far from my house. Heike also wasn’t interested in the museum, so we got on the tour coach, which was parked just beyond the Viru Gates and rode back to the hotel. We had lunch there, and then went for a walk in the general neighborhood of the hotel. Nikoli seemed disappointed that we weren’t joining him for the museum tour, but I’m sure he survived.

Next time – adventures in crossing the border into Russia (where they were still acting like they were the Soviet Union) and St Petersburg.