Split – A Traveling Fool

After leaving Ljubljana on a 2012 trip to Slovenia, Croatia & Bosnia, we drove along the Adriatic Coast in Croatia to get to the town of Zadar. I had been intrigued by Croatia because it was mostly along the coast and had a long history which was pretty much intact.

Although the area had been inhabited since the Paleolithic Age, the Croats themselves didn’t arrive until the 6^th century. In the meantime, prior to the advent of the Croats, the area that became Croatia underwent both Greek and Roman rule. When faced with possible Ottoman conquest in the 16^th century, Croatia asked Ferdinand I of Austria to come and be their king. Shortly after World War I, Croatia became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats & Slovenes. Then, after World War II, it became part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. In 1991, came the Croatian War of Independence.

Founded in the 9^th century BC and located in the part of Croatia known as Dalmatia, Zadar is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia. At different times it had been under Roman control and then Venetian control. The traces of both can still be seen. During its Roman era, the town was fortified with walls and gates, which are still partially there. The Venetians did quite a bit of building. Several of the houses and other structures they built are still there.

Our walking tour began at the 12^th century Cathedral of Saint Anastasia. Just outside of the church some children were using inline skates. The tour director made a comment about Rollerblade being a US company. Their headquarters originated in Minneapolis. Although the cathedral seemed kind of plain to me on the outside, but was quite lovely inside.

Nearby were the remains of a large Roman Forum. Some of the columns were still standing. But some of the columns had been incorporated in the base of the 9^th century church of Saint Donatus. It is a tall, circular church which is the largest pre-Romanesque church in Croatia and very simple in its design. Once upon a time it had a dome.

We came upon a house with a Venetian balcony on our way to the Sea Gate. Venetian-style balconies tend to jut out from the building and are fairly ornate. At some point, owners of this particular one had it enclosed.

We spent the night in Zadar and then left the following morning for Split. On the way to Split, we passed a very old castle perched on top of a rather steep mountain.

The second largest city in Croatia, Split was originally a Greek colony in the 3^rd or 2^nd century BC. Roman Emperor Diocletian built a palace there in the 4^th century AD. It later became a Byzantine city and still later a Venetian city.

Although called a palace, Diocletian’s residence is much more of a fortress. Originally it was right next to the Adriatic. But it is now set back a bit with a lovely beach between and a few restaurants. We began our tour by entering through the Coppur Gate (which used to be on the sea) and immediately went to the cellars of the palace, which were completely original. Other parts of the palace had some changes made to it over the centuries. Some of Game of Thrones was filmed there.

Diocletian had been a major persecutor of the early Christians and had put many of them to death. When he died in 312 AD, he was buried in a mausoleum in his palace in Split. We weren’t allowed to take photos in the mausoleum, which was quite tiny. I did very much enjoy the irony that his body was still there and that the mausoleum was turned into a church not too terribly long after Diocletian died. So, for centuries now, Christian services have been performed right in the presence of his body.

We exited through the Golden Gate. There was a dramatic, modern statue (1929) of Bishop Gregory of Nin (who lived in the 10^th century and was quite the revolutionary) outside of the gate in a park. A tower in the northeast corner of the structure is the most intact from Diocletian’s time. Over the centuries, people moved into parts of the palace. There are still multiple apartments in existence in the walls, towers and other parts of the building.

Walking around the outside of the palace, we saw the Iron Gate with a clock tower that I really liked. It was such a mix of original, medieval, and several other periods. The gate is still being used. Originally it was the military gate.

We walked to the 14^th century Narodni trg Pjaca (square), which looks very Venetian. Another nearby square, Vocini trg Pjaca, was 16^th century. In our free time, one of the Australian couples and I wandered through the market and bought some items for lunch. Then we sat next to the sea in a shaded area and ate lunch before we needed to get back on the tour coach.

Next time – beautiful, medieval, walled Dubrovnik.