Hermitage – A Traveling Fool

After lunch during our full day in Saint Petersburg, we paid a visit to the Hermitage Museum. The museum was founded by Catherine the Great in 1764 and was opened to the public in 1852.

The main building in which the museum now resides began life as the Winter Palace – the official residence of the Russian Emperors (Czars or Tsars) from 1732 to 1917. The original Hermitage was built to the side of the palace and was expanded to include the palace after the Russian Revolution. It now encompasses six buildings. Although the second largest museum in the world (the largest being the Louvre in Paris), only a fraction of the entire collection is on permanent display.

The entrance was through the Winter Palace. Several of the State Rooms of the palace were incorporated into the museum pretty much intact from when they were being used as State Rooms. After entering the palace portion of the museum, we encountered the Grand Staircase, a room with large papier mache chandeliers, the Small Throne Room and the Armorial Hall (aka the Gold Room). The Gold Room was gilded in real gold.

By the time we got to the 1812 Gallery (a hall dedicated to the War of 1812) the building gradually became less of a palace and more of a museum. I have included here more of the photos that I took of the expanse of rooms instead of photos of specific pieces of art. Some of the most famous paintings, such as the two by Leonardo da Vinci, were behind glass, making them difficult to photograph decently. They had loads of paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens as well as the Italian Renaissance artists.

There were rooms with tapestries and beautiful furniture and sculptures. There were a lot of items made from malachite (a green mineral that looks kind of like green marble), which is prevalent in Russia. On the third floor they had room after room of paintings by French Impressionists such as Pissarro, Monet, Sisley, Degas, Renoir, etc. Then there were the Egyptian and Classical antiquities, prehistoric art, jewelry and decorative arts (including a platter with a real snake incorporated into the design), a Knights’ Hall full of armor, German, Swiss, British and French fine art, Russian art, and on and on – even some modern art.

After exploring the heck out of this museum, we went outside and sat by the river to recover before heading back to the hotel to get ready for that evening’s entertainment. We were going to dinner and a show at the Nikoleavsky Palace. The palace was built in the early 1800s for the Grand Duke Nicholas (son of Czar Nicholas I). The Grand Duke was neither especially handsome nor particularly bright. He ended up squandering his money on mistresses and mortgaged the palace. He then went mad from cancer that had spread to his brain. His former palace was gorgeous, however, and the show was of Russian folk dancing. The food was served buffet style.

The next day we explored some more of the city. Along the Fontanki River, we saw (and I photographed) some soldiers. If the country had still been the Soviet Union, I wouldn’t have dared taken that photo.

Along the Nevsky Prospect, the main street of St Petersburg, we saw a statue of Catherine the Great with the Alexandrinsky Theatre behind her. The theatre was opened in 1832 for dramatic, ballet and opera performances. Also in the area were St Catherine’s Church, the Kazan Cathedral, and Stroganov Palace.

We took one last drive along the Neva River to say goodbye to the Winter Palace & the Hermitage, the Marble Palace (which was built by Count Grigory Orlov, a favorite of Catherine the Great, in 1768), the Saviour Transfiguration Cathedral, and a statue of a Roman Soldier before heading for the part of the city that was developed when it was known as Petrograd on our way out of St Petersburg.

After a drive in the Russian countryside, we left Russia (which was much, much easier than entering it had been) and crossed over into Finland.

Next time – Helsinki, Finland and the overnight ferry to Sweden.