Expedition Unknown – A Traveling Fool

Stonehenge is the most famous henge in the UK, but not the oldest or the largest. It was believed to have been built from 3000 to 2000 BC. But nobody is entirely certain of its purpose.

A henge is a circular or oval earthwork with a ditch inside. It may or may not have a stone circle involved. Pretty much all of the stone circles are inside of henges, but not all henges have stone circles. The UK has several of each. I have been to about six of them. Expedition Unknown did a very interesting program on them, including a search for the origins of the henge concept.

When there in 1983, Mom and I were unable to get very close to Stonehenge at all. We needed to take our photos from quite a distance and were restricted from circling the monument. The first photo I have included with this post is from about the same distance we were in 1984. This time I could get closer, but still not get into the circle of stones itself. I have since discovered that there are special tours that do allow small groups of people to get into the circle and touch the stones. I had one booked for later in 2020 as part of a London visit, but ended up having to cancel the trip.

Another change from 1984 to 2016 was that there were a couple of roads that went fairly close and a carpark from which people could walk to the site. The roads no longer get close and the carpark is gone. There is a visitor center some distance away with trams that take people to the site.

I was with another small group tour of just five. We were dropped off at the visitor center and told what time to be back to our little coach. I jumped on the tram and immediately went out to Stonehenge itself. I would check out the visitor center when I came back.

I took my time circling the henge, photographing and filming from every angle. As I circled, I was able to move in closer in parts until I got back to where I started. At one point I was able to cross into the henge, though not among the stones.

Upon returning to the visitor center, I explored the exhibits there and the gift shop. It is interesting what the various hypothesis’ have been as to the purpose of the henge and the stones. There have been human remains discovered within the henge. Was it a graveyard? Was it a site for ancestor worship? Was it a healing site? Was it for ritual sacrifice? Did people live there? They aren’t really sure who even built it. Whoever did left no records.

At Glastonbury, we visited the Abbey first. Of Anglo Saxon origins, Glastonbury Abbey was founded in the 7^th century and enlarged in the 10^th century. The Abbey has been connected to the Arthurian legend since the 12^th century when the monks claimed that it was Avalon and that Arthur was buried there. Joseph of Arimathea has also been associated with the abbey and was said to have visited and been the actual founder in the 1^st century.

There is no archaeological evidence of any visit by Joseph. He was said to have brought the Holy Grail with him and to have thrust his staff into the ground, which then turned into a thorn tree that miraculously bloomed twice a year. The tree has had a rough time through the centuries. The tree I photographed while there was from a cutting from earlier trees that were in turn from cuttings that were said to go all the way back to the original.

Then there is the Holy Grail. At Glastonbury is the Chalice Garden. It is said that the grail is buried under Glastonbury Tor and that makes the water flow red through the garden. Not that I want to put a damper on the beliefs of others, but when looking closely, it seems to me that the reddish color is on the rocks over which the water flows. The water itself appears to be quite normal in color. There is a high iron content in the water, however, that is said to be responsible for the rusty color of the rocks.

The Abbey has strong Arthurian connections. After an enormous fire in 1184, during a major rebuilding campaign, the graves of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere were reportedly discovered at Glastonbury Abbey. The location of those graves (which were moved to near the high altar) has since been lost. The monks claimed that Glastonbury was Avalon and pilgrimages to the Abbey increased as did the money to refurbish the buildings.

After the Abbey was ruined again in the early 18^th century, the kitchen was the only building left intact. It is also been referred to as the most intact medieval kitchen in existence.

We had the opportunity to climb Glastonbury Tor before heading into town for lunch. The Tor was once an island in the fens, which are a type of wetland, back in prehistoric times. There is evidence of an Iron Age settlement and of Dark Age occupation. The terracing of the hill hasn’t fully been explained although it is thought to be natural and not man made.

There was a wooden church built on the Tor which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1275. A new church, also dedicated to St Michael, was built in the 14^th century. Only the tower of that church remains since the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16^th century.

Although not the location of the graves that the monks of Glastonbury Abbey found and claimed as Arthur’s, it is the Tor that is mainly thought to be Avalon, the mystical island of King Arthur. The ancient Britons (the Celts who predated the Romans) supposedly called the Tor Ynys yr Afalon (meaning “The Isle of Avalon”). This was long before the legend of King Arthur existed. So was Arthur’s Avalon named after the Celts’ Afalon?

After a very good lunch in the town of Glastonbury, we set off for Avebury. On the way, we encountered a chalk horse on a hill and several burial mounds. One mound in particular was quite large. It is called Silbury Hill (roughly 2700 – 2340 BC) and is considered to be the largest prehistoric man made mound in Europe and one of the largest in the world.

There are loads of burial mounds (or barrows) throughout the UK with a very large number of them located in and around Wiltshire. These are called the Wessex Barrows.

The chalk horse was called the Westbury White Horse. It was created in the late 1600s (so not prehistoric like most of the other chalk figures in the area) supposedly to commemorate King Alfred’s victory in 878 AD at the Battle of Eoandun, which was fought there. The horse is just below the site of the Bratton Camp Iron Age hillfort.

A Neolithic henge, constructed in the third millennium BC, Avebury is an incredible site, although it is difficult to comprehend while on the ground in the midst of it. This is partially because of its size and partially because there is a village running through the middle of it. It is an enormous henge containing one huge outer stone circle (considered the largest in the world) and two smaller inner stone circles.

The henge was pretty much ignored for centuries until a village began just outside of it that eventually spread inside in the later medieval period. In the 14^th century some of the villagers decided that the stones should be pulled down and buried as the monument had been built by non-Christians.

One of the men involved ended up being crushed under a toppling 13 ton stone and was left where he was as the stone was too heavy for the others to get it off of him. In the 1930s, when the stone was being excavated to stand it back up again, the man’s skeleton was found. He had objects in his pockets that identified him as a barber/surgeon, so the stone was named The Barber’s Stone.

The stones were left alone for a few centuries after that until the rise of Puritanism in the area in the late 17^th century and early 18^th. This time, the emphasis was on completely destroying the stones. They would set them on fire and then pour cold water over them to create weaknesses in the stones that would allow them to break them apart with sledgehammers. Just makes you want to cry, doesn’t it?

Stonehenge is the only stone circle that I have been to where I could not walk amongst the stones and touch them. It is also the most famous and most visited of the sites, so they do what they do to protect it.

We had a fair amount of time at Avebury to explore the henge and the circles, say “hi” to the sheep, and even get a pint in the Red Lion Pub. Then we headed back to London. I needed to get ready to fly home the next day.

Next time – the start of another trip to the UK where I went on my own again and had some great adventures.

As with most of Greece, there is a lot of myth mixed with history when it comes to Mycenae. Mycenae was supposedly founded by Perseus, the slayer of Medusa (the woman with snakes for hair that would turn a person to stone if they gazed upon her face). He married Andromeda (after freeing her from the rock to which she was chained after her mother ticked off Poseidon) and founded the Mycenaean dynasty. Its heyday was roughly from 1510 to 1250 BC but the entire period from 1600 to 1100 BC in Greek history is termed as Mycenaean.

We began our visit with a large, circular tomb known as the Treasury of Atreus. Although named after Atreus (and sometimes even Agamemnon) the tomb dates back to an earlier age.

Atreus was the father of Agamemnon and Menelaus. Menelaus became the King of Sparta and husband of Helen of Troy. We all know about how Helen ran off with (or was kidnapped by) Paris and started the whole Trojan War. Agamemnon was King of Mycenae by that time and vowed to help his brother get his wife back.

After commanding the entire Greek forces against the Trojans, Agamemnon returned home to Mycenae only to be murdered by his wife, Clytemnestra’s lover. In the Mycenae Museum, we could see a replica of what has been referred to as the Mask of Agamemnon (the original was in Athens). It was found on the face of a body unearthed in one of the tombs surrounding Mycenae. The archeologist at the time figured it had to belong to Agamemnon. But more recently, it has been dated to about 300 years before the Trojan War, so too old to have belonged to Agamemnon. Several other artifacts from in and around Mycenae are also in the museum.

Once again, it was necessary to climb a mountain. In the photo I have of Mycenae from before I began to make my way up, you can see the tiny figures of the people who were snaking their way up switchback trails to the top. The main entrance (and you had to climb a ways to get to it) was the Lion Gate. It was erected in the 13^th century BC.

The area in front of the gate narrowed in order to limit the number of people who could enter at once. The gate was quite massive. The walls were referred to as “Cyclopean”. This was because the blocks of stone used to build them were so enormous that many felt only the race of giants known as the Cyclops could have built them.

Grave Circle A (which was discovered first) dates to the 16^th century BC, while Circle B is the older and dates to the 17^th – 16^th centuries. Both Grave Circles contained shaft graves. It was in Circle A that the mask originally believed to have been Agamemnon’s was discovered. The artifacts from Circle A showed a greater wealth than those from Circle B. After Circle A, the kings were buried in tholos (round) tombs like the Treasury of Atreus.

Although the tomb of Clytemnestra has been found, no tomb of Agamemnon has turned up as of yet. Since he was murdered by Clytemnestra’s lover at her behest, it could be that Agamemnon’s body was simply disposed of to get it out of the way. Could be a topic for “Expedition Unknown” to investigate.

The Palace was at the top of the acropolis. Not much was there, just the low remains of a few walls. I could tell, however, that it had been a pretty large building.

The view of the area below was quite commanding. The site has shown evidence of continuous occupation since roughly 5000 BC.

I sat down on a large boulder at the very top, caught my breath, drank some water, looked around and rested a while before starting down the other side. Everyone else shot past me and down the other side quickly. I seemed to be the only one interested in savoring the experience. Granted, it was a very hot day. But I had on my Tilley hat (the kind the archaeologists use) and loads of sun screen plus cotton (not synthetic) clothing. So I was fine.

A relatively short walk down from the Palace, I came across a cistern. This was enclosed within the citadel walls. I went part of the way down the ancient steps into the cistern. It was very cool and pleasant down there, but I was also totally alone, so not too interested in disappearing and not being discovered until the next archaeological dig.

I came back up and headed for the North Gate. This was the back door to the citadel. It once had a double wooden door with a sliding bolt to lock it. Shortly before taking a path back around to the Lion Gate, I came across the remains of what looked like had been a pretty large, wealthy home called the House of the Columns. I also came across smaller artist workshops.

The next location on our journey was the small town of Epidavros. It was believed to have been the birthplace of Apollo’s son, Askepios, who was a healer. It became the most celebrated healing center in the classical world.

We visited its largely intact 14,000 seat theatre. The acoustics were amazing. A match stuck center stage could be clearly heard from any seat in the theatre. The construction of the theatre in limestone (instead of the more frequently used marble) was thought to mute the murmur of the crowd (low-frequency sound) while amplifying the high-frequency sounds onstage. It is still used for theatrical performance and occasional acoustic concerts.

Heading back towards Athens, we crossed the Corinthian Canal. It was quite narrow.

That night we had an optional dinner with loads of Greek food, Greek music and Greek dancing. Then we had a few hours of sleep before heading for our cruise ship at Lavion.

The ship was a small one by usual cruise standards – 800 passengers. Mark, Maureen, Chris and I all had our rooms in a line. We had each gotten a single outside cabin with a lovely, large window. Barbara and Roberta were in a shared room not too far from the rest of us. We could easily meet up before heading off somewhere.

We had the early seating for dinner that night at 6:30pm. We were seated together. After dinner, we decided to try the show, so we went to the early seating of that too. It was much better than I had anticipated and we all had a good time. Afterwards, I fell into bed and slept like a baby.

Next time – cruising to Istanbul & Ephesus and an earthquake

Tag: Expedition Unknown

Three Mystic Locations: Stonehenge, Glastonbury & Avebury

Agamemnon and Mycenae