Civil War – A Traveling Fool

In fall of 2017 I was invited out to Virginia to visit one of my cousins and his family. As part of my visit (since they know I love history) we visited the site of the American Civil War Battle of New River Bridge, the also nearby village of Newport, and took a drive to where the Civil War ended — Appomattox Courthouse.

Not far from where my cousin lives was the town of Radford, Virginia. Just outside of town, the Battle of New River Bridge was fought in May of 1864. Although called the New River, it is actually one of the oldest river systems in the world, coming in second to the Nile River in Egypt.

For strategic reasons, the Union decided it needed to burn the covered, wooden, railroad bridge spanning the New River. As the Federal troops approached, the outnumbered Confederates retreated across the river. An artillery battle took place for several hours while Union soldiers placed several rail cars containing hay inside of the covered bridge. During the artillery barrage, Captain Michael Egan of the 15^th West Virginia Infantry Regiment (which was on the side of the Union) swam out, climbed the piers of the bridge and set it on fire. Well over a hundred years later I photographed what was left.

Also near Blacksburg, was the village of Newport. They had a lovely covered road bridge, dating from 1916, as well as a very old, antebellum (pre-Civil War) church.

The tiny Virginia village of Appomattox Courthouse was the site of the Battle of Appomattox Courthouse and the surrender of Confederate General Robert E. Lee (Commander of the Army of Northern Virginia) to Union General Ulysses S. Grant (Commander of the Army of the Potomac).

The village started out in roughly 1819 as Clover Hill, named after its tavern. By 1845, it was determined that it would be the county seat for Appomattox County and so the Appomattox Courthouse building was constructed across the road from the Clover Hill Tavern. A jail was built behind the courthouse.

After abandoning Richmond, General Lee hoped to meet up with some of the other Confederate troops. By the time he reached Appomattox Courthouse, he encountered Union troops commanded by General Philip Sheridan instead and found himself involved in the Battle of Appomattox Courthouse.

As more Federal troops arrived, Lee found his troops seriously outnumbered and trapped with no avenue for escape or retreat, he realized he was going to have to surrender. Brigadier General Joshua Chamberlain of Maine collected the Confederate arms, but the troops were allowed to keep their horses and other possessions and go home.

We began our visit at the Old Appomattox Courthouse, which held some exhibits, and had an introductory message regarding what we would be seeing. Then we headed for the Clover Hill Tavern to listen to a reenactor talk about his experience in the battle and during the surrender. It was a really hot day and we we gathered on the front porch to catch whatever breeze there was. Back in the day, the tavern had also been a stagecoach inn.

After listening to the reenactor, we went on to explore the rest of the village. This included a few houses, a law office and a general store. The other major structure was the McLean House (and outbuildings), where the formal surrender took place.

Wilmer McLean was a wholesale grocer (who made his living during the war as a sugar broker for the Confederacy) who originally lived near Manassas, Virginia. One of the first battles of the war (the First Battle of Bull Run in 1861) took place on his farm. Afterwards, he moved to Appomattox Courthouse to escape the war only to receive a knock on his door in 1865 asking him if his home could be used for the surrender. He said afterwards that, “The war began in my front yard and ended in my front parlor.”

The McLean House had been restored back in the 1940s and furnished with as many original pieces as could be found. The parlor was recreated to appear as it did at the time of the surrender, based upon a painting. There were also a separate cookhouse and slave quarters.

I found the entire village to be fascinating to explore. There was nothing modern there. It was all historic. There was a definite feeling of “stepping back in time”. I had visited a fair amount of Virginia before — Yorktown, Jamestown, Williamsburg, Alexandria, Mount Vernon, Richmond, Monticello, and Fredericksburg — some with Colonial connections, some with American Revolution connections, some with American Civil War connections and some with links to all three eras. So much history in Virginia.

Next time – since I didn’t have the opportunity to travel in 2018, 2019 or 2020, I am beginning a series on memorable experiences while traveling. I do have a trip booked for later in 2021, so will have new adventures to report on afterwards.

In 1859, a raid was led by abolitionist John Brown on the arsenal at Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia. He had 21 men with him – 16 white, three free black, one freed slave, and one fugitive slave. They were armed with steel pikes. They were soon pinned down by locals and some of the militia and took refuge in the engine house. Lieutenant Colonel Robert E. Lee and Lieutenant J. E. B. Stuart led 86 soldiers to capture Brown’s raiders. Brown himself was hanged for treason. His goal had been to inspire a slave revolt.

Back in 1747, a fella named Robert Harper bought the rights to the ferry at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers from Peter Stephens, a squatter who was running the ferry on land actually owned by Lord Fairfax, a Scotsman. Harper then bought about 126 acres of land from Lord Fairfax, which included the land that became the town of Harper’s Ferry (originally called “Shenandoah Falls at Mister Harper’s Ferry”). Both Thomas Jefferson and George Washington visited the site at different times. When Washington arrived, he decided it would be a great place for a US armory and arsenal. Meriwether Lewis obtained the weapons and hardware for the Lewis & Clark Expedition from the armory.

When our tour group arrived, we found that Harper’s Ferry was still a very small town – only 286 people. The old part of town had been declared a National Historic Park and preserved as it would have been back in 1859. We left our tour coach at the visitor’s center and boarded a shuttle bus to take us down to the Lower Town. There we could wander around, in and out of buildings, until it was time to head back to the visitor’s center.

Some of the buildings I visited contained the A Place in Time Museum (the history of Harper’s Ferry), Frankel’s Clothing Store, the Provost Marshall Office, Stipes Boarding House, Arsenal Square (where the arsenal once stood), John Brown’s Fort (the engine house), the memorial on the original site of John’s Brown’s Fort (and where he was captured), the John Brown Museum, the museum to the 1862 Battle of Harper’s Ferry, the Confectionary, and the Civil War Museum. I had lunch at a café in the midst of all of these preserved buildings and museums.

Other than the café, restaurants, and the restrooms, it was like stepping back in time. Cars were not allowed (other than the shuttle bus), so it really seemed like we were back in 1859, except for the clothing and equipment of all of the tourists.

I got back to the visitor’s center a little early so I could browse in the gift shop. I found a large portrait photo of Abraham Lincoln and his son Tad, which now hangs on the wall of the bedroom I use as a library.

The bloodiest battle of the Civil War, the Battle of Gettysburg was fought from July 1^st to 3^rd in 1863 in and around the town of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. The casualties were estimated from 46,000 to 51,000 in total. Major General George Meade was commander of the Army of the Potomac (Union) while General Robert E. Lee commanded the Army of Northern Virginia (Confederates).

Other than memorials (and the growth of trees and shrubbery), the battlefield doesn’t look that much different than it did then. This makes it really easy to imagine the whole thing in your mind, especially while being described by an expert guide. Having the guide join you in your car and show you around is definitely worthwhile. That is what my brothers did when they took a day trip from DC. Our tour had one come aboard the tour coach.

We had about four hours at the battlefield, starting at the visitor’s center with a film, followed by the cyclorama and museum. After that, we were joined by our guide and toured the battlefield. We began at the statue of General Lee, which stands close to the starting point of Pickett’s Charge. This was a portion of the battle on the third day where about 12,500 Confederates marched across to what is known as the “high water mark” on Cemetery Ridge. The Confederates were pretty much mowed down, although there were a few who made it all the way to the Union line and hand-to-hand combat.

On our circuitous route to Cemetery Ridge (and the statue of General Meade), we stopped at several battle sites including Plum Run, the Peach Orchard, the Wheat Field, the Devil’s Den, and Little Round Top (which included a Union Reenactor). We got off of the tour coach and walked around at most of these locations.

The movie “Gettysburg” (based on the book The Killer Angels) used thousands of reenactors and filmed many of the battle scenes at Gettysburg on the actual battlefield. When I watched the movie, in addition to Pickett’s Charge, it was the 20^th Maine’s adventures on Little Round Top that made a big impression. Their attempt to defend their position on the second day of the battle culminated in a downhill bayonet charge led by their school teacher commander, Colonel Joshua Chamberlain (Jeff Daniels in the movie) when they ran out of ammunition. Standing on Little Round Top and looking down the slope makes their charge all the more impressive as it was fairly steep. If it had been me, I likely would have tripped, fallen, and become impaled on either my own or someone else’s bayonet.

The failed Pickett’s Charge is quite dramatic also. The movie footage was filmed in the actual location where it took place. Standing at either end (where it began or where it ended) it seems impossible that it would have been successful. In the book and movie, after the charge fails, Lee tells Pickett to “look to your division”. Pickett responds, “I have no division.”

The 1^st Minnesota was heavily involved in the Battle of Gettysburg as well. They have three monuments there as roughly 82% were killed, mainly on the second day at Plum Run.

That night we were staying in the Gettysburg Hotel, which dates from 1797. It is on the main square of the town, across the street from the David Willis House, where Lincoln stayed when he came to deliver the Gettysburg Address. The hotel was used as a hospital during the battle and is reputed to be haunted. I spent some time before dinner walking around in the neighborhood, which was very historic.

We had dinner at the Dobbin House Tavern, which dates to 1776 and was a hiding place for runaway slaves on the Underground Railroad. After a tasty dinner of flounder stuffed with crab meat, a baked potato, and a slice of cherry pie, we were given a short tour of the rooms where the runaways were hidden. The conditions were very cramped, but they would have had to have been in order not to be found.

Back at the hotel, I ended up sleeping with the lamp next to my bed on. I was pretty sure I wasn’t alone in the room.

Next time –Valley Forge, Philadelphia, and Baltimore.