I had thought that we would need to take our cases to the coach, and then to the train in Dijon, and then from the train in Paris onto the coach to the ship. Nope. I just needed to leave them, with their tags indicating that they were going to the new ship in Paris, plus the cabin number, outside of my cabin door by 7:00am. They were picked up and driven in a truck directly to the ship in Paris.
I just put what I would need for the day inside of my camera bag, which I wore across my body along with my travel purse. So, once we disembarked from the Poetry II in St Jean de Losne, we didn’t need to deal with our baggage at all. Our cases would be waiting for us when we arrived at the Tapestry II in Paris. Easy.
That morning at breakfast a family of swans stopped by to say “au revoir”. We thought that was friendly of them. I took a few photos.
There were a total of eleven of us going to Paris – six to hotels, and five of us to the other ship. The others were either flying out of Lyon or taking a train from there to someplace else.
Those of us going to Paris were driven to Beaune, one of the key wine centers of Burgundy. Since the Roman times, the region was known for producing some of the finest wines in France.
Our main reason for visiting Beaune was to see the Hospices de Beaune, which was a medieval hospital that had been in service from 1443 to 1971. It was originally founded by Duke Philip the Good’s chancellor, Nicholas Rolin, as a charitable hospital for the poor. They welcomed the elderly, disabled and sick people, orphans, women about to give birth, and the destitute.
Within the hospital’s courtyard, the buildings had very colorful, tiled roofs. The pattern had been created when the hospital had been founded and then kept up over the centuries. It was very intricate, mainly using red, green and black on a yellow background.
One of the hospital’s main sources of income was wine. They still own the vineyards and still produce wines that continue to provide for the maintenance of the hospital. While we were there, COVID-19 vaccinations were being given in an area of the building. I felt that was quite appropriate.
The original part of the building, which held the hall for the poor patients, including a chapel, was pretty much a large rectangular room. Beds lined both sides, with two patients to a bed. Tables and benches were in the middle of the room for meals. At the far end was the chapel, the ceiling of which was painted and had slender, painted beams.
Later on, another room was created for patients “with means”. It was smaller, but much more elegant (with paintings) and “cozy”. In this room, it was one patient to a bed with more voluminous bedcovers.
We also visited the kitchens and the pharmacy. In another area was a multi-panel painting considered to be a masterpiece – the ‘Polyptych of the Last Judgement’ (also known as the Beaune Altarpiece) by Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden.
After buying some earrings and a fridge magnet at the gift shop, I ventured out into the town. We had some free time before we left for Dijon. We could get some food for the train ride, peruse antiques shops, and (in my case at least) pick up a few things at a chocolatier.
Next time –the high speed train from Dijon to Paris
Swans coming to visitHaving said goodbyeHospices de BeauneThe poor wardAnother viewChapel ceilingChapelBack in the courtyardFor patients with meansAnother viewThe well and clock towerKitchenPharmacyBeaune AltarpieceThe town
Very few castles retain their original period throughout their lives. Most of the time, they evolve throughout the centuries as owners and tastes change. So a mostly intact 17th century chateau was something to look forward to seeing.
Chateau Cormatin had originally been built as a fortress in 1280. In 1606 a chateau was built on the original foundations, retaining the moat and the drawbridge.
By the time of the French Revolution, the Marquise was widowed, so she turned the Marquis’ Antechamber into a kitchen for her and her six children. Our local guide said that she was trying to show that she could be practical and frugal. Fortunately for her, she was also well loved by the people in the area. So she kept her head and her chateau.
The present day owners had been very fortunate to find that many of the rooms simply needed to be cleaned or to have some later paneling or dropped ceiling removed in order to reveal the original decoration.
So much of the time, over the centuries, a chateau has been redecorated so many times that someone trying to restore the place has quite a challenge regarding what was there originally and whether or not they want to ruin what was done later to try to go back to the original.
I had seen some partial 17th century decoration in castles and homes in Scotland before, but not too many other places. I was very excited to have the opportunity to see Chateau Cormatin.
Our choices for that morning included an excursion to a Chardonnay wine cellar or an excursion to Chateau Cormatin. I didn’t even need to think about it. I was going to Cormatin.
Bumping along on a winding road out in the countryside of Burgundy (Bourgogne) I was keeping my eyes moving as this was another area where I have some ancestors – roughly 33 Burgundians ranging from around 605 to 1306.
There were some ruins of a castle up on a hill coming into view when our local guide said that they were the remains of an early castle that had belonged to the Dukes of Burgundy in roughly the 11th to 13th centuries before their capitol was moved to Dijon. This was another “shoot quick or miss it” situation with my phone. My phone met the challenge. Good thing because I have not been able to find out anything more about that particular castle.
The next village was called Ozenay according to my phone, which sometimes shows the location of where I am taking a photo and sometimes doesn’t. The only info I could find on it was that it was in Burgundy. It was quaint and of the correct age for the time when my ancestors would have been in that area, so I have a photo included here. There was a 12th century castle in that village which is now used as a Bed & Breakfast.
Le Chapelle-sous-Brancion was another village with a castle. This one was the privately owned Chateau of the Nobles and dated to 1370 (after my people had left the area). I managed to get a good photo on the fly of it too.
We made a stop at the village of Chapaize to visit its church. This was an 11th century Romanesque church. Several of the houses in the village were stone with covered galleries. This was typical to the area and reminded me somewhat of the houses in Charleston, South Carolina with their galleries.
The church featured some steps on the outside leading up to the bell tower. I don’t recall ever seeing that before. I also felt that I wouldn’t want to be the one climbing those steps in the rain, snow, or cold.
Finally we arrived at Chateau Cormatin, which we entered through the main entrance in the center of the North Façade. We climbed the Grand Staircase to the Library which was one of a couple of 19th century rooms on that level of the north wing.
The Grand Staircase was the largest surviving example of a square staircase built around a central well. It had been built in 1623.
I shot a photo of the garden out of the window of one of the 19th century rooms before we headed back downstairs to see the magnificent 17th century rooms. The apartment of the Marquise was first. This consisted of an Antechamber, the formal Bedchamber, a Cabinet, a dressing/bathing room, and a small, private Chapel.
In her bedchamber were some candelabras that looked like arms coming out of the wall to hold a candle. I definitely got a kick out of those.
There were two rooms connecting the Marquise’s rooms to that of her husband. The first was a Hall of Mirrors, which was really a ‘room of marvels’ or a ‘cabinet of curiosities’. These kinds of rooms were very common in Europe in the early 17th century. They were designed to stimulate symbolic reflection using strange and exotic objects, stuffed animals, minerals, shells, bronzes, and anything else that would essentially show off the wealth and intellect of the owners.
Considered to be the most luxurious and best preserved early 17th century room in France, the Cabinet of the Marquis (also called the ‘Cabinet of Saint Cecilia’) was breathtaking. The only people who would see these rooms were the owners and their family and any very close friends or associates.
There were a few more rooms on the ground floor that were in varying stages of being restored. We had free time to explore and photograph these rooms and go out and explore the gardens before we needed to head back to the tour coach to rejoin the ship in its new location.
On my way up the drive to the gates, I met the owner riding down the drive on his bicycle. We greeted each other, and then I gestured towards the chateau and said, “Absolument magnifique.” He smiled with pleasure and thanked me. That really pleased me to have been able to tell him what I thought with what little command of French I still have. He spent a lot of time and money on making that place so amazing. It had become one of my favorites of any castle I have ever seen anywhere.
We had a free afternoon on the ship as we immediately set sail for St Jean de Losne once everyone was back on board. After lunch, I finished up with my packing as we would be disembarking the following morning. We also had a tasting of regional cheeses, breads, and mustards, along with wines of course.
Next time – Beaune and its medieval hospital for the poor (as well as some amazing chocolate)
We had docked in Lyon during the night. When we awoke, we found ourselves not only in the third largest city in France (after Paris and Marseilles) but docked on the Saône instead of the Rhône. Lyon straddles both rivers.
Founded as the Roman city of Lugdunum on Fourviére Hill in 43 BC, Lyon became the capital of the Gauls. The Archbishop of Lyon is still referred to as the “Primat des Gaules”. Interestingly, Lyon was not under French control until the 14th century.
The silk trade was one of the main drivers of the city’s development during the Renaissance. During that time the system of secret passages known as traboules were created in the part of the city now known as Vieux Lyon. These came in handy during World War II. Klaus Barbie, the Nazi “Butcher of Lyon” had his headquarters at the Hotel Terminus. The French Resistance was very strong in Lyon and used the traboules as a means of escaping the Gestapo raids.
During the morning while the bicycle race was taking place and the streets of Lyon were mainly closed to any other vehicles, I got the tags for my cases and packed everything that I wouldn’t need until we got to Paris. I also wandered around the top deck and took some photos of the city from up there. Back in my cabin, I got some nice photos of swans, boats, kayaks, and even the tail end of a group of cyclists who shot by on the other side of the Saône.
We had a grilled lunch up on the open top deck of the ship with steak, salmon or burgers as our choices. Several sides were also served. A couple flavors of ice cream were provided for dessert.
Our tour of Lyon began as a coach tour. The part where we first departed from the tour coach, took place at the same place as the city began — Fourviére Hill. We went by the Roman remains of the Theatre of Fourviére and the Odeon of Lyon on the side of the hill (photo included) and parked up on the top of the hill.
There was quite a view of the city from up there (photo included) plus a truly gorgeous basilica. Occupying the site of the Roman forum of Trajan at the top of Fourviére Hill, the basilica was actually quite new, having been built between 1872 and 1896. Next door was a lovely bell tower and Shrine of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. It had a golden statue of Mary at the top.
We were given some free time to visit the basilica before we needed to return to the tour coach. But first I needed to visit a smaller facility near the wall overlooking the city.
When I entered the little building, I discovered a turnstile to get in and a machine attached to the wall from which a ticket needed to be purchased. Although I could get by with what I remembered from high school French fairly often (like when making purchases at the market at Tournon), there were plenty of times when I was completely lost. I looked at the machine and realized that I understood enough French to purchase the ticket. Whew!
Most ticket-operated turnstiles I had encountered before were the type where you slid a ticket into a slot and the turnstile let you through. Instead, this one read the code on the ticket when you placed the ticket against a little screen. Fortunately I figured that out too and found myself headed down the stairs to the rest rooms.
In France, sometimes rest rooms are separated between “Hommes” and “Dames” and sometimes it is everyone together. These were separated and very clean. Perhaps not everyone wanted to spend 0.70€ and waited until they could find one for free. I was the only person down there.
My time inside the basilica was limited to just a few quick photos instead of being able to tour the entire building. But my half hour had dwindled to fifteen minutes, so I did what I could after taking several photos outside. It was a beautiful building.
After driving around the modern parts of the city and some of the 18th and 19th century parts, we stopped just outside of the old Renaissance portion of the city known as Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon). There we got off of the tour coach again and took a walking tour. All of the streets were narrow and cobbled, so were pedestrian only. Our local guide led us through a couple of the traboules into the courtyards from which the buildings could be entered. The courtyards were quite lovely and definitely a “back in time” experience.
Vieux Lyon is the largest, intact, Renaissance neighborhood in Europe and is a protected district. It has three distinct sections:
The Saint Jean Quarter, which is the oldest, dating to the Middle Ages. It was mainly a center of religious and political power.
The Saint Paul Quarter, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. This section was dominated by Italian bankers and merchants and contained several mansions.
The Saint Georges Quarter also dated mostly from the Middle Ages. The silk weavers moved in during the 16th century. The traboules were built here.
Traboules were created as a means to pass through buildings and their courtyards, connecting streets directly with one another. At the time, there weren’t a lot of streets that ran parallel between the hill and the Saône. So these passages (which were closed off by doors) were quicker routes to get where one needed to go. But you had to know they were there.
Even now, with only a handful of traboules open to the public, the majority are still secret passages. The first one we entered had a long, dark, narrow corridor with heavy wooden doors at each end. The second one had a shorter, wider passage with the doors open on each end. This one had some elegant shops in the courtyard. It also had a famous tower called the Tour Rose (Pink Tower).
In that same courtyard was an old, wooden door with loads of nails that was labeled “Institut des Sciences Clavologiques”. It means “Institute of Nail Sciences” and is a joke. There is a private society that meets there and nobody knows what they do. I am certain it has something to do with drinking.
Next time – Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and Chateau Cromatin
When we awoke in the morning, we found ourselves docked at Tournon-sur-Rhône, a lovely old town in the Rhône-Alps region of France.
One of the town’s main claims to fame has always been its wines. They have been popular since the days of Charlemagne (he was a fan). The hills above the town were full of terraced vineyards.
We were docked near a small square with a statue of Marc Seguin. He was the engineer and inventor who developed the first suspension bridge in Europe. Completed in 1825, it just happened to be in Tournon-sur- Rhône, connecting it to its sister town (and main rival), Tain l’Hermitage, just across the Rhône.
Entering the town from the quay, we only had a short walk before we found ourselves in front of the 14th century Church of Saint Julien. It had its original heavy, wooden door. Oddly enough some old houses had been built right into the walls of the church.
The nearby castle was begun in the 10th century (the oldest part including the round tower) and was expanded in both the 14th and 16th centuries. It now contained a museum of the history of the town, including several rooms of period furniture.
From the castle, we walked down to Monsieur Seguin’s suspension bridge. It was now for pedestrians and bicycles. No motor vehicles. There was a good view of the castle, that particular end of town (the tower up the hill in the photo shows where the town originally ended), and some of the terraced vineyards.
Tournon also has the oldest high school in France, the Lycee Gabriel Faure, founded in 1536. Here is what I found on the Internet:
“Anciennement nommé Collège de Tournon, il fut fondé en 1536 par le cardinal François II de Tournon. En 1548, le Collège de Tournon devient une université de Philosophie et des sept Arts Libéraux.”
The Translation:
“Formerly named Collège de Tournon, it was founded in 1536 by Cardinal François II de Tournon. In 1548, the Collège de Tournon became a University of Philosophy and the Seven Liberal Arts.”
In 1562, the cardinal introduced free education at the college and bequeathed his personal library to the establishment. By 1604, both Hebrew and Chaldean were taught. In 1776, the college began teaching history, geography and the Sciences. By 1820, the college passed under secular administration, becoming a high school in 1848. Its current name was acquired after 1870.
After we went by the high school, we continued on to a market. It was Saturday and market day in Tournon. We had some free time to inspect and perhaps buy. I bought deux pain au chocolates, quelques framboises, et une bouteille de jus de poire (two chocolate croissants, some raspberries, and a bottle of pear juice). At the end of the market where we were to meet up, there were some live turkeys, chickens, and ducks for sale.
After the market, we headed back to the ship to set sail for Vienne. We weren’t going to arrive in Vienne until about 5pm. Since the pain in my back had been fluctuating, instead of settling in to stay while at Tournon, I felt optimistic that it might be improving a little. Perhaps it was getting somewhat used to all that walking and standing. But I still chose to forego the walking tour of Vienne and give it a rest – just not push it.
After lunch, I hung out with Roberta & Jeff and Chris & Andy. We watched the world go by as we sailed up the Rhone. We managed to get photos of another castle as we went by. This one was showing up correctly on my phone as Ampuis.
Chateau d’Ampuis originated in the 12th century as a fortress and was later turned into a Renaissance Chateau. Surrounded by vineyards, the chateau is now the headquarters of the winery Maison Guigal.
At 4:00pm we had a tasting of local specialties, which included cheeses, wines, breads, and jams. One of the reasons why I wasn’t drinking wine with our lunches was that it tends to make me sleepy. Good thing that I had already decided not to go on the walking tour of Vienne. I ended up taking a nap while the others were gone. But I was up in time for Happy Hour and Dinner.
On the way back down from the Viviers Cathdral, we picked up the local guide for the “Black Diamond” Truffle Experience (Jane) and another person from our group who had apparently done enough walking for the day. It was also raining. Cobblestones can be quite treacherous in the rain.
Since I was the only person who had signed up for the “Black Diamond” Truffle Experience, I was given enough time to take a short break before we headed out. It was just me, Jean Loup, Jane, and the driver.
We had quite a drive around in the countryside of Grignan before reaching the truffle farm. At one point we went by a castle. Jane said that she usually stops at the castle but, as it was raining, we would not be doing so. She had no clue as to how much that hurt my heart as a castle lover. Since it was raining and we were too close to the castle, it wasn’t practical for me to even get a photo of it at that point.
At the truffle farm, the house was large and made of stone (small pieces rather than large blocks). The owner (Gilles) was tall, slender, with unruly, longish, grey hair and the beginnings of a scraggly beard. He was dressed in pink shorts, pink slip-on shoes, and a blue shirt. He also had a fairly thick French accent and was concerned about his command of the English language, but I assured him that I could understand him just fine. He was rather quiet and unassuming. Essentially he was just exactly what I would have pictured.
His great grandfather had begun the truffle business (Aymes Truffe) back in 1850 when a large part of the vineyard was destroyed by an invasion of insects. Gilles explained all about truffles. They are essentially a type of mushroom. They need three conditions in order to develop: 1) a special tree that serves as a host; 2) a particular kind of soil; 3) and a special climate. At his farm, they were constantly planting new trees. The main varieties were oaks and hazelnuts.
Two female yellow labs came out with Gilles’ wife to demonstrate how they find the truffles. Back in the day, pigs were used to find truffles. The problem was that the pigs also loved to eat the truffles. So they had to have the truffles wrestled away from them.
Dogs can be trained to sniff out the truffles without having to fight them for them. These dogs sniffed around and then pawed at the ground when they found something. Giles then dug up what they found and the dogs were rewarded with their favorite treats. The first photo included here shows a couple of truffles fresh out of the ground.
The dogs didn’t pay much attention to the visitors until they were done with the job they were supposed to do. Once they were rewarded and released, they came up to us, wagging their tails and looking for some petting.
Back at the house, Gilles brought out some truffles that had previously been cleaned and were ready to be eaten. He used a mandolin slicer to shave them down to thin slivers which he piled onto baguette slices and topped with olive oil and sea salt. He prepared a whole plate full and offered red, white or rose wine.
The only truffles I had ever had were tiny slivers inside pate and other things. I had never actually tasted any truffles of a decent size. What if I didn’t like them? Either way I really enjoyed the tour. But I didn’t want to be making a face or trying to choke down a mouthful of something that tasted horrible. No problem. They were delicious. Good thing since we had a whole plateful for just me, Jean Loup and Jane to share. I had a rose wine with mine.
I never thought I would ever be able to say that I was full of truffles. But I was full of truffles by the time we left. Gilles had some for sale that were packed in a jar. He also had some truffle oil for sale. I bought some of each. They had a website from which I can order more.
We took a shorter route back to the ship, but stopped briefly so I could take a photo of the castle we had passed earlier from a distance. The ship was supposed to have set sail at 6:00pm, but we didn’t arrive until 6:10pm. Fortunately I was with Jean Loup. They wouldn’t leave without him. They did have to put the gangway back in place so we could get onboard.
At dinner that night, I met the other couple that would be on the entire trip with me in addition to Roberta & Jeff. This new couple was Vicki & Tony.
That night, we had escargot as appetizers. I love escargot and order it whenever possible and feasible. So I know how to handle it – normally. For some reason these snails had burrowed themselves as far into their shells as possible. In order to get them out, it was necessary to wrestle with them. There were a couple people at our table who shot one of theirs across the room, shell and all. I managed to eat five of my six. That last one just wasn’t coming out for anything.
We had sailed from Avignon at 4:45am and arrived at a lock at Bollene at 9:45am. It was a deep one. Judging by the entries I saw on the Internet when I “googled” it, it is also considered to be quite a tourist site on its own. We gathered on the top deck at the bow to watch, photograph and video what was happening.
At seven stories tall, it is by far the deepest lock on the Rhone. Built in 1952 as part of the Donzère-Mondragon Dam, the lock also produces renewable hydroelectric power. In fact, together with the nearby nuclear power station and adjacent wind farms, this region produces one-third of France’s electrical power.
The captain used a small control panel, located at the starboard side of the ship to navigate his way through without scraping the sides of the ship against the wall of this very long and narrow lock. This was because he was eyeballing it –judging exactly how much room he had.
Once inside, the guillotine gate at the stern closed and the lock began to fill with water. As the ship rose, we found ourselves elevating from the dark, dank depths of the lock towards the sunlight. The first photo I have included with this post was taken from inside the lock. The second is from when we reached the top and were officially on the Canal de Donzere Mondragon.
Later in the morning, we had a cruise briefing on the plans for the day plus some changes that were coming up during the rest of the southern portion of the cruise. The biggest change was in Lyon. We had planned to tour the city in the morning and then have some optional tours in the afternoon. Instead, there would be a bicycle race in the morning, closing down the entire city (it would be a Sunday). So no city tour until the afternoon. Two of the optionals — “Delights of Beaujolais with Wine Discovery” and “Lyon Culinary Journey: Les Halles de Paul Bocuse” (an indoor food market) – were moved to the morning. But the one for which I had signed up – “Medieval Perouges” (a walled medieval town high on a hill) – was canceled. That meant that I would have another morning off on that day.
Our Cruise Director, Jean Loup, also announced that he had arranged for a mini-van that could carry six passengers up to the top of Viviers to the Cathedral. It was a very steep, cobble-stoned hike up from the river. Dennis and one of the Danish couples (we had two couples from Denmark in the midst of 17 Americans) and I rode up with Jean Loup and the driver.
At a couple points on the way up the narrow roads in Viviers, it seemed we were going pretty much straight up vertically. It made me very glad that I had chosen to ride in the mini-van. We left the ship an hour after the main group and beat them to the cathedral. We pulled into a parking area next to the building and had time to explore before the others arrived.
An operatic lyric soprano with a gorgeous voice sang for us. The acoustics were amazing. The tower was built in the 11th century with the rest of the Cathedral of St Vincent following in the 12th century. The village itself dates back to the 5th century although most of the current buildings date from between the 11th century to the 18th century. The population at its height was about 30,000. Currently it is below 4,000.
The photos of the village give an idea of how narrow the streets were as well as how steep some were. I thought it was a cool village that still had so much of its authentic medieval atmosphere.
Next – Grignan & Truffles (not the chocolate kind)
After lunch on the same day as Pont du Gard, we visited Avignon (those of us who hadn’t visited in the morning). The group was getting larger. This time there were five. Chris and Andy, who had been with me in Arles, and Pat and Fred, whose cabin was directly across the corridor from mine. Most of the rest of the group was on the optional tour to Chateauneuf-du-pape, which is a truly delicious collection of wines created not far from Avignon.
One of Avignon’s main claims to fame is that it, not Rome, was the seat of the Papacy from 1309 to 1377. The city walls and the Palace of the Popes were created during this time.
Another one of Avignon’s famous sites is the Pont d’Avignon – actually the Pont Saint-Bénézet. This is the bridge in the song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon”, the chorus of which goes: “Sur le Pont d’Avignon; L’on y danse, l’on y danse; Sur le Pont d’Avignon; L’on y danse tous en rond.” I had barely managed to get a quick pic of what was left of this bridge as we returned from Pont du Gard in the morning and rounded a bend in the road. It helped that I was in the front seat right behind the driver.
A stone bridge replaced the original wooden bridge in 1234. It once had 22 arches and spanned the entire river across the island in the middle. Since the bridge tended to collapse each time the Rhone experienced a serious flood, it was abandoned in the mid-17th century. Four arches and the gatehouse at the Avignon end remain. There is also a 12th century chapel on the second pier, dedicated to Saint Nicholas.
I snapped another ‘hurried while passing’ shot of the city walls as we returned to the ship. After lunch, to get from where the ship was docked into the walled city of Avignon, we crossed a road next to the quay, and then walked to a pedestrian tunnel to go under the main road around the walls. When we reached the walls, we headed for the gate to one of the main streets.
Avignon had a lot more people in it than in Arles. The sidewalks were narrow, so it was necessary to step out into the street from time to time and hopefully not get clobbered by a motor vehicle. The streets weren’t all that wide either. Fortunately the motor traffic was not terribly heavy, especially when we got into some of the side streets.
The 14th century Church of Saint Agricol was one of the first sights we came to after a walk around some of the streets and squares. It was the second oldest church in Avignon after the cathedral. Directly across the street from the Palais des Papes was the Hôtel des Monnaies. Built in 1610, this was the papal mint and eventually became a music school.
Next door to the Palais des Papes was the cathedral Notre Dame des Doms. It predates the Palais by two centuries, having been built in the 12th century. It is also pretty much dwarfed by the palace.
Once we got into the palace, I was mighty glad that we had a local guide. Even with a diagram of the place, I think I would have gotten lost. It was massive. I remember there were audience rooms and private chambers and chapels, but I can’t tell which is what from trying to compare the photos to the floor plan. I know that we entered through the new palace, crossed a courtyard and then entered the old palace. At some point we moved from the old palace to the new and came back out at the new palace. This was after climbing loads of stairs up and down and tromping through mammoth spaces.
My back had bothered me in Arles and earlier in the day at Pont du Gard. But it was absolutely killing me in Avignon. The short version of the story is: 1) cancer; 2) surgery; 3) cancer gone; 4) pain not quite yet. It had been just three months since the surgery, so fortunately I had a collapsible cane with me. But I needed to sit down a lot. On top of that, it was very hot and we needed to wear masks both inside and out. I have to say, bless Chris, Andy, Pat and Fred as all four of them kept looking out for me and made sure I wasn’t falling behind.
After we left the Palais des Papes, we headed for the lovely, much, much smaller, Church of Saint-Pierre with its beautifully carved doors. Like Saint Agricol and the Palais, it was 14th century. Not far from there was the Synagogue.
We headed back to the main market square and returned to the ship the way we came. Once I refreshed and cooled down, I headed for Happy Hour to join Roberta and Jeff for a cooling drink (a margarita on the rocks) and to hear how their day went. After the Port Talk (when we got the rundown of the schedule for the next day) we joined the rest of our group for dinner.
Here and there along the river we would pass a castle. Makes sense to me. If I had the kind of money to build a castle, I would likely want to put it overlooking a river. We saw several castles along the Rhone (and the Saone and the Seine) on the full cruise. Sometimes I had my camera or phone at the ready and sometimes not.
A while after setting sail from Arles for Avignon, we spotted a castle on the port side of the ship. I managed to get a decent photo which I have included here. My phone said it was Beaucaire. But when I looked it up, the photos of the castle on the internet didn’t look like my photo. Then, I found there was another castle across the Rhone from Beaucaire called Tarascon. I looked it up. It matched.
The town of Tarascon has the tradition that Martha of Bethany (sister of Lazarus and Mary) arrived in Tarascon in 49 AD. Apparently there was a problem with a Tarasque (which is a mythological hybrid of a dragon in Provence). Martha tamed the beast. After her death, a church was built in her honor on the site of the house in which she had lived (near both the river and the castle). Her relics are contained there in the 3rd century crypt.
The castle was built in 1400 and is still in pretty good shape. Although the bridges of the town were destroyed during World War II, the castle wasn’t. Beaucaire across the river was destroyed during the Revolution. It had been a royal castle. Tarascon had been owned by the rulers of Anjou and belonged to the town by the time of the Revolution, so it was spared.
We docked at Avignon during the night. The morning excursion that I had booked was a visit to the Pont du Gard. The highest and one of the best preserved aqueducts built by the Romans, it was built during the 1st century AD in order to provide water to the town of Nimes.
Maintenance of the aqueduct was being neglected by the 4th century. But the Pont du Gard survived because it was also being used as a toll bridge. By the 17th century, the entire structure was having issues. So, in the early 18th century, it was renovated and reinforced. A bridge was built to the side of the structure, to keep the main aqueduct safe from the wear and tear of the toll bridge.
The Pont du Gard has been a tourist destination for several centuries. That too was having its toll on the structure. In 1985 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Once again, there were just three of us on this excursion. This time my companions were another couple, Dennis & “D”. Dennis was recovering from an ankle replacement back in April. He did fine on the way to the museum, in the museum, and when we went out to the Pont du Gard and onto the bridge. It was when we went to the other side of the structure that he decided to just wait until we came back. The ground was much more uneven on that side. I hung in there until we came to some steep stairs down to a beach. Then I waited at the top of the stairs (sitting on a low wall) for our guide, Aurie, and D to return. It was great to just sit and soak in the scenery.
In the museum, a display was included regarding how the arches were built using wooden scaffolding. There were some examples of tools that were used and how the stone was quarried.
When we were on the bridge, we could see the narrow gap between the bridge and the aqueduct. We could also clearly see the graffiti from many centuries of stone masons and tourists carved into the original walls. The holes where the wooden scaffolding had been inserted and the protruding stone that supported the scaffolding were still there too. I have seen other Roman aqueducts before, but this one was by far the most beautiful and impressive.
France’s COVID protocol included proof of vaccination for pretty much anything. Entrance to attractions or shops or restaurants all required a special card if a French resident or showing the actual vaccination card if from outside of France. It was also necessary to wear masks both inside and outside. You could get away with lowering or removing the mask outside if there weren’t other people nearby (as in people outside of your group).
At Pont du Gard, we were able to remove our masks while doing most of our outdoor walking (when not in the museum). But had to put them back on when we were on the bridge as there were more people there.
Since everyone on the ship was vaccinated (all passengers, crew and staff) we didn’t need masks other than for when we visited the breakfast or lunch buffets. We had our temperatures taken each morning as we arrived for breakfast. There were hand sanitizer stations several places onboard.
Avalon was also going much more green. So we were given glass water bottles in our cabins which were refilled each day with fresh water. The daily activities and schedule, plus menus for all meals were on an app we could download to our phones. I liked that a lot, especially since the entire trip is still on my phone so I can look back at what we did and ate while writing up these posts. Such as, that night, I had a chicken liver pate, French leek and potato soup, grilled vegetables, and a chocolate parfait, washed down with a Chartron et Trebuchet wine. For lunch I had some mussels and Ratatouille with an éclair for dessert.
Originally I had booked a trip before the Pandemic to take place in December of 2020. By September 2020, the reason for my going (a play) was canceled. At that point I received an email from Avalon Waterways saying that they were offering a free upgrade to the Panorama Suite (the one with an entire wall of floor-to-ceiling windows that could be opened – essentially making the entire cabin a balcony). Since I had a couple of their river cruises on my list of trips that I would like to take, I booked the Grand France Northbound for April 2021.
For the next several months, it needed to be moved a few more times. But eventually we settled on the end of August/early September 2021. In the meantime, the single supplement was waved and I ended up with a couple more discounts.
France would let me in as long as I could prove that I had been vaccinated. Avalon sent me a form to fill out that basically said that I hadn’t been exposed to anyone with COVID within 14 days of my flight. At Delta’s International flights desk, they were interested in my passport and vaccination card, but not the form.
On the plane to Amsterdam, I was given another form that they said needed to be filled out before we landed in Amsterdam. It said the same thing as the form I had received from Avalon. Nobody in Amsterdam was interested in that form either.
On the plane from Amsterdam to Marseilles, we were handed yet another form asking the same questions as the first two. We were told that we needed to hand the form in as we left the plane. This time they actually collected the forms.
In order to reach the Marseilles airport, it seemed that we needed to fly over pretty much all of Marseilles. I had the window seat and could see the city very well. Good thing. Once we landed, I didn’t get to see that much of Marseilles at all.
After getting my checked case (which I was very relieved to see since we had ended up with a very short time between flights in Amsterdam) and heading out into the terminal, I saw my Avalon representative. She escorted me to my driver and then I went on an hour-long ride to Port Saint Louis to board the ship.
This ship was much nicer than the one for the previous river cruise I had taken on the Nile. They also had a buffet lunch set up, which was a relief as there wasn’t really anything in the vicinity. We ended up with 21 passengers on board a ship that could hold about 128. It was the first cruise of the year for the Poetry II. At 5:00pm the ship set sail for our first stop – Arles.
Arles is just north of a natural wetlands area called the Camargue. This is a mostly wild area where flamingos, wild horses (thought to have existed for thousands of years), and wild cattle roam. Located in Provence, Arles was an important town during Roman occupation from about 123 BC to roughly the 5th century AD. Prior to that, it had been a Phoenician port.
During the French Impressionist period, both Vincent Van Gogh and Paul Gauguin lived and painted in Arles for a while. Van Gogh produced somewhere around 300 paintings while in the area. Arles was also where he cut off his ear and was hospitalized before moving to a nearby asylum.
I found five ancestors born in Arles between 818 and 986 during ancestral research. This plus the ties to Van Gogh helped to make Arles a destination to which I was really looking forward. There were still lots of Roman vestiges, plus quite a bit of medieval architecture.
When we left the ship and climbed the steps to the street level, we immediately saw a poster of Van Gogh’s “Starry Night over the Rhone”. It had apparently been painted right there. In the photo, you can see our ship on just the other side of the wall from the poster. I found that to be exciting. Our ship was docked right next to where Van Gogh had painted one of his famous Starry Night paintings.
Due to Arles’ age and the narrowness of its streets (except for the areas that were bombed during World War II – mainly near the port) cars aren’t allowed other than for residents. So, as soon as we crossed the road, we found several parking lots.
At the edge of one of these parking lots was another poster showing the location of where Van Gogh painted “Yellow House”. The house was no longer there. But the building behind it was. This had been a house that Vincent rented and where Gauguin stayed with him briefly.
I had signed up for a painting workshop where we would learn Van Gogh’s techniques and then paint part of one of his paintings. There were only three of us that had signed up. The building the class was in was a post war building just the other side of the parking lots. There were two instructors as well as our local guide.
We were taught how Van Gogh mixed his paints. He had blue, red, yellow and white. All other colors came from those four. They also talked about mixing on the canvas, layering, the thickness of brush strokes, etc. I picked out “The Starry Night” (painted while Vincent was in the asylum) and ended up painting the far left section with the tree and some of the stars. I have included a photo of it here.
After the workshop, we went off to explore the rest of the town. Our local guide was from a family who has spent several generations in Arles. The women there tend to dress in heritage clothing for special occasions. The styles date from the mid-eighteenth century. I have included a photo I took of a shop window where such clothing was sold. The photo is a little fuzzy, but it gives an idea. I especially liked the hat on the mannequin on the far right.
The actual café that Van Gogh painted in “Café Terrace at Night” still stands and, along with the two Starry Nights, is one of my favorites of his paintings. I took several photos, but included just two here. My mom used to love Van Gogh too. We had visited Auvers-sur-Oise (where he died and is buried) together and spent a lot of time in the Musee d’Orsay looking at his paintings. I thought of her while I was standing there at another place that he had painted. The café is now called Café Van Gogh.
After walking through another part of the town, we arrived at the hospital where Vincent stayed after cutting off his ear. There too was a poster of the painting he did of the garden of the hospital. He had been living in the yellow house when the incident took place (after an argument with Gauguin) and he returned to the yellow house for a time after he was released from the hospital and before he went to the asylum.
In the center of the Place de la Republique (town square) stood a 4th century Roman obelisk. Also in the square, the Church of Saint Trophine’s origins date back to the 12th century. It was built upon the site of a 5th century church and is considered to have some of the finest Romanesque sculpture in existence on the west portal.
Our final stop before heading back to the ship was the Roman amphitheater. Built in 90 AD, it could hold about 20,000 spectators. It is still used for concerts, plays, and the occasional bull fight. After the fall of Rome in the 5th century, the arena ended up being equipped with four medieval towers and a large share of the town (200 houses plus a town square and two chapels) built inside of it. It wasn’t until the late 18th century and early 19th that the buildings were cleared out of the center and it went back to being an amphitheater. Three of the four medieval towers still exist.
I really enjoyed the couple with whom I had taken the Van Gogh workshop. We later exchanged contact info and plan to stay in touch. We also hung out together several times during the southern portion of the river cruise (which was the only part they were doing).
At lunch, I met another couple with whom I ended up sitting during Happy Hour and dinner that night. We ended up continuing to have dinner together with two other couples most nights. This particular couple was participating in the entire cruise. They sort of adopted me immediately as part of their circle.
After dinner, for entertainment, we had the Gipsy Kings, who were from Arles. I had seen then on TV several years ago.
Since the Van Gogh workshop, I have felt a little emboldened to try an entire Van Gogh. I am currently working on “Starry Night over the Rhone”, since I feel a special connection to it.
There a numerous ways to go traveling. For me, it depends upon where I am going and what I want to do while there.
I can book everything myself and be completely on my own (or with a travel companion) while there. Or do a combo where I book everything and mostly wander around on my own, but then take some day trips or short two-to-four-day trips out of wherever I am based. Or I can do a hybrid trip through Monograms (which is a branch of Globus Tours), where they take care of booking the air, airport transfers, hotel, plus give you some day trip options, but you make all the decisions about what you want to see and do.
Tours include land touring (large group, small group, or private) or cruises (large ship, smaller island hopping ships, or river cruising).
Entirely On My Own
If I am really familiar with a place and/or plan to basically stay in the one place the entire time and/or it is a short trip, I might opt for being entirely on my own. An example here would be the Black Hills of South Dakota. My mom grew up there. So booking the air, hotel and car rental was no big deal. We knew exactly what we were doing and had the itinerary planned in advance. We also did this several times in Los Angeles where we have family.
I do recommend doing research and planning what you want to do before you get there, so you know how much time you need. What are the attractions and activities in the area? When are they open? How far away are they from where you are staying? Is a rental car the best option, or would you be better off on mass transit?
As far as booking is concerned, sometimes I will use a site like Kayak and sometimes I will book directly with the hotel or airline or car rental company. Again, it depends upon where I am going and how familiar I am with that location.
Combo On My Own with Day Trips and/or Short Trips
I have done this one a lot, in several places in the US (such as Los Angles, San Francisco, Boston and New York City) as well as in London, Edinburgh and Paris. I usually use Viator, which consolidates day trips, short trips and longer trips out of most relatively large cities. So, say you want to visit Oxford or Bath while in London. They will show a variety of trips offered by several different vendors from which to choose.
The trips are offered on specific days of the week and times of the year too. I sometimes will end up with trips with several different vendors, depending upon when they are going, price, and possibly a large group on a big coach versus a small group of about sixteen max in a smaller van.
I also will pick a vendor with whom I have had a great experience in the past — such as Rabbie’s — a Scottish company that does day trips, short tours and longer tours on a small group basis, out of Edinburgh, Glasgow, London, and Dublin. I have always had a great experience with them. These days, if I want to do something out of Edinburgh or London, I look at Rabbie’s website first to see what they have before checking Viator.
Monograms — a Hybrid
As I mentioned above, Monograms is a division of Globus Tours, which is the main tour company I have used since 1984. Monograms takes care of booking the air, hotel, and airport/hotel transfers for you. There is a person at the hotel who can help you out with where things are and how to get there. They also take you on a orientation tour of the city the morning of the next day after you arrive and can set you up on any day trips they have on their daily list. For a multi-city trip, they will also arrange for you to get from city to city.
For instance, I am looking at a future Four Night Paris & Four Night London trip through Monograms. I would start in Paris, then they would put me on the Chunnel Train to London to get me there. I would be met in London and taken to the hotel, where I would have a Monograms person to help me out when in London. I am contemplating one possible day trip in each of those cities, but doing my own thing the rest of the time. I can decide in advance which days I want to do the day trips and have them booked ahead of time so the Monograms person would only be watching for me to get on the right tour bus at the right time.
Land Tours
So far, all of my large group land tours have been through Globus or their budget arm, Cosmos. I have looked at some other groups and have some trips in mind through other companies, but so far have only done Globus and Cosmos. They seem to go where I want to go, have decent prices, allow a good amount of free time at most locations, and they have always had wonderful tour directors who have taken great care of the entire group. They have also been very helpful in the few times that my mom or I have needed something.
For small group tours, I have already mentioned Rabbie’s. I tried them and several other companies out with some day trips first and then decided Rabbies’s was the best by far and went for a couple of longer trips with them. For accommodation, Rabbie’s offers, hostels, B&Bs and hotels as choices with price ranges for each. Booking them is done by Rabbie’s, but paying for them is your responsibility. For one of the tours I did with them (in England and Wales), I chose mid-price B&Bs. When checking out of each B&B, it was necessary to have the right amount of money in cash (British pounds). The other tour was a Scottish castle tour involving country house hotel accommodation. So that was covered in the price of the tour and paid by credit card when the tour was booked.
I haven’t done any private tours as they have been much more expensive than what I care to spend, so I won’t go into them here. Viator always has some listed however.
Usually with land tours, the hotels, all land transportation, and several meals (often all breakfasts and some dinners) are included. Sightseeing is also included with some optional extras that can be purchased separately after the tour begins. With Rabbie’s, some sightseeing is included and some isn’t. They do tell you in advance so you are prepared.
Cruises
The two to three thousand passenger ocean-going cruises in places like the Caribbean or Mediterranean are not something I have done as of yet. I have so far stayed with smaller cruises.
The biggest ship I have been on for a multi-day cruise was a french ship carrying roughly 600 passengers around the Aegean to the Greek Islands with two stops in Turkey. It seemed to be just big enough without being too big. The cruise was part of a 16-day tour of Greece & the Greek Islands through Globus. We had eight days on land in Greece and then eight days on the cruise.
All meals were included on the cruise. A drinks ticket could be purchased in addition for either non-alcoholic drinks (which included things like milkshakes and non-alcoholic cocktails) or, for a good deal more money, a drinks ticket including beer, wine and cocktails could be purchased. I did the math and realized that I would pretty much have to be sloshed all day each day to make the price of the drinks ticket with alcohol worthwhile, so I went with the the non-alcoholic drinks. Pretty tasty stuff and I didn’t feel the least bit deprived. All shore excursions were extra and were purchased the first day on the cruise (and paid for by credit card).
River cruises are the best in my opinion. I have booked two of those so far. One was in Egypt on the Nile and the other in France. The one on the Nile was part of a Cosmos tour of Egypt (a week on land plus a week on an Egyptian ship from Aswan to Luxor). Our group stayed together for all included excursions and meals. There were no extra expenses. The ship held about 160 people max.
For France, the tour was booked with Avalon Waterways, which is the river cruise arm of Globus Tours. All meals and airport transfers were included. There were included excursions for each day (for which I signed up just so they knew who was going on which excursion as there were choices) and there were some optionals for which I was charged extra if I wanted to participate. The included excursions and optionals both had choices that meant I could do something different in locations where I had been before (such as in Normandy, where I had already been to all of the D-Day landing beaches for the US, Canada and Britain) so I opted to tour the towns and villages of Normandy. I really liked that. Even in Paris I could do some new things.
Next Time — Preparing for anything (packing smart while traveling light), cash versus credit cards, and taking photos
