A Traveling Fool

When the tour group reached Loch Lomond, there was a kilted piper playing “Amazing Grace”. I pulled out my video camera and began filming. Since I was new to this, I wasn’t yet paying strong enough attention to what was happening in the periphery and didn’t notice two women converging from the left and the right until they were right in front of me – between my camera and the piper. I let out a four-letter word that has been captured on video for all posterity.

Our Tour Director, in addition to being a free spirit, was also quite a looker. Many (most actually) of the women on the tour were flirting quite openly with him. Once in a blue moon, a male tour director or a driver has been quite interested in establishing a liaison with at least one lady on the tour (I once had a driver pursuing me fairly aggressively). But this was not one of those times. It wasn’t long before he was seeking refuge with Mom and me. We were about the only women not vying for his attention. We both had boyfriends at the time and neither one of us has ever been the “one-night-stand” type. We definitely had more fun with him than any of the others as he relaxed and shared his humor and knowledge with us.

When I was a kid, I had read Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Kidnapped”. The main character in that novel, David Balfour, is sold by his uncle to a ship’s captain who is supposed to take him to the American Colonies. This is because his uncle wants David’s inheritance. The ship gets shipwrecked near the Isle of Mull and David escapes, along with Alan Breck Stewart (who was a real, historical figure). They get separated for a bit and then get reunited to flee across Rannoch Moor, as suspects in a murder (for which, in real life, Stewart was a suspect). Rannoch Moor is quite bleak and haunting.

From Rannoch Moor, we went to Glen Coe. This was a glen formed by volcanoes. In 1692, some of the Campbells and some English forces massacred several of the clan MacDonald after being given hospitality for the night by the MacDonalds. It was unheard of to harm anyone who provides Highland hospitality. So most of Scotland was up-in-arms over this.  It was supposedly punishment for not swearing loyalty to the new King and Queen (William and Mary) of England by the imposed deadline. Despite this horrendous massacre, it is a beautiful area, with a three peaked mountain called the Three Sisters.

From Glen Coe, we traveled up the Great Glen, which includes Loch Linnhe, Loch Lochy and Loch Ness, stopping off at Fort William. Fort William is where you can catch the “Hogwarts Express” out to Mallaig. We also stopped off at a World War II Memorial near Ben Nevis (the tallest mountain in the British Isles). It too was once a volcano.

After a quick visit to Loch Ness, we continued on to Culloden Moor. This time the battlefield was in the process of being cleared so that the clan graves could be seen. The memorial was in pretty good shape by this point and it was easy to get to it. They had a small visitor center where we were able to watch a video about the battle. They included a visit inside of a small cottage on the moor where twelve clanswomen were trapped and burned by the soldiers. This visit was the only time I saw that. They were looking for contributions towards creating a state-of-the-art visitor center and refurbishing the entire battlefield. I took one of their brochures and sent them some money – not a lot, but something to help at least a little.

That night, we stayed at a really lovely Victorian hotel outside of Grantown-on-Spey. It had once been a group of houses that ended up being connected together and turned into a hotel. Mom and I took a walk to the river and had a lovely time out in the Highland countryside.

It took a couple of years before I had another vacation. But in 2005, we went on a 21-day trip to Scotland, Wales, Ireland & Northern Ireland. We chose the trip because we would be able to travel to Caernarfon, which was where my mother’s maternal grandmother’s family was from. Since we had only bypassed Stirling Castle in 2003, we arrived in Glasgow a day early to take a day tour to Linlithgow Palace, Stirling Castle and a boat ride on Loch Lomond.

This was the trip where, in order to get from the gate where our delayed flight from Minneapolis arrived to the gate from which our connecting flight to Glasgow was departing, while going through the European Union entrance process at the airport in Amsterdam (Schiphol), we ended up literally running to the gate, just as they were getting ready to close it. I ran ahead while Mom followed as best as she could. I figured that, if I made it to the gate, I could ask them to wait for her. Fortunately we made it. Unfortunately, our cases didn’t. We were able to check in at the hotel right away and we had our carryon luggage, which included my camera. So, we let the hotel know that our bags would be arriving on a later flight and headed off to get some lunch and explore for a while.

The hotel was in a different part of the city from when we were there in 2003. So we weren’t close to George Square. We were close to an interestingly named thoroughfare – Sauchiehall Street. The Kelvingrove Art Museum was still under renovation, but some of its exhibits were being housed in an art gallery on Sauchiehall. A fair amount of the street was also pedestrian only with lots of restaurants, cafes, tea houses, shops, etc. After lunch and the art gallery, we walked around for a while, exploring that part of the city. Once we figured that our luggage might be at the hotel, we headed back. It not only was there, but they had already placed it in our room! We reorganized to get ready for the next day and arranged for a taxi to take us to the bus terminal (from where our day trip was leaving) in the morning, had an early dinner and relaxed with some wonderful British television before going to bed.

The information I had gotten from the tour company that was running the day trip spelled out exactly which spot we needed to be in the terminal to get our tour bus. Easy. Our group included a couple from Iceland, who had flown the two hour flight from Reykjavik just to spend the weekend in Glasgow, hanging out and doing some shopping. We also had a threesome from some Eastern European country who didn’t speak any English. The first part of the trip was driving to Edinburgh to pick up some more folks there. We got five. So we just had a total of 12 on the trip.

When we got to Linlithgow, the palace was mostly a ruin. But it was a royal palace for a couple hundred years. It was begun in the 14^th century and greatly rebuilt and enlarged in the 15^th. Mary, Queen of Scots, was born there in 1542. In more recent years, the palace was used as Wentworth Prison in the series “Outlander”. We didn’t spend a lot of time there. Just took some photos and moved on.

We had much more time at Stirling Castle. We arrived just in time for lunch. Then we began exploring. Stirling Castle is one of the largest castles in Scotland, so there is a lot to see. Like Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle sits on top of a large crag. The difference is that the crag Stirling Castle is on was never a volcano. Although a few structures date to the 14^th century, most of the present castle was built in the 15^th and 16^th centuries. Located near the center of the country, Stirling has always been strategically important and has seen its share of battles.

The first place we headed for was the Great Hall. This building had been restored to its former glory a few years before our visit. The hammerbeam ceiling had been restored and the exterior of the building had been limewashed with a golden color. Only a couple rooms of the Royal Palace were open to visitors. They had not yet been restored. We explored the buildings in the inner courtyard, which included the Royal Chapel. Then we went for a walk along the top of the walls, taking in the views. We could see the stone version of Stirling Bridge (the original on which William Wallace defeated the English in battle was wooden) and the Wallace Memorial off in the distance. We came down from the wall to visit the Great Kitchen, which had already been restored, along with mannequins and representational foods.

Naturally, the castle is reportedly haunted by a Green Lady (thought to be a servant of Mary, Queen of Scots) and a Pink Lady, thought to be Mary herself. She really gets around. Her ghost is said to haunt several places in Scotland and even a few in England. We both really liked Stirling Castle and were glad we had taken the extra day.

Near Stirling is a village named Doune. It is known mainly for two things – Doune Castle and the manufacture of pistols. It is said that it was a Doune pistol that fired the first shot of the American Revolution. Built in the 14^th century, the castle has been very important in the history of Scotland and, more recently, in the history of film and television. Much of “Monty Python & the Holy Grail” was filmed at Doune Castle, with various parts of the castle standing in for nearly all of the castles in the film. It has also been Winterfell in “Game of Thrones” and Castle Leoch in “Outlander”.

We passed through Callander on our way to Aberfoyle for an afternoon break. By this time, although I did not yet have a digital camera, I was getting a disc of my photos along with my prints when I had my film developed (so no more scanning in photos for this blog). I also had purchased a video camera that filmed directly onto a mini-disc that I could play on my DVD player at home, watching whatever I filmed on my TV. I looked for and didn’t find my little dancing owl friend. Either he was no longer there or he just wasn’t in the mood for dancing that day.

Our final stop of the day, before returning to Glasgow, was Loch Lomond for a boat ride on the loch. I love going for boat rides and I was especially pleased to be riding along on one of the most famous lakes in the world. In all my trips to Scotland so far, this is the only one where I have had the opportunity to take a ride on Loch Lomond. There were villages, the occasional lone house, some mansions and a couple castles along the shore. The weather was pretty good, so we had a very pleasant outing and chatted with our new Icelandic acquaintances.

 

Once nicknamed “Athens of the North”, Edinburgh was built on seven hills, which are extinct volcanos. The big three are Castle Rock (where Edinburgh Castle is located), Calton Hill (mainly a park with some monuments), and Arthur’s Seat (a windswept crag that has evidence of Iron Age and Bronze Age settlements and is still essentially wild). A fourth is called Corstorphine Hill and was where our hotel was located for this visit.

Due to a mix-up, the hotel had decided that my mom and I were one person instead of two and had given us a small room with a twin bed. They were all booked up and so didn’t have any other rooms. Our tour director switched with us since his room was large enough to add a rollaway bed – sort of. I needed to climb across Mom’s bed to get to the rollaway, but we were only staying for two nights. We had been in close quarters together before and survived, so we figured we could make it through this too.

The central part of Edinburgh is divided into two sections – the Old Town and the New Town. The Old Town is mainly along the trail of lava that flowed down from Castle Rock to where Holyrood Palace (the Queen’s official residence when she is in Edinburgh) is located. The group of roads that follow the flow is called The Royal Mile. The Old Town is mostly medieval and has tall buildings (six to eight stories) that were built prior to the invention of lifts (elevators). Depending upon where the building is located, you can go in one door and actually be on the fourth floor, with the ground floor accessed from another street on another side of the building (that happened with a hotel in which I stayed on a later trip).

The New Town is Georgian and was built mostly on the flat ground on the other side of a loch (that was then drained). It is a very unique city. I can’t say that I’ve ever experienced another place quite like it.

In the 18^th and 19^th centuries, it was considered to be quite intellectual, which was when it acquired the nickname “Athens of the North”. There are several universities and private schools plus loads of museums. Edinburgh has been home to several authors, including Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Ian Rankin, and J. K. Rowling. Numerous philosophers,  artists, scientists (such as Charles Darwin), physicians, inventors (such as Alexander Graham Bell), architects, and engineers have also called Edinburgh home.

Just the other side of Arthur’s Seat from Holyrood Palace is a very old, tiny village called Duddingston. It has been settled for several centuries and has a pub called the Sheep Heid Inn that dates back to 1360. That was where we went for dinner on our first night in Edinburgh. The place also has a skittles alley. Skittles is a much older variety of, and forerunner to, bowling.

On this trip, we were taken around town the next morning and then dropped off at Edinburgh Castle. We had a ticket for admission, but not a guided tour, so we could explore at our own pace. Then, the rest of the day was free until we were to be picked up in the late afternoon in front of the Hard Rock Café on George Street in the New Town. Edinburgh was the one location on this particular tour where we had plenty of time to explore.

Since Mom and I had been to Edinburgh Castle before, we didn’t spend a lot of extra time there. But we definitely wanted to see the Scottish Crown Jewels as well as the Stone of Scone (which had finally been returned to Scotland in 1996 after King Edward I had taken it in 1296. It had spent 700 years under the coronation chair in Westminster Abbey, where we had last seen it). We had the entire Royal Mile as well as Holyrood Palace to see. So we did the royal apartments (which included the Crown Jewels) and St Margaret’s Chapel and headed down the road.

Our first stop was Gladstone’s Land. This had been the home of a 17^th century merchant. So, a roughly middle class person. It was fun to see. The turnpike stairs were very narrow (and the house six stories in height). It seemed to be a quite accurate portrayal of Edinburgh life in the early 1600s. They had these things to fit over one’s shoes call pattens, the purpose of which was to be able to keep your feet above the filth found in the streets. This was in the time of the contents of chamber pots being pitched out of the windows.

Our next stop was lunch, followed by visits to St Giles’ Cathedral (where John Knox preached) and John Knox’s House (where he died). In between was Deacon Brodie’s Tavern. Deacon Brodie was Robert Louis Stevenson’s model for “Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde”. He actually ended up being hanged on a scaffold that he had designed.

Holyrood began with a legend. King David I of Scotland had a vision of the cross (or Holy Rood) and built Holyrood Abbey on the spot where the vision led him in 1128. The ruins are still there. In the early 1500s, King James IV of Scotland (grandfather of Mary, Queen of Scots), built a palace next door to the Abbey.

Mary, Queen of Scots had her residence there when, in 1566, her private secretary, David Rizzio, was dragged from the Queen’s private supper room (next to her bedchamber) and murdered in front of the Queen and her ladies by the Queen’s husband, Lord Darnley, and several of his cronies. Darnley was not the brightest bulb in the fixture and was also likely drunk at the time. He ended up being murdered a few years later himself. After Rizzio’s murder (he was stabbed 56 times), Mary fled to Edinburgh Castle to await the birth of her son, James. The room in which he was born is so tiny that there is barely enough room to take a photo (or a decent selfie). He became James VI of Scotland and followed Elizabeth I to the throne of England as James I. He was the fella who commissioned the King James Bible.

After James VI became James I, the palace wasn’t used much as he spent most of his time in London. Once James’ son, Charles I, was beheaded and Oliver Cromwell took over, part of the palace (not the part with Mary’s rooms) was burned down and the rest of the place was not exactly treated with respect. In 1671, after Charles II was restored to the throne, he had Holyrood Palace rebuilt, keeping the tower containing Mary’s rooms intact.

The entire palace is wonderful to visit and I do so every time I am in Edinburgh. In addition to the apartments that had belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots, I especially enjoy the Gallery. This is because it is lined with portraits of every monarch Scotland has ever had, back to ancient times. Since most of these people never had a likeness made when they were alive, there is no way of knowing what they actually looked like. The artist apparently used the same model a lot as most of the early portraits look alike. I understand the sentiment behind all of those portraits. But I find it quite amusing.

I also like the bed in the King’s Bedchamber. In the Victorian era, it was displayed in Mary, Queen of Scots bedchamber. Tourists were told that it had been Mary’s bed. The reality is that the bed was made nearly 100 years after Mary was executed. It was the correct time period for the bedchamber that had been created by Charles II in the 1670s, however, so it was moved there. That also gives me a chuckle. So glad that present day historians are a little more accurate regarding their facts. The current bed in Mary’s bedchamber wasn’t hers either, but at least it is from the right time period.

Photos are not allowed inside Holyrood Palace, which just irritates me to no end. But, what are you going to do? Those are the rules. Fortunately, these days, there are plenty of professional photos on the internet, plus I bought some books with photos back when I was there. Oh, and there is a ghost too. What decent castle or palace doesn’t have at least one ghost?

Getting from Holyrood Palace to the Hard Rock Café on George Street looked so easy on the map. But that wasn’t taking into account that Edinburgh isn’t all on one level. We ended up on some streets that were a couple stories beneath where we wanted to be. It took some reconnoitering and a few flights of stairs to correct the situation. Where we ended up was actually pretty interesting and was very, very old. I think it is included in some of the “haunted Edinburgh” tours.

Once we got to the Hard Rock Café, we still had enough time to sit at one of the outdoor tables and have some ice cream before the tour bus arrived to take us back to the hotel. Some of the other members of our tour group who made it there with time to spare, joined us. The latecomers seemed rather envious when they arrived as we finished our ice cream and the bus was loading up.

When we got back to the hotel, we found that some folks had checked out that day and that we had been upgraded to a Superior Room for the night (What? No suites?). We weren’t going to be in the room much, however, since we had signed up for the Scottish Night option. Nearly every tour to Edinburgh includes this option. An entire ballroom at the hotel where they had it was used and packed to the gills. It was a dinner with Scottish music, both instrumental and vocal, plus some special Scottish dancing and an emcee who was a comedian who’s main line of jokes involved what was or wasn’t worn under the kilt. The music and dancing were good; the food okay; the comedy bleh. It was worth doing the once, but it hasn’t been a repeat experience for me. We did get to try some haggis, which I actually liked and have had a few times since in Scottish restaurants.

The following day, we headed back to Glasgow, making some stops along the way. The first stop was Bannockburn, where Robert the Bruce trounced the English army, led by King Edward II, in 1314. Although his father, Edward I, had been quite the soldier and nicknamed “the hammer of the Scots”, Edward II not so much. In the aftermath, England had to recognize Scottish sovereignty and Robert the Bruce as the Scottish king. The two countries remained separate (although the Stone of Scone remained at Westminster Abbey) until James VI of Scotland took the throne as James I of England in 1603.

Although Bannockburn was where Scotland won its independence, it was where I managed to catch a chill that led to a doozy of a cold. It was a cold, dark, blustery day up on that hill where the monument to the Battle of Bannockburn resides. While we were there, it began to rain – in torrents. We headed towards Stirling, but bypassed the town, seeing the castle from a distance. Then we headed west to Aberfoyle – Rob Roy country.

We had lunch in Aberfoyle and watched some sheep dog trials. Those dogs are amazing. Next to where they had the sheep dog trials, they had several birds of prey. They had falconz, hawks and eagles of different types, plus several owls. There was this one, tiny little owl who was dancing to some music only he could hear. He was adorable. I didn’t yet own a video camera, so I couldn’t record him doing his thing, but I did get a photo.

By the time we arrived in Glasgow, I was very ill. We were having a group dinner that night. So I got everything ready for the next day, went and had dinner and came back to the room as early as possible. I did sleep a lot on the plane on the way home. We had to switch again in Amsterdam, but then I had hours before we reached Minneapolis. The flight attendants took pity on me, as they could tell I was quite feverish, and kept pouring liquids down me. Fortunately, we were right next to a lavatory.

Glenfinnan, on the shores of Loch Shiel, is significant as the location of Hogwarts School in the Harry Potter films. Harry Potter fans will also recognize the viaduct of the West Highland Railway, which the Hogwarts Express takes to get to the school (and under which Ron and Harry drove a flying car). But Glenfinnan is also historically significant as the location where Bonnie Prince Charlie (Prince Charles Edward Stuart, grandson of the exiled King James II), and the clansmen he gathered (known as the Jacobites), raised his standard in 1745 – ultimately leading to the Battle of Culloden and his retreat to France, never to return.

I took photos of both the monument to the Prince, as well as the distant location of Hogwarts on the edge of the loch, and the viaduct. I still haven’t ridden the train, but I did get it chugging along, blowing its whistle and belching out steam, on video on a later trip.

Close to the Isle of Skye, three sea lochs – Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh – meet at a little island called Eilean Donan. On the island is one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. The castle was originally founded in the 13^th century by the Mackenzies and was destroyed by government ships in 1719 due to the owner’s involvement in the Jacobite rebellions. Between 1919 and 1932, the castle was restored and has been open to the public since 1955. We didn’t get to tour it on this trip, but I did a few years later. Loved it! It has been used in several films, most notably in “Highlander”.

Further north, the waters of Loch Maree were once thought to have curative powers – as a cure for lunacy. I can just hear my friends and family who are reading this saying, “Did you have your swimsuit with you?” Due to its remote location, it doesn’t get a lot of tourists. But it is beautiful.

On the shores of Loch Ness are the remains of Urquhart Castle. Nessie is rumored to hide out in an underwater cavern beneath the castle. The present castle ruins date from the 13^th to the 16^th centuries and was built over the ruins of a medieval castle. It is now one of the most visited castles in Scotland and is one of the largest in area.

After a photo stop at Urquhart, we went on to the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition at Drumnadrochit. It was an interesting collection of items, photos, etcetera of Nessie through the years, beginning with a reported encounter between St Columba (the guy who founded the monastery on Iona) and the monster in 565. Just outside (after an extensive gift shop) is a replica of what Nessie is thought to look like in a pond. Then we boarded boats for a ride on the loch.

I love to go for boats rides, so was perfectly happy to go out on the loch and look for Nessie. It was a beautiful, calm day with very little wind, so the water was as smooth as glass. The water is quite murky because of the high content of peat, so any rolling water looks black and looks like there could be something large and black moving just below the surface. The wake of the boat frequently looked like something could be following us. Add to this the fact that the loch is exceptionally deep. The entire Eiffel Tower could be upended and immersed in Loch Ness with room to spare.

It is really quite a pretty place. Due to the Loch Ness Monster legend, however, over the years the loch and the area around it, has attracted all sorts of people looking for monsters, or practicing witchcraft and/or other dark arts. They had a fairly prominent warlock (male witch) living on the shore in a pretty good-sized house and estate back in the late 1800s. I seem to remember them saying that he met a rather odd end — something to do with a kelpie (a legendary water horse, prevalent in Scotland, that likes to drown people).

We stayed the night in an old Victorian hotel just across the river from Inverness Castle (which is where the government offices are located). We really enjoyed the hotel’s atmosphere, food and location. After dinner, we went for a walk along the river and over the bridge to the other side and back. It was in the river where St. Columba had his encounter with the Loch Ness Monster, which was supposedly why it fled the river to the loch.

Our next stop was the Culloden Battlefield. The date was 9/11 in 2003 and was raining hard when we got there. They didn’t yet have much for visitors to see (now there is plenty to see and do, including a wonderful visitor center) and we hiked quite a ways in the mud to get to what little could be seen. But the tour director led us in a moment of silence and prayer once we got to the small memorial they had at the time.

In 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s followers, who were mostly Scottish Highland Clansmen, faced down a much larger force of the British Army and some Scots who weren’t interested in backing the Stuart claim to the throne. The battle itself didn’t last long. Those Jacobites who backed Bonnie Prince Charlie who weren’t killed outright, we either slaughtered in the aftermath or taken as prisoners to Carlisle or the Tower of London. Bonnie Prince Charlie escaped and fled to the Isle of Skye (where the whole story of Flora McDonald comes in) and on to France.

The kilt, bagpipes, tartan in general, the Scots Gaelic language – basically anything really Scottish – were outlawed. No Scotsman could own a weapon of any kind and large numbers of entire Scottish families fled to Australia, Canada, and the American Colonies (which is one reason, along with the later Highland Clearances, why so many Scots ended up in places other than Scotland). The song “Auld Lang Syne” that everybody sings on New Year’s Eve was written about the “Days Long Ago” before all of this happened. The British National Anthem, “God Save the King/Queen”, was appropriated from the song that had been used by the Jacobites and made its debute four months after the battle. It wasn’t until King George IV made a visit to Scotland in 1822, wearing a kilt, that it started to become okay to be Scottish and keep Scottish traditions again. Later, Queen Victoria’s love of Scotland, and all things Scottish, made it very popular.

After Culloden, we visited a distillery and learned how Scotch whiskey was made. We also found that one of the byproducts of the whiskey distillation process is a cattle feed that is given to the cattle in Scotland. This feed kept them free of the mad cow disease that plagued so much of the rest of Britain. The feed also produces a very tasty meat.

Many of the roads in the Highlands of Scotland are what they call “single track”. This is a single lane road, but with small areas to pull over should you meet someone coming from the opposite direction. The idea is that, whoever is closest to a passing place, pulls over and lets the other party drive past. We were in Braemar and nearing Balmoral when we passed by a fella who had pulled over for us. We found that it was Prince Phillip. He gave us a wave as we went by.

A while later, we stopped in a lovely village for lunch at a pub there. A couple of dogs called the pub home. They walked around and greeted everybody who came in, then found a spot to lie down and keep an eye on everyone. I was missing my dog by that point. They allowed for some petting upon arrival, but then they had a job to do. The pub was very old with lots of dark wood and stone. Very cozy. After lunch, we needed to get across a hump-backed bridge about a mile down the road, so we all got off the bus and walked across to lighten the load.

We turned south near Dundee and arrived in St Andrews for an afternoon break. Most of the people on the tour were interested in the Old Course and the Museum of Golf. The tour coach parked next to the museum. Mom and I were interested in the castle and the cathedral, even though they were in ruins. We nearly flew down the road to get to the castle and maybe see a little of it before we needed to head back to the coach. Unfortunately, the person in front of me in the shop (which was where you also bought the tickets) had loads and loads of questions. So we ended up spending our entire time standing behind this guy, looking at our watches. Our time was up before the other person was finished, so we sighed and headed for the exit. The person behind the register said, “I’ll be with you in a minute.” But we had to respond, “Our time is up. We’re on a tour.”

That can be one problem with a tour – limited time in a location where you’d love to stay longer. But I recently had lunch and an entire afternoon in St. Andrews, which was also on a tour. This tour in 2003 was a short (nine days) introductory tour of Scotland. So all of our visits were fairly short. On longer tours I have had much longer periods of time to see what I want to see. But in 2003, I was just getting a taste of all that Scotland had to offer, which is a lot.

From St Andrews, we continued down to Edinburgh, the topic of the next post.

At the time of Clan MacDougall’s inception in the late 12^th century, they held most of the area of Scotland known as Argyll, plus Mull and most of the southern western isles. Clan Campbell came along about a hundred years later and came into conflict with the MacDougall clan over whose territory Argyll should be. Then came Robert the Bruce, who murdered John Comyn in 1306 because he felt Comyn was too strong of a rival for the Scottish throne. The MacDougalls were kinsmen of Comyn, so they met Bruce at the Brander Pass, were ambushed by him, and lost — badly. Because the Campbells had backed Bruce, he gave them all of Argyll. This was the territory we came into as we left Glasgow and entered the Highlands.

After leaving Glasgow, we passed Dumbarton, which has a castle on Dumbarton Rock where Mary, Queen of Scots once stayed. Our first actual stop was the village of Luss on the western shore of Loch Lomond (a fresh water loch — Scottish for “lake”). It is a picturesque village with cute little cottages and loads of flowers. The loch is considered to be the boundary between the lowlands and the highlands of Scotland and is the largest inland body of water in Great Britain.

The song “The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond” was supposedly written by a Scotsman who was imprisoned in Carlisle Castle (just across the border into England) on sentence of death after the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The “high road” was for one who was living and the “low road” was for one who was dead.

A very steep climb out of a glen when heading further west from Loch Lomond peaks at a very appropriately named spot called Rest and Be Thankful. The road and the name were created in the 1700s when travel was by foot or horse. Although the tour bus didn’t have quite the strain to get up the mountain as a horse or a person, we did stop and get out just to look at the beautiful views.

Our next stop was the town of Inverary on Loch Fyne, which is a sea loch. The area is heavily engaged in the business of oysters and herring. This was where we had lunch that day.

The town had been rebuilt on its present location in 1770 when the Duke of Argyll (chief of Clan Campbell) decided that where the town was originally located was a perfect place for him to build a new castle. So the Duke had a new town built, moved everyone into it, tore down the old town, and built his castle. Fans of “Downton Abbey” would recognize the castle from the 2012 Christmas episode when the Granthams visited their Scottish cousins. We didn’t have time to tour the castle on this trip (we did a couple years later), but we ran as fast as we could to get as close to it as we could to take a decent photo.

Continuing west, we reached Loch Awe and the ruins of Kilchurn Castle. Loch Awe is a fresh water loch known for trout fishing. It has several ruined castles sitting on islands. The most spectacular is the 15^th century Kilchurn Castle. It was a Campbell stronghold which was struck by lightning in 1760. Its setting is also spectacular, so photos of it are gorgeous without much effort on the part of the photographer.  It was a short trip through the Pass of Brander from there to Oban, with the remains of two MacDougall castles – Dunollie and Dunstaffnage.

Dunstaffnage is partially ruined and dates to the 13^th century. After the Battle of the Pass of Brander (1308 or 1309), it became a crown property, held by the King of Scotland. In the 15^th century, the King gave it to the Campbells. Prior to the existence of Dunstaffnage, there was an earlier Dál Riatan castle on the site from about the 7^th century. The Dál Riatans were the people known as the Scots (or Scoti) after whom Scotland would eventually be named when one of their kings (Kenneth MacAlpin) became the king of the entire country.

Dunollie Castle, originally called “Dun Ollaigh”, was also an ancient fortress of the Dál Riatan kings. Nobody is certain how old it really is, but it was burned down a few times in the 7^th and 8^th centuries and could date back as far as the 5^th (when the Dál Riatan Scots first arrived in the area) or the 6^th century. It was refortified with an earthwork castle in the 12^th or 13^th century.

After the Battle of the Pass of Brander, the castle was given to the Campbells, but was regained by the MacDougalls later in the 14^th century. In the 15^th century, it was rebuilt. The ruins that you see today are mostly from that time. But by 1745, the castle was abandoned and Dunollie House was built just downhill from the ruins.

The MacDougalls (from whom I have some ancestry on my father’s side) are the Lords of Lorne (the Dál Riatan Kingdom of Lorn) and are mainly descendents of the Dál Riatan Scots (a Celtic race originally from what is now Northern Ireland) with a fair amount of Norse Orcadian thrown in.

In Oban, we found that our hotel was just down the road from Dunollie Castle. So we walked to the castle. It was too late in the day for a tour, but we got a pretty decent look at the outside.

Just before dinner that night, I was introduced to the Scottish way of drinking Bailey’s Irish Cream – with milk, no ice. I was also introduced to a Scottish version of Bailey’s that had heather in it. Both were pretty tasty. I still have Bailey’s with milk upon occasion at home.

Cullen Skink, Plaice, Neeps & Tatties, and Banoffee Pie were served for dinner. Cullen Skink is a cream soup with smoked haddock, potatoes and onions. Plaice is a type of fish caught in the North Sea. Neeps & Tatties are just turnips and potatoes. In this case they were diced and mixed together. Banoffee Pie is made of bananas and caramel with a whipped cream topping. By the time we were done with that meal, we were beginning to have Scottish accents ourselves.

The next day, we took the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry to the Isle of Mull. This had also once been a MacDougall possession. Our purpose on this trip was to drive the long way across the island to take the ferry to Iona and visit the Abbey there. Mull was where I encountered my first Highland Cow and had my first taste of Irn Bru (a bright orange soft drink that tastes like a cross between an orange Crush and a cream soda). Our tour director told us that we didn’t want to get too close to the “hairy coos” as they could be rather dangerous because of their horns and their weight and that we wanted to stay up wind of them as they could be “a wee wiffy” (rather stinky). They are mighty cute, however, with their short stature and long red fur that tends to spend most of its time in their eyes. They come in black, white or yellow too.

When we got to Iona, we found that we were in the middle of a “rush hour” (although there are no cars on the island). It seemed that everyone else had picked that same time to be there. Mom and I decided to get something to eat and then head for the abbey. Bad idea. The cafeteria was crammed with people. It took forever to get food, find a place to sit and eat it, use the facilities and head out. By that point, we had limited time on the island. The abbey was still crowded with people, was fenced off, charged a fee, and wasn’t letting anyone in at the moment because there were so many people. That left us with exploring the small chapel and cemetery outside of the abbey itself. Supposedly I have some ancestors buried in that cemetery. Once again, though, the grave stones were so old that most of them were barely decipherable, plus many of them have been moved inside of the Abbey Museum to protect them from further erosion. So I couldn’t find anybody specifically. It is a great location with the sea lapping on the shore just below the cemetery. Not at all a bad spot for one’s relations to come and visit one’s grave.

Iona was part of the Dál Riatan kingdom. In roughly 563, St Columba, who is credited with bringing Christianity to Scotland, much in the same way that St Patrick brought it to Ireland, founded a monastery on Iona. The Celtic Cross is considered to have originated on Iona. The Book of Kells was begun on Iona and moved to Kells when the Vikings kept raiding the island and killing off several of the monks. The monastery was finally abandoned in the 9^th century.

Somerled (the fella whose sons originated both the MacDougall and MacDonald clans) led a raid of Iona in the late 12^th century that freed it from its Norse hold. It became a holy site again. The Abbey was built in 1203 and a convent (led by Somerled’s daughter, Bethoc) was established in 1208. Somerled is thought to have built the small chapel in the cemetery.

In a later trip, when I was able to return to Iona, I grabbed a sandwich at a small shop, which I ate on the way to the abbey, which was no longer fenced off or charging a fee (there were fees to see various parts of it, but no fee just to get inside), plus we were there at a time when there were fewer people. Once again, timing was all.

Although we had visited Edinburgh as part of a trip to London in 1991, 2003 was our first full trip to Scotland. We were joining a tour in Glasgow in the evening and had arrived that morning. We had booked a Hop-On/Hop-Off city tour which originated in George Square – not far from our hotel. We got checked in just fine and then walked over to George Square.

There was a marathon going on, so some of the places we wanted to see would be difficult to get to until the marathon ended. The route of the tour bus was altered until then. We were apparently on the wrong side of the marathon route as most of the locations we planned to visit would be unreachable by the tour bus for a few hours. So we decided to make do with what we could see, then have some lunch and reassess.

The commentary on the bus was live and provided by a fella who was on the upper deck (it was a double-decker, open on top). Everyone was given earbuds to be able to hear what was said clearly. The bus took off, the guy began to talk, and Mom and I looked at each other in horror. We couldn’t understand a word he said. It wasn’t a technical malfunction. It was a very strong Glaswegian accent being experienced for the first time by two Americans who had never heard a Scottish accent stronger than Billy Connolly or Sean Connery before. We thought that perhaps we had made an enormous mistake. What were we going to do if we couldn’t understand anybody the entire trip?

Fortunately the first stop we got to was a tall ship in the harbor that we wanted to explore. We got off of the bus there, took our time at the ship (which had everything written on placards, so no needing to understand what anybody was saying) and got on the next tour bus that came along once we were ready to go. This time, we were mighty relieved to be able to understand the fella doing the commentary with very little difficulty. Whew! One of the topics he talked about was explaining that, in Scotland, a jury can vote one of three ways: 1) guilty, 2) not guilty, and 3) not proven. The last one means that the jury thinks the person is likely guilty, but it wasn’t proven by the prosecution. The defendant gets to go free just the same as if they were not guilty. This is where the expression, “Getting off Scot free” comes from.

The Kelvingrove Museum, which was another place we wanted to see (and would have provided us with a couple of hours of time for exploring before the marathon ended) was closed for a major facelift. So we got off at Glasgow University to look around for a bit, then rode back to George Square. We had some lunch while I studied a map to figure out if there was a way we might be able to walk over to the Cathedral. A lovely person at the café where we were eating told us that the runners will have already been by a place where we could cross (which she pointed out on the map) by the time we would finish our lunch. Now we had a plan. Happy day! We took our time eating and visiting the WC before striking off on our way to the Cathedral.

It turned out to be a bit of a hike, but it was that or return to our hotel room or just sit and stare in George Square. The area where the Cathedral was located also included Provand’s Lordship and St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life and Art.

Nobody is sure when St Mungo (also known as Kentigern) was born. But he died in 614. He built his first church where Glasgow Cathedral now stands. This is also the location where he was buried. His shrine can be seen down in the crypt. The Cathedral was built about 1136 and is considered to be a superb example of Scottish Gothic architecture. We were very disappointed that the crypt was closed (this seemed to be one of those bad timing days) and we couldn’t go down and see St Mungo’s tomb.

St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life and Art was designed to blend in with Provand’s Lordship, which is right across the street from it. It was an interesting place to visit and contained some beautiful art from various periods. We especially liked the medieval art they had on display. It reminded us of some of the art we had seen at The Cloisters in Upper Manhattan in New York City.

Provand’s Lordship is the oldest house in Glasgow and was built in 1471. It is a museum of medieval life and furnished with authentic 17^th century furniture. A 15^th century garden has been recreated behind the building.

After leaving Provand’s Lordship, we continued on the rest of the route until we were back in George Square again. Heading back to the hotel, a couple women from Edinburgh stopped us and asked for directions. I actually knew how to get to where they wanted to go and explained it to them. The one woman was highly amused that she had actually asked “a Yank” for directions in Glasgow. I tend to memorize maps, so I don’t have to walk around with my face in one. I always have it handy, should I need it, however. The bag that I use for my maps and cameras also doesn’t look like a camera bag. So I sometimes fool people into thinking that I likely live there as opposed to being a tourist.

One of our discoveries regarding understanding the Scots accent is that it is stronger in some areas than others and Glasgow has one of the strongest. I noticed that, some Scots, when speaking among themselves were very difficult to understand. But, if they spoke to me, I had no trouble understanding them at all. They would vary the accent according to the listener, speaking more distinctly when the listener wasn’t Scottish. There is a running joke in the UK, however, that nobody can understand a Scot but another Scot.

To further complicate matters, there are three languages can are spoken around Scotland – English, Scots and Scots Gaelic. Scots Gaelic is spoken more frequently out in the western isles than on the mainland (except in the Highlands) and is a totally different language. It is one of the Celtic languages, along with Irish Gaelic, Welsh, and Manx (spoken on the Isle of Man). One phrase that I know in Scots Gaelic is “Nollaig Chridheil” – meaning “Merry Christmas”. I know this because I have a plaid Christmas ornament I bought in Scotland with that on it.

Scots is a variant of Old English that is mainly spoken in the Lowlands. If you have ever sung “Auld Lang Syne” (which was written by Robert Burns in 1788), then you have sung a song in Scots. “Merry Christmas” in Scots is “Blithe Yule”. The song “The Twelve Days of Christmas” ends up with the following gifts having been received: one capercailzie, two bubblyjocks, three clockin hens, fower roaster dyeuks, five ingen rings, six clootie dumplins, seven trifles reemin, echt robins cheepin, nine clarsachs strumming, ten pipers piping, eleven fiddlers bowing and twai haggis puddins. A bubblyjock is a turkey.

That night we met up with our tour director, driver, and fellow travelers. The next morning we headed out on our nine day Scottish adventure where we both fell in love with the country and people of Scotland.

As with most things in life, on a trip, timing can be everything — both for good and for bad. Most of the time, there isn’t much that can be done about it either way, so it’s best to just go with it. On our 2002 trip to London, we hit three major timing situations – two that were really good and one not so good.

The first one was on the day we visited Southwark. From the Anchor Inn, we decided to walk back along the river to the Waterloo Bridge, which would take us to our hotel. We had tickets to a play that night, but had plenty of time before we needed to be at the theatre, especially since we had already gotten something to eat at the Anchor Inn.

We wanted to see the London Millennium Footbridge, which had been built after our last trip to London. When it was first opened, people were quite taken aback because it swayed. It was nicknamed the “Wobbly Bridge” and was closed again until they could stabilize it. On the Southwark side, it starts near Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and the Anchor Inn and ends across the river not too far from St Paul’s Cathedral. It’s quite graceful-looking. I didn’t get any decent photos of it as it was already starting to get somewhat dim so what I got is pretty grey.

By the time we got to the Waterloo Bridge, it was dark. We saw several people just standing around on the bridge, so we asked them what was up. We were told that they were waiting for the Lord Mayor’s Fireworks. He had done his annual parade earlier in the day, which we had missed by being on the Southwark side of the river, and was about to cap it off by setting off fireworks over the river (the combination of the parade and the fireworks is called “The Lord Mayor’s Show”). They said that the best views were from the bridge we were on. So we stuck around and chatted with folks for a few minutes and pretty soon the fireworks began.

The best part was the fact that it was in London over the Thames. It went on for about twenty minutes and then we made our way across the rest of the bridge, up to the Strand, and a short distance along the Strand to our hotel. We still made it to our play that night with no difficulties.

The not-so-good timing involved the Guildhall. We had tried to see the inside of the Guildhall a couple of times on previous trips. It is large and medieval and supposedly gorgeous. But, each time, the Guildhall itself was closed because of some function. We had managed to see the art gallery attached to it on one visit and the excavations of the Roman Amphitheatre beneath it on another. We were hoping that, this time, we would get to see the actual Guildhall itself. No such luck. The Lord Mayor was using it for a luncheon. It was closed for a few days either side of the luncheon for preparation and security reasons. So we decided to check out some other places we either wanted to revisit or had just passed by before without visiting.

Every London trip, pretty much, includes the Temple, partly because it is very close to the hotel. This time, we spent a little more time in the precincts of the Temple instead of mainly in the church. Though we still went in the church anyway. The first time we visited the church, the effigies of the knights were scattered around and you could practically trip over them. Each visit after, they seemed to show them more and more respect. This time they had them in groups and they were roped off. No tripping. No touching. By my most recent trip, they were completely fenced off and you can’t get anywhere near them. Since two of the effigies are ancestors of mine, I find that disappointing. A third ancestor is also buried there, but doesn’t have an effigy.

The entire Temple area is very nice. There are beautiful, old buildings, fountains, gardens, and the grounds where the knights would joust and drill. There is also a very cool memorial to the playwright Oliver Goldsmith, who wrote “She Stoops to Conquer”. He was buried just outside of the Temple Church.

Back through the gate out on Fleet Street, we visited St Dunstan’s Church. In the past, we had simply walked by on our way someplace else. This time we decided to see the inside. It had originally been founded between 988 and 1070. But in the early 1800s, it was removed and rebuilt over its cemetery in order to allow for the widening of Fleet Street. The interior is an unusual octagonal shape. Several of the fittings of the older church have been incorporated into the new. Both the poet, John Donne and William Tyndale (who was the first to translate the Bible into English) gave sermons or lectures in the older version of the church and Samuel Pepys was a regular.

On the other side of Fleet Street and just a short walk away, is St Bride’s. This is the church whose spire looks like a multi-layered wedding cake. It was designed by Sir Christopher Wren (same guy who designed St Paul’s Cathedral) to replace the church that had been gutted by the Great Fire of 1666. Indeed the baker who created the first wedding cake was a London baker who used the steeple of St Bride’s as his inspiration.

St Bride’s origins are really ancient. It was founded by St Bridget in the 6^th century. The current church is the seventh built on the site. Remains of all seven churches can be viewed in excavations beneath the church. These excavations came about when, during the Luftwaffe bombing raids of World War II, the 6^th century foundations of the church were exposed. This is also the church where the parents of Virginia Dare, the first child born in the British colonies of what became America (in Roanoke), were married.

We stopped off at St Paul’s Cathedral to explore the area around it before heading off to the Museum of London. The museum was built in the 1970s to house items found in archeological digs and exhibits on life in London in different historical eras. There is a very good exhibit on the Great Fire of 1666 as well as what the city was like back in Victorian times, with a reproduction of a Victorian street and buildings. The route within the museum takes visitors from prehistory to the modern day in chronological order. We spent a large amount of time in the museum.

Even its location is historic as it is located on the road named London Wall that follows the course of the northern stretch of that wall. A sizeable hunk of the wall itself lies exposed just outside of the museum. The wall was begun by the Romans and then expanded by the Saxons and maintained all through medieval times plus up to the time of the Great Fire. After the Great Fire, parts of the wall were pulled down or incorporated into buildings. Another large chunk of the wall stands just outside the Tower Hill Tube Station. This piece is largely 3^rd century Roman. Some street names, such as Ludgate, Aldgate, and Cripplegate reflect where the city gates were once located.

From the museum, we went by the Guildhall and took a photo from the outside. Then we continued over towards the Tower of London and St Katherine’s Dock. Tower Hill has archeological evidence showing that it once was a Bronze Age settlement as well as a Roman site. This was part of the Londinium that Boudicca burned down during her uprising against the Romans in around 60 or 61 AD. Tower Hill is just north of the Tower of London and was the site of countless executions of prisoners who had been held in the Tower of London and were executed publically (as opposed to the private royal executions within the Tower precincts).

Just to the east of the Tower of London is St Katherine’s Dock. This was an area with warehouses for tea and spices that is now a marina for pleasure boats with shops, restaurants and flats (apartments and condos). In the midst of the marina is a lovely, 18^th century building that was either a former tea or spice warehouse or a brewery. It is the Dickens Inn, which includes a pub and a restaurant. This was where we went to have our main meal of the day. Although we couldn’t get inside of the Guildhall, we still had a memorable day.

The final example of really good timing came a couple days later when we were heading down Whitehall to visit Westminster Abbey. There were barricades along the sides of the road and police stationed at regular intervals all along the route. There weren’t a large number of people waiting to see what was going to come down the road, however, so we thought that whatever was happening wasn’t going to happen until later. Wrong.

We got about as far as Downing Street and then heard the clatter of horse’s hooves on pavement from behind. There was a low wall to sit on at that point. So Mom sat down and I got my camera out, stepped up to the barricade and started taking photos. First there were loads and loads of the mounted horseguards. Then came an ornate carriage followed by many more horseguards.

There was just me standing by the barricade and my mom sitting on the low wall. No other people at all. The police kept their eyes on us and on the area in general, but that was it. Then the carriage went by and I found myself looking face to face at the Queen, who was smiling and waving at me. I smiled and waved back. By the time I recovered my composure enough to take a picture, both she and the Duke of Edinburgh were looking the other direction. That is the photo you will see below.

What we had happened upon was the Official Opening of Parliament. Because it was near Westminster Abbey, the Abbey would be closed until 1pm. So, once all of the various guards and carriages (one held Princess Anne and another, the Prime Minister – Tony Blair) passed by, Mom and I continued down the way towards the Abbey and had some lunch at the Westminster Arms, which was near the Abbey. We ate upstairs, which is a very nice place for a good meal. The ground floor is strictly a pub and the lower level is a cool place with little blocked off areas for tables around the periphery and a very casual, pub grub kind of atmosphere.

After lunch we checked out the Field of Remembrance next to the Abbey (it had just been their version of Memorial Day shortly before we arrived in London) before visiting the Abbey itself. Afterwards we walked up to Buckingham Palace and then headed back to the hotel through Covent Garden. We stopped off at St Paul’s Covent Garden to pay our respects to the victims of the 1665 plague who are buried beneath the churchyard.

A meat market has existed in Smithfield since the 10^th century. In and of itself, that would not make the place interesting enough for a visit. But Smithfield is also where William Wallace and Wat Tyler were executed, the location of St Bartholomew the Great (the oldest intact church in London and where a pivotal scene took place in “Four Weddings & a Funeral”), the neighborhood of Cloth Fair (a group of houses that escaped the Great Fire of 1666), an area where legal brothels once thrived, and the location of the Old Bailey and the former Newgate Prison.

Newgate Prison was established in 1188 just south of Smithfield Market. It was a very notorious prison where people were held in a cramped, unsanitary and inhumane fashion. Prisoners were also charged for their food and bedding. The gallows were moved from near Marble Arch to just outside of the prison in 1783. Hangings were quite a spectacle for the public and continued until 1901, just three years before the prison was demolished.

Some of the more famous prisoners held at Newgate included Giacomo Casanova, author Daniel Defoe, playwright Ben Jonson, pirate William Kidd, and Pennsylvania founder William Penn.

In 1585, the Old Bailey (officially the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales) was established right next door to Newgate Prison. The current building was built in 1904 when the prison was torn down. Although people can watch trials, no cameras are allowed. You can’t even have one with you (so no mobile phones either). Since we had cameras with us, we weren’t allowed in. If I want to watch a trial in the future, I’ll just go over there on a day when that’s the only thing I plan to do and leave the camera (and phone) locked up back at the hotel. There are several shows that have  had scenes shot at the Old Bailey. One of my favorites is “The Escape Artist”, which was shown in the US on PBS as a Masterpiece Mystery.

A very short distance north of Old Bailey is St Bartholomew’s Hospital, which was founded in 1123 by a monk named Thomas Rahere. He was a favorite of King Henry I and also founded the church of St Bartholomew the Great, which is right by the hospital.

St Barts is still very much a working hospital and has been rebuilt and remodeled several times over the centuries. It does still have the Henry VIII Gate, which dates to Tudor times and has the only statue of King Henry VIII in London. There is also a plaque on the outside of the hospital facing Smithfield Market (and the little round park) that mentions that William Wallace was executed in 1305 nearby. According to what I understand, he was hanged, drawn and quartered (a very gruesome and painful way to die) at the little round park. He had been found guilty of treason because he had led an army against the King of England (Edward I). The film, “Braveheart”, was a highly fictionalized representation of his life (he wasn’t even the person called Braveheart — Robert the Bruce was). But he truly was a great Scottish hero.

Wat Tyler, the leader of the Peasant Revolt in 1381, was also executed in the same area. Not certain if it was closer to the meat market or to the hospital. It was also more of a rushed deal. Tyler and King Richard II (who was about 14 at the time) met at Smithfield to discuss an end to the Peasant Revolt. The King’s men weren’t happy with the way Tyler was behaving and attacked him. He was fatally wounded. Then they decapitated him and placed his head on a pole. Despite this, Richard was credited with the successful suppression of the crisis.

Next to the hospital is another Tudor gate. This one is of the half-timbered variety. Passing through this gate takes you into the grounds of the church of St Bartholomew the Great. The reason why this is the oldest intact church in London is because most of the rest of them have had to be restored or rebuilt due to fires or World War II bombs or both. Even the Temple Church, which managed to survive the Great Fire of 1666 ended up with bomb damage from WWII. Benjamin Franklin worked inside the church for a year as a journeyman printer when he was living in London.

Rahere, the fella who founded both the hospital and the church, is buried in the church. He also reportedly haunts the church. It seems that, in the 17^th century, while some repairs were being made to his tomb, someone removed a sandal from one of his feet. Eventually the sandal was returned to the church, but not replaced in his tomb on his foot. Apparently he is still peeved.

During the reign of Mary Tudor (Elizabeth I’s older sister), several executions of “heretics” took place in the environs of the church. They say that there are times when one can definitely smell the odor of burning flesh. I have been there on a couple of visits and have yet to encounter Rahere’s ghost or smell anything bad. Now that I’ve said that, I’ll probably get hit with them both on the next visit. The important “fourth wedding” in “Four Weddings & a Funeral” was filmed in St Barts as have scenes from several other films and TV shows.

Next door to the church, to the west, is Cloth Fair. In medieval times, merchants bought and sold cloth in the street during the Bartholomew Fair. The street contains the oldest house in London. Just as the church escaped the Great Fire, so did this little block of houses. A little bit of time traveling can be had here.

Nearby is Cock Lane. This was where, in medieval times, brothels were allowed to operate legally. The road is short and narrow as it was back then, but the buildings are not all original. So the only thing remaining from the medieval era is the street name.

After we were done exploring the area, we stopped off for some food at the Viaduct Tavern, across from the Old Bailey on Newgate Street. It is built over a portion of the Newgate Prison (roughly five cells in the cellar) and is supposedly quite haunted. If you ask nicely, you can go downstairs to see the cells from the prison. I did and found it pretty eerie down there. The person who worked there said they never go down there alone at night.

There are plans to move the Museum of London from its current location on the London Wall in the Barbican to Smithfield Market. The idea is to provide a much larger area for exhibits than what the current space contains without venturing too far from the current site.

On previous trips to London, we had never spent much time on the other side of the Thames. We might have popped across London Bridge to visit the Globe Theatre; or walked across the Tower Bridge and back again; or zipped across Westminster Bridge to visit the Florence Nightingale Museum; or visit the Imperial War Museum at the former Bedlam Hospital. So, during the trip in 2002, we decided to spend an entire day in Southwark, which is the area across London Bridge to the South, where the theatres, bear-baiting pits, brothels and coaching inns existed in Shakespeare’s day and the debtor’s prisons and operating theatre of St Thomas Hospital in Dickens’ day.

We took the underground to Borough Station. Marshalsea Road (named after Marshalsea Prison) was right there. Dickens’ parents were sent to Marshalsea when he was a boy. It was a debtor’s prison. Dickens used Marshalsea as the basis for the debtor’s prison in Little Dorrit. The debtor’s prisons did let people out of the prison during the day in order to go to work to repay their debt. But they also charged them for their room and board in the prison. So it could take a very long time for a family to earn their way out.

While his parents were in Marshalsea, Dickens was employed in a boot-blacking factory where the Charing Cross Rail Station is today on the other side of the Thames. That would have been a long walk for a twelve-year-old boy to make. So he mainly lived at the factory and would visit his parents once a week. Nothing is left of the prison other than a stretch of the wall that used to surround it and a plaque stating that’s where it used to be.

Heading up the Borough High Street towards London Bridge, are the remnants of several coaching inns — mainly their names and former locations. The Tabard was the inn from which Chaucer’s characters in The Canterbury Tales departed. That inn existed from the 1300s to the 1600s. When it burnt down, it was replaced by the Talbot, which was torn down in the 1800s.

Next door to where those inns were located is The George Inn, the only surviving galleried coaching inn in London. The original inn, the George and Dragon, burned down in the same fire as the Tabard and was rebuilt in 1677. That is the inn that exists today. Dickens spent some time there (in the coffee room in the middle of the ground floor) and also referred to it in Little Dorrit. In Shakespeare’s day, his plays and those of Ben Jonson and Christopher Marlowe were sometimes staged in the courtyards of coaching inns as the galleries made for great spaces from which more moneyed members of the audience could view a play.

The day we were there was lovely, warm, and not raining, so we purchased our food inside (in the former coffee room) and sat outside to eat it. Except for some cars parked in the courtyard, when looking at the inn itself, it did seem that we were transported back in time. Inside, the ceilings were low and the floor sloping and uneven.

We continued up the Borough High Street to St Thomas Street. St Thomas Hospital was first mentioned in 1215 and was named after St Thomas Beckett, the Archbishop of Canterbury who was martyred in 1173 during the time of King Henry II. Remember the story about Dick Whittington and his cat? He was a real person who, after he became Mayor of London, established a lying-in ward at St Thomas Hospital for unwed mothers in the 15^th century. The hospital was also the site of the printing of the first English Bible in 1537.

The hospital was moved to its current location across the river from Parliament in 1862. But the name of the street remained and a small piece of the hospital was left behind as well. Up in the attic of a medieval church that had been rebuilt at the end of the 17^th century, it was discovered in the 1950s that an old operating theatre from St Thomas Hospital still existed. It was created in 1822, before anesthetics or antiseptics existed and was used for operating on poor women, who would have had no other recourse to surgery other than as part of a teaching hospital.

The way into the place (which also includes an herb garret where dried opium was found among the herbs left behind when the operating theatre was rediscovered) is up some very steep, narrow turnpike stairs in a corner of the church. It is the oldest surviving operating theatre in the UK and includes a rather gruesome display of some of the surgical instruments that would have been used there.

From the Old Operating Theatre we went on to Southwark Cathedral. There are legends that the cathedral began as a nunnery in the 7^th century and/or a monastery in the 9^th century. But the first official reference to the property dates to the Doomesday Book in 1086. The oldest part of the existing building dates to 1106 with the main part of the church dating from 1220 to 1420.

William Shakespeare’s brother, Edmund, was buried in the church somewhere, but his grave is unmarked. There is a memorial to Shakespeare himself, showing him in a reclining position and holding a quill. Southwark was the parish church for Bankside and so would have been the main church for all of the actors and playwrights in the area. The church, originally named St Saviour and St Mary Overie (Overie meaning “over the river”),became a cathedral in 1905.

Not far from the cathedral, at St Mary Overie Dock on Cathedral Street, is a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship The Golden Hinde. This replica was built by traditional methods and sailed on a reenactment of Drake’s 1577 circumnavigation of the world. She has been used in a few films too. On this visit, there was a private children’s party onboard, so we didn’t get to go on it. Another time, perhaps.

A short walk from the ship is The Clink. This was a prison (actually two prisons — one for men and one for women) which was part of the Palace of the Bishop of Winchester from 1144 to 1780. The current museum is on the site of the original men’s prison and advertises itself as the prison after which all other prisons were named — as in the expression “thrown in the clink.” The Bishop could have a person locked up for pretty much any reason he wanted, and he did. When touring the place, I couldn’t help noticing that the majority of torture devices were designed specifically to torture women. The Bishop had a whole brothel business going on the side and sometimes used the women’s part of the prison to keep his women in line. Lovely guy.

Along Park Street, the locations of both The Rose Theatre and the original Globe Theatre can be found. The Rose has been largely excavated in the basement of a modern building. That’s because they discovered it when digging the foundations for the new building. The choice was made to preserve the theatre while still building the new structure above it. The Globe, on the other hand, is largely underneath a listed building (which means the building it is under is historic and cannot be altered). So there is a marking in the car park behind the building, showing the outline of one of the walls beneath. This is just steps from The Rose. It is also a fairly short distance from the reproduction of The Globe. So the replica is as close to the original in distance as it can be under the circumstances.

Before heading back to the hotel we stopped in at the Anchor Inn. It is right on the river and has a great terrace from which you can watch the river traffic while having a nice meal and/or a pint. People have been doing so from that location for over 800 years, although the present building has only been there since 1676 (replacing one destroyed by fire). With its proximity to the theatres, it would seem most likely that Shakespeare and his pals would have gone there for a drink and/or a meal after a long day of rehearsals or performing.