Our first morning docked at Caudebec-en-Caux was spent along the “Abbey Road” visiting two medieval abbeys. The first one, St Wandrille de Fontenelle, was still housing Benedictine monks.
Founded in the 7th century, it was one of the first Benedictine abbeys in Normandy. It was very successful at first, but began to decline around in the 8th and early 9th centuries until the monastery was burnt down by the Vikings in 852. The monks fled with the relics of Saint Wandrille.
After about a century in “temporary” accommodation, the monks returned in 966 and began to rebuild. Decline came again in the 16th century and the monastery was closed and sold during the French Revolution.
The monastic community had, over the centuries, attained a reputation for the learning of the monks. The library collection was celebrated and the school was renowned for the teaching of letters, fine arts, the sciences and calligraphy. The current monastic community has been, since 1894, carrying on this reputation through publishing, microfilming, and painting restoration.
In addition to the arts, Saint Wandrille has been famous for brewing beer. In the 8th century, it was one of the first ever to use hops in the brewing of beer. The monastery still brews beer and has it for sale in its shop.
Brother Lucien met us in the village square and escorted us into the abbey through its main gate, also known as the Pelican Gate. This area mostly dated to the 18th century and formed the space set aside for the monks. Brother Lucien did not speak English, so our local guide translated. After a basic history of the abbey, we were taken into the cloisters where we were shown the reconstruction projects that were being worked on.
The remains of the 14th century abbey church were right next to the cloisters. Back in 1969, a 13th century barn was moved onto the abbey property and converted into the current abbey church. Inside of the church is a reliquary containing the skull of Saint Wandrille.
A short distance from the abbey church was a cemetery, including many of the brotherhood who had died throughout the centuries. Recent to our visit in September 2021, were the graves of three victims of the COVID-19 pandemic.
When St Wandrille was constructing the abbey back in the 7th century, he built seven other churches both inside and outside of the monastery enclosure. Most of these were either destroyed, replaced by newer versions or simply fell into ruin over time. The exception was the chapel of St Saturnin. Although occasionally restored over the centuries, it has remained largely as it was originally built. It stands on a hillside overlooking the abbey and is considered to be a unique example of a 7th century chapel.
I found Brother Lucien to be absolutely fascinating. His love for the abbey was evident. He had taken note of my cane (he used one too) and often gave me his hand to help me up or down a steep grouping of steps. He just exuded kindness.
Next time – we continue along the “Abbey Road” to Jumieges Abbey.
