The Baltics: Lithuania

Once we crossed the border from Poland to Lithuania, we were officially in one of the Baltic States (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia). We had skirted around a tip of Belarus. Andrej told us that Belarus was not part of the European Union and had a pretty intense and expensive process for entry. So we waved as we went by.

Amber was an extremely valuable commodity throughout most of the history of the Baltic States. This made the area very wealthy and very desirable for conquer by others. In the 13^th century, Lithuania formed the Kingdom of Lithuania and became the largest state in Europe by the 14^th century as the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Present-day Lithuania, Belarus, Ukraine, and parts of Poland and Russia were the territories of the Grand Duchy. In the 16^th century, Lithuania and Poland formed a Commonwealth that was dismantled in the 18^th century.

During World War II, all three Baltic States changed hands between the Soviet Republic and Nazi Germany several times and become part of the Soviet Union after the war. Lithuania declared its independence in 1990 – a year before the dissolution of the Soviet Union. At one point, the Soviets rolled into Vilnius (the capitol city) in tanks, shooting and crushing unarmed Lithuanians.

According to legend, in the 14^th century, Grand Duke Gediminas was out hunting near the Vilnia River and had a dream about a wolf howling up on a nearby hill. The dream was interpreted as meaning that he should create his new capitol at that location. So he built a castle and created the city of Vilnius.

Our first visit was to the Church of St Peter & St Paul, which was a 17^th century Baroque masterpiece with an amazing chandelier shaped like a boat. This represented St Peter as a fisherman. The altar was missing. It was moved to another church and ended up being destroyed while in its new location. It was never replaced.

On our way from the Church of St Peter & St Paul to the Gate of Dawn, we passed the Hill of Crosses. Andrej told us that the first people to try to convert the pagans to Christianity were executed on that hill. Once the Lithuanians were Christianized, they began to place crosses there. During the Soviet Occupation, the number of crosses began to surge. So now, thousands (over 100,000 have been estimated) of crosses are clustered on the hill.

We entered one part of the town through the Gate of Dawn, built in the 16^th century. Above the gate is the chapel of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn, which contains an icon of the Virgin Mary that is said to have miraculous powers. Visitors weren’t allowed, but I was able to zoom in with my camera and get a fairly decent photo of the icon through the window.

Not far from there was a beautiful peach-colored church built in the 17^th century and dedicated to St Casimir. We walked as far as the Town Hall and then headed back to the Gate of Dawn to get on the tour coach to visit the castle that Grand Duke Gediminas built. It looked very modern and had a very interesting and modern-looking statue of Gediminas himself. The castle was white with black trim and the statue was black.

On the same square as the castle was the Cathedral and a tower that we came back to after lunch to visit. In the meantime, we went to the Presidential Palace and by the University.

Heike, Debbie and I decided to have lunch at a traditional Lithuanian restaurant that wasn’t too far from the Cathedral Square. It was very old and very cozy. The food was homemade and delicious.

Back at the Cathedral, the main attraction was the chapel dedicated to St Casimir. It was gorgeous, with loads of marble and eight statues of rulers of Lithuania plated in silver. It also contained St Casimir’s tomb, which had a marble altar with a silver sarcophagus on the wall above.

On Lake Galve outside of Vilnius was Trakai Castle. This was the residence of the Dukes of Lithuania prior to Duke Gediminas moving the capitol to Vilnius. It covers an entire island on the lake. After a guided tour, we had loads of free time to explore. Although built on an island, the castle was a sprawling place with several courtyards and buildings. It was built in a combination of stone and brick. Parts had been rebuilt over the centuries after various battles and after World War II. As we were leaving, a storm was gathering and I managed to get a pretty good shot of a sailboat going by with the castle silhouetted against the darkening sky.

Back in Vilnius, we went to a Lithuanian Dinner and Folklore Show that night. It was a very good meal, but not much of a show. The building it was in was quite old, so had a great atmosphere.

I was really looking forward to heading to Latvia the next day as the parents of one of my sisters-in-law were from Latvia.