April 2019 – A Traveling Fool

April 28, 2019April 28, 2019

From Aphrodisias to Konya

Aphrodisias dates to 5800 BC, but wasn’t dedicated to Aphrodite until the 2^nd century BC. As an archeological site, it’s pretty cool as quite a bit of it is relatively intact despite having been largely abandoned after a major earthquake in the 7^th century AD. The area it is in is highly earthquake prone.

The first structure we came to was the Tetrapylon (gate), built roughly 200 AD, which I thought was quite beautiful. At the center of town was a large temple. It had been dedicated to a goddess of fertility back when it was originally built in the 7^th century BC, but was later enlarged and dedicated to Aphrodite in the 2^nd century BC. By the 5^th century AD, the temple was converted into a church and remained so until the earthquake that destroyed most of the town.

The Odeon was a lecture hall that seated about 1,750 when completely intact. Now it has its first nine rows up from the stage, but the rest is in ruins. The Stadium is one of the best preserved in the Mediterranean. It was used strictly for sporting events until after the 7^th century AD earthquake when the theatre was badly damaged. Then a stage was added to the stadium so plays could be performed there. The arena was always too narrow for chariot races.

We visited several other structures including a bath house, an agora (market), and the museum containing several statues and other artifacts before heading for Pamukkale. The name Pamukkale means “cotton castle”. The white terraces of travertine are created from hot springs. At the time I was there, people were allowed to walk on portions of the travertine as long as they did so with bare feet. Currently it isn’t allowed at all as it has been decided that it causes too much damage.

Adjacent to Pamukkale is what remains of the ancient city of Hierapolis which sits on hot springs in the classical kingdom of Phrygia in southwestern Anatolia. Founded in the 2^nd century BC by King Eumenes II of Pergamon as a thermal spa center, Hierapolis quickly became a healing center. The Greek king Antiochus III the Great, relocated roughly 2,000 Jewish families from Babylon and Mesopotamia to Hierapolis (which means “Holy City”). The population grew to about 50,000 by 62 BC.

After a couple of nasty earthquakes in 17 AD and 30 AD, much of the Greek city was destroyed. It was rebuilt in the Roman style. Hierapolis had been ceded to Rome in 133 BC.

St Phillip (the disciple) was martyred there in 80 AD, during the reign of Titus. He was crucified upside down as he claimed he wasn’t worthy of being crucified in the same manner as Jesus. In 2011, a few months after my trip, his tomb was discovered just outside of Hierapolis, not too far from where he had been martyred.

After entering the site, one of the first structures we encountered was the gymnasium. The word “gymnos” actually means “naked”. This was because the early sporting events and competitions were performed in the nude.

The theatre (dating from some time after the 60 AD earthquake) was in pretty good shape and still seats about 15,000. We were up on the area at the top of the theatre, behind it, when a woman who had been pushing her grown daughter in a wheelchair, turned away from the wheelchair momentarily without setting the brakes. The chair took off towards the low stone wall behind the theatre. The mother and the others with her didn’t notice, but I did and I ran towards it, grabbing a hold a few feet from the wall. The mother and her friends had noticed by this time and arrived shortly after I stopped the chair and set its brakes. Whew! What possibly could have been an unpleasant accident averted!

I was out of breath (running is not something I do often – especially not uphill), so I entered the theatre and sat down for a bit to catch my breath. The photo I have included with this post was taken from that perspective.

In the 7^th century AD another destructive earthquake took place. This toppled several columns into a large, ancient thermal pool. They are still there as part of the pool. The pool has sometimes been associated with the Temple of Apollo and has often been touted as a location where Cleopatra once bathed. Some of us chose to have an afternoon break poolside.

Our hotel was in Pamakkale and it also had a thermal pool, which was very relaxing after a long, strenuous day. I slept well that night.

The next morning we set out for Konya. During our mid-morning break, we were served a thick yogurt with honey and hashish (which, in small amounts, was legal in Turkey as of 2011). It was sprinkled with hashish – not enough for getting high.

Konya was once called Iconium and has been inhabited since about 3000 BC. The name of the town was changed to Konya in about 1134 AD. It is a very strict, conservative Muslim community and is also the main home of the Whirling Dervishes. The hotel was easy walking distance from the Mevlana Museum (the Museum of the Whirling Dervish).

The Whirling Dervishes (also known as the Mevlevi or Sufi) are an order who celebrate their love of Allah by spinning around in a dance called the Sama. They spin on their left foot with their right palm facing up towards Heaven and their left hand pointing at the ground. We had not yet seen one of these ceremonies at this point.

Although I had been just fine during the rest of the tour, in Konya I appeared to stand out way too much because of my coloring. On the way into the museum (out in the courtyard area) a couple of women grabbed the braid I was wearing down the center of my back. Apparently they had the need to find out what my hair felt like. I was quite startled.

After touring the museum (which dates to 1274), I walked around outside of the building looking at the graves when I was confronted by two couples. The men were dressed very conservatively and the women were covered from head to toe in layers of black cloth – a burka. As soon as they saw me, the men placed themselves directly in my path and began to shout something at me that I could not understand. I responded that I was sorry, but did not understand and attempted to get past them. The one man and both women left, but the other man stayed and gave me a good shove (that he made certain no one else saw) before he too left. Shaken, I headed back to the hotel immediately and stayed there. Fortunately, this was the only time I was treated badly the entire trip.

Next time – Cappadocia.

Aphrodisias Tetrapylon
Temple of Aphrodite
Odeon
Stadium
Bath House
Agora
Pamukkale (location where I was standing)
Pamukkale
Entrance to Hierapolis
Gymnasium
Theatre at Hierapolis
Ancient Thermal Pool
Entrance to Museum of the Whirling Dervish
Whirling Dervish Graves

April 22, 2019April 22, 2019

Ephesus

Ephesus was originally a Greek city built around the 10^th century BC on the site of an earlier Hittite city dedicated to the worship of Cybele, the Anatolian mother goddess. Cybele (or Kybele) and the Greek goddess, Artemis, were combined to create Artemis of Ephesus. There is a statue of her in the Commercial Agora (main marketplace) next to the Library of Celsus.

One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis (completed roughly 550 BC), was located just outside of Ephesus. Ephesus was destroyed by the Goths in 263 AD, rebuilt, and then partially destroyed by an earthquake in 614 AD.

What mainly exists now is the 4^th century BC city of Alexander the Great’s successor, Lysinachus. Only about 20 to 30 percent of the actual city has been excavated as of yet. For the most part, the Roman remains are in the best shape. Marc Anthony and Cleopatra visited Ephesus back in 33 BC.

The city has lots of Christian associations. The Apostle Paul lived in Ephesus from 52 to 54 AD. He lived just behind the Library of Celsus and attended a synagogue that was close by until he started a church. He wrote the book of Corinthians while he was living in Ephesus and wrote the letters to the Ephesians after he was imprisoned in Rome. He also preached in the 25,000 seat theatre, which is mostly intact.

The disciple, John, was thought to have brought Mary, the Mother of Jesus to Ephesus in 37 AD to live out the remainder of her life. The restored house is up a mountain about five miles outside of the city.

The tomb of John is located at the Basilica of Saint John which was constructed by Emperor Justinian I in the 6^th century AD. The ruins of the Basilica stand up a hill not too far from the remains of the Temple of Artemis.

At Ephesus, our tour started with the Baths of Varius. We could see the water pipes that brought water to several of the Roman baths and throughout the city. Next we visited the Odeon, which was once a roofed meeting hall.

Coming down the hill towards the main part of the city, we arrived at a square with both physician and pharmacist symbols on the gate. There too were the remains of the Temple of Domitian. Soon we had our first glimpse of the Library of Celsus shortly before reaching the Gate of Hercules and another bathhouse and privy.

The Temple of Hadrian dates from the 2^nd century and was repaired in the 4^th century. What remains of the temple is very graceful looking with a delicate curved arch in the middle. Hadrian was a busy guy, building walls, triumphal arches, aqueducts, temples and other structures all over the Roman Empire.

The remains of the Library of Celsus are gorgeous. The four statues on the façade represent Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intellect), and Episteme (knowledge). The library, built in 125 AD, was funded by Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, Governor of Roman Asia. His son was the one who had it built and Celsus himself was buried in a sarcophagus beneath the building. With its reading rooms facing the East to catch the early morning light, the library originally held about 12,000 scrolls.

If you exit the library to the area in front of it and go to your left, you will find the Commercial Agora (the main marketplace). There are statues in the niches. One of the most important is the statue of Artemis (the Roman goddess Diana) of Ephesus.

The street in front of the library is made of marble and leads to the theatre, which is considered to be the largest Roman Theatre in existence. Although it was mainly used for theatrical presentations, it was also used for some gladiatorial exhibitions in the later Roman period. A graveyard for gladiators has been discovered nearby.

After leaving Ephesus, we drove up a nearby mountain to visit Mary’s house. The room in which she lived is off to the side of a small chapel. There is also a baptismal pool on the property.

Coming down the mountain, at the edge of the modern town of Selcuk, we stopped off to see the remains (mainly one tall column with some scattered smaller pieces) of the Temple of Artemus. The temple took about 120 years to build and was enormous and beautiful. It was destroyed by a flood in the 7^th century BC. The area around it is still a pond.

The remains of the Basilica of St John are visible from the location of the temple. A 14^th century mosque can also be seen as well as a medieval castle fortress on the top of a nearby mountain.

That evening, about half of our group walked down to the harbor and had dinner at a very homey restaurant. We sat out in the front yard under a large canopy. I didn’t record in my journal what we ate. By the time we made it back up to the hotel, we needed to head straight to bed due to an early departure time in the morning. I do remember that we ordered several different dishes and shared them. It was mainly sea food. We had a great time and definitely worked off the dinner and the wine on the climb back up the steep road from the harbor to the hotel.

We spent the next couple of days exploring Aphrodisias, Parmukkale, Hierapolis, and Konya.

Baths of Varius
Water pipes
Odeon
Temple of Domitian
Looking down the street towards the Library of Celsus
Gate of Hercules
Temple of Hadrian
Library of Celsus
From inside the library
Artemis of Ephesus
Commercial Agora
Library from another angle
Theatre
Beneath the stage at the theatre
Mary’s House
Temple of Artemis with Basilica of St John upper left
View of Kasudasi from hotel room

April 14, 2019April 14, 2019

Troy

Troy, the site of the Trojan War back in roughly 1184 BC, was thought to have been a mythical place as portrayed by Homer in The Iliad. But it was a real city. Its location was first identified in 1822. But it wasn’t until 1868 that the first archeologist began excavations. There are nine levels. The seventh is thought to be the one from the period Homer wrote about.

We could see the walls and the remains of one of the towers. We could also walk through the corridor to the gate, which was at a hairpin turn to prevent the enemy from attacking with a battering ram. Shortly after entering the gate, we could climb to the remains (mostly just the floor) of the Temple of Athena.

The Trojan War was fought against Troy by the Greeks when Paris of Troy (son of King Priam) took Helen from her husband, Menelaus, King of Sparta. Menelaus’ brother was Agamemnon, King of Mycenae. He took the lead in the siege of Troy.

Troy is now considered to be much, much larger than what has so far been excavated. What they have uncovered is thought to be the citadel within the larger city. It is also thought that the Trojan Horse was likely taken up a ramp into the citadel and not through the gate.

We explored several of the levels, including a theatre (Roman) at the 9^th level. One of the women with whom I hung out the most and I climbed up a hill that overlooked the remains of the corridor and gate so we could get some more photos before we needed to leave the site. Under that hill is likely even more of Troy.

It was such an exciting place to be since I had heard about it all my life. Though some distance from the sea now, it was right next to it back in its day.

After leaving Troy, we drove along the Bay of Edremit, from where we could see the Greek Island of Lesbos. According to Homer, Lesbos was once part of the kingdom of Priam, the King of Troy.

We had lunch at Bergama, which was once Pergamon. The current city of Bergama is known for its carpets.

In the afternoon, we stopped off at Izmir, which is also known as Smyrna. The origins of Smyrna date to the 3^rd millennium BC, but the city was destroyed in the 7^th century BC. Then Alexander the Great came along. He wanted to restore the city after having a dream while sleeping on a nearby mountain. He founded his new city of Smyrna on the side of the mountain.

We spent the night at Kusadasi from which we explored Ephesus the next day.

Trojan Horse at Troy
Remains of tower
Corridor to gate
View from Athenian temple
1st excavation
View of some of the levels
The ramp
Another view
Roman theatre
More of Troy
A different view of Troy
The gate and corridor viewed from the opposite hill
Izmir/Smyrna

April 7, 2019April 7, 2019

Istanbul & Gallipoli

When the person behind the desk at the airport asked me where I was going, I was really tickled to be able to say “Istanbul”. It had always seemed like such an exotic, mysterious place. Partially in Europe and partially in Asia, it was once Constantinople. Before that, it was Byzantium. It has Egyptian obelisks, a Roman hippodrome, very early Christian structures, and Ottoman mosques. It also has a royal palace with a completely intact harem. Then, there is the train station for the Orient Express. Someday I would love to take the trip from Istanbul to Venice.

The hotel was on the Asian side of the Bosphorus overlooking the Golden Horn and near the Galata Bridge. A deep, natural harbor, the Golden Horn has been the main military port of Istanbul back as far as the 7^th century BC. I could see the Suleymaniye Mosque (Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent), on the other side of the Bosphorus, from my hotel room.

After taking a few photos from my hotel room window, I set out to explore the area (which was called Galata) around the hotel. It was a grey day, but the city itself was colorful.

That evening I met the Tour Director and my fellow travelers. We had 41 people on the tour. Only a couple of us were from the US. Most were from Canada, the UK and Australia.

We were returning to Istanbul later in the tour to explore the city in detail. So the next morning, we crossed the Galata Bridge to the European side, looked around a bit and then left Istanbul, driving along the Sea of Marmara on the European side of the Dardanelles. We were headed to Gallipoli.

During World War I, a large battle took place between the Ottoman Empire (supported by Germany and Austria-Hungary) and the British Empire (Australia, India, Newfoundland, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom), supported by France and Russia on the Gallipoli Peninsula. It was a major Ottoman victory and a horrible defeat for the British Empire and its Allies (302,000 casualties). It was an absolute massacre.

We started off at Anzac Cove, one of the main battlefields. Just above the cove is a rock formation called “the Sphinx”. Next was the Mehmetcik Memorial, which depicts a Turkish soldier carrying a British soldier. Then we visited the cemetery and the Lone Pine Memorial to the Australians who died at Gallipoli.

The main memorial included a statue of Ataturk (1^st President of the Republic) and some of the battle trenches. A memorial to New Zealand was near the Ataturk Memorial. There is a pretty good film about it called “Gallipoli” released in 1981. I was quite moved by the film when I saw it several years before visiting Turkey.

When we were done exploring the battlegrounds, trenches, cemetery and memorials, we took a ferry from Kilye Bay on the European side of the Dardanelles to Canakkale on the Asia Minor side. Canakkale is the nearest major town to Troy. The Trojan Horse used in the 2004 film “Troy” greets those who arrive by ferry.

We spent the night at a resort hotel on the water. There were some huge rabbits hanging out on the property. Much larger than the bunnies I usually have on my property at home.

I had what I thought was a really interesting bathtub in my room. It was quite compact and you basically sat on a seat and used a hand-held shower. It worked well for a seated shower, but wouldn’t have worked at all for a bubble bath.

We spent the next day stepping way back in time while exploring Troy!