Crossing the Danube and entering Romania from Bulgaria brought us into the town of Giurgiu. From there, we headed to Bucharest. Romania became a country in 1859, when the principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia were united by Alexandru Ioan Cuza. Transylvania, which had been part of Hungary, didn’t become part of Romania until after World War I. The original inhabitants of Romania were the Dacians.
Giurgiu and Bucharest are part of Wallachia. Three different times in the 15th century, the Prince of Wallachia was a fella named Vlad Dracula (aka Vlad the Impaler or Vlad Tepes). Vlad’s dad was Vlad Dracul (Dracul meaning “the dragon”), so Vlad junior became Vlad Dracula, (Dracula meaning “son of the dragon”). Part of the premise of The Historian is that the fictional character of Dracula and the historical person Vlad Dracula are one and the same.
The historical Vlad was killed in battle back in 1476/1477. He had supposedly been buried in a tomb he had built in the Monastery of Snagov. However, excavations in 1933 discovered that the tomb was empty (which would go well with the idea of Vlad being the famous vampire). Then a theory was put forward that he was instead buried at the Comana Monastery (which he had also established) and is closer to where he was killed. In the 1970s, a headless body was discovered there that could possibly be Vlad. He had been beheaded at the time of his death. That would keep him from roaming around after death as beheading works as well for a vampire as a stake through the heart.
Comana Monastery is not mentioned in the novel, but is located in Giurgiu, the first town we encountered upon entering Romania. When we got to Bucharest we came in via the old town, including the Old Fortress, Curtea Veche. This was the palace of the Princes of Wallachia in Bucharest. Vlad Dracula ruled from there before he moved his capitol to Targoviste. He also had a massive castle at Poenari, just north of Curtea de Arges (which was also a capitol of Wallachia at one time). He spent a lot of time there between 1459 and 1462. In 1462, it was besieged by the Turks. Vlad escaped through a secret passage, but his wife leapt to her death instead of allowing the Turks to capture her. Both Curtea Veche and Poenari are in ruins. There is talk about restoring Curtea Veche.
It must have been confusing for Wallachians to have their capitol constantly moving from Curtea de Arges to Bucharest to Targoviste. Our tour zeroed in on Bucharest, which became the capitol of the entire country of Romania.
By the time we got to Bucharest, Sue from Wales, Dot & Barbara from Australia, and I had bonded. So we ventured around in Bucharest together when we had free time. Bucharest modeled itself on Paris and even has its own Arc de Triomphe (though much smaller than the original). We had a rather whirlwind tour of the city prior to our lunch break. Where we were dropped off was near some of the landmarks we had zipped past earlier plus we had a pretty decent amount of time. So we ate fairly quickly at an outdoor café and set off with our cameras to cover as much ground as possible and be back to our meeting place on time.
At the café, we encountered both stray dogs and Roma children. The very large number of stray dogs (which are feral and dangerous) are descendants of dogs that lost their homes when their families were forcibly moved from their villages into urban apartment blocks, to work in factories, during the Communist era.
There is a fairly large Roma (formerly referred to as Gypsies) population throughout Romania. Some of the Roma are quite wealthy and have mansions in villages that are mainly Roma. But a large number are very poor and the children openly beg, especially in Bucharest.
Romania also has very large communities of Saxons (Germans) and Hungarians. These communities, despite having Romanian citizenship, keep themselves separate from one another and the overall Romanian population. Our Tour Director, Zsuzsa, told us that her family (who live in Transylvania) still considers themselves Hungarian, not Romanian. The Hungarians go to Hungarian schools and the Saxons go to German schools.
The Romanian Athenaeum, a 19th century concert hall was the closest to the café. We then set off for the Central Committee Building in Revolution Square, which had been the Headquarters of the Communist Party. On the 21st of December in 1989, Nicolae Ceauşescu, the communist dictator of Romania, had the military fire upon the people who were protesting in the square. Over 1033 were killed. The next day, he and his wife fled by helicopter from the roof of the Central Committee Building. They were captured at Targoviste and were executed by firing squad on December 25th.
On our way to the People’s Palace (which was built by Ceauşescu) for a tour of the interior, we went by the Military Academy. The People’s Palace (the Romanian Parliament) is the second largest building in the world (after the US Pentagon). It has 3,100 rooms and covers 12 stories over 365,000 square metres (3,930,000 square feet). Some of those 3,100 rooms are mighty large. There was one that I figured could hold my entire neighborhood. The balcony (which, all by itself, is bigger than my house) was where Michael Jackson famously greeted the crowd with “Hello Budapest!”
After the tour, we drove along the Romanian version of the Champs Elysees, with its lovely fountains, and past a statue of Romania’s founder, Alexandru Ioan Cuza, to reach the complex containing the Patriarchal Church, the Church of Bucur the Shepherd, and the Prince Radu Monastery. All three buildings resemble each other enough that I had a difficult time telling them apart when trying to identify the photos later.
The Patriarchal Church was built between 1655 and 1659 and is quite beautiful inside. There was a service going on, but we could take photos as long as we didn’t use flash. No problem. The Church of Bucur the Shepherd was named for the founder of Bucharest. Some people believe the church was built by Bucur himself (date unknown), while others feel it was built in the 15th century, and still others that it was built in the 17th century (not too long before the Patriarchal Church). It was rebuilt in the 18th century, which further complicates matters.
The Prince Radu Monastery was founded in the 16th century on land that has been in use by humans for thousands of years. Supposedly, it was founded in the name of Vlad Dracula’s younger brother. But, since that particular Prince Radu (Radu Cel Frumos) converted to Islam while he and Vlad were being held in Turkey when they were children, that doesn’t seem to make much sense. A later Prince Radu (a direct descendent of Vlad’s named Radu Voda Mihnea) is the more likely candidate. He lived in the 17th century, which was after the monastery was founded, but had the monastery reconstructed on its original foundations (after it had been blown up by the Turks) while he was Prince of Wallachia. This might have caused it to be renamed for him with the original name lost in time.
Back in the 1930s several Romanian peasant houses, barns, churches and other buildings were moved from all over the country to the National Village Museum on the shores of Herăstră Lake. This was our last visit in Bucharest. We were given maps of the open air museum and a time to be back at the entrance. Then we all went exploring. It was a fascinating place. Each building had information regarding where it was from, the time period and the purpose.
Once we got back to the hotel, which was connected to a small shopping mall, we still had time to exchange some money. There are some countries (and Romania was one at that time) that don’t use credit cards much or where it can be risky to use one (Egypt was in that category). So Sue and I exchanged some of our own currencies me USD, her GBP) for Romanian Lei as we both wanted to buy some souvenirs when we got to Transylvania.
We ran into Manny and Jane (also from the UK) having ice cream and joined them. We were soon joined in turn by Hillary. For just 12 Romanian Lei (4 USD), we could get three scoops of ice cream in a chocolate-lined cone bowl. We were on our own for dinner that night, so we had our ice cream and then stopped in at a sandwich shop to get sandwiches and drinks to take back to our rooms.
The next morning, we left Wallachia and entered Transylvania.
